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Yes another no start issue, tis the season

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  • Yes another no start issue, tis the season

    In 10 yrs never has an issue until this past weekend. Its an 87NA. It stalled then wouldn't start until the next day, but then ran fine. Next day wouldn't start, then 4 hours later started and ran fine. Since then cannot start. What I did so far.

    Fuel pump primes when key is turned cranks but no start.
    Added starter fluid in TB and it kicks over but no start, so I assume I have spark, but not sure how the CAS plays into this,
    Changed EFI relay
    checked CHTS all good
    Checked FPR all good
    Hooked up fuel pump directly to battery and would crank but not start, so still no fuel. plugged filter?, pump shot?, again not sure how CAS plays into this.
    replaced rotor, wires and plugs less then 1000 miles on NGK's. Just as an FYI , I did Tbelt, tensioner , stud less then 1000 miles ago and belt is not broke

    Only code is 41 fuel temp which I think is meaningless. When the cars runs its runs great, no idle issues, sputtering, bogging etc

    I know people say remove the distributor the check CAS firing of the injectors, but with the results I have is this still necessary? Does the CAS prevent fuel pump to operate when cranking? I'm concerned I would get it back in correctly. Otherwise my next step is change fuel filter and check pressure. Any advise is appreciated

  • #2
    Sounds like a MAF or PTU problem. Also check all of the engine harness grounds. There's some on the back of the intake plenum and I think on the right side strut tower by the a/c drier.
    Shiro #443

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    • #3
      Always a good idea to have a spare dizzy, plug wire and spark plug. With that I can check injector firing and spark in less than a minute. Could be the coil as well.
      Cha iro

      enjoy building it yourself.
      if it fails, fuck it.
      at least you gave it a whirl.

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      • #4
        I did check the coil, A little low on high volt side, I think it was 8.5K. but it also was like 40 deg out and I think temp influences the results. I have spare wires and plugs, no dizzy, how can I check injectors? The FSM has a way to test the CAS pulse but you need a pulse probe or something like that? I do plan on pulling the dizzy tomorrow and then fuel pressure next. Just trying to avoid chasing BS which creates more work. My thoughts are injectors are not firing since with the pump wired direct not even show a slight hint of starting, which I think would have to be really low pressure or none. Like I mentioned when it worked it was perfect, then when it doesn't there is no signs of life until I use starter fluid.

        With spark using starting fluid doesn't that say I have everything up to plugs, just no fuel? PTU was upgraded to prw2 but I did swap a known good one with same results.

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        • #5
          Pull the dizzy and spin it by hand, you should hear the injectors clicking. You can also connect a spark plug to the dizzy and watch for spark as you spin it.
          Cha iro

          enjoy building it yourself.
          if it fails, fuck it.
          at least you gave it a whirl.

          Comment


          • #6
            Visco let us know how it works out, I intermittently have the same problem, she doesn't want to start but once fired off runs like a champ.. No codes. It does seem to happen less if I turn the key to run and let the fuel pump run until it shuts off then start. Other then checking codes, and listening for the fuel pump, I have yet to put much effort into it.
            Who needs new car's, Nissan had it right 30 years ago!!!

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            • #7
              I pulled the distributor today and rotated the shaft with the key on and no injector tick. I also checked to make sure I had power to ECU and CAS which I did. So this points to the CAS. However is there away to verify or isolate the CAS from any possible issues with a bad ECU that processes that signal?. I don't have a logic probe (FSM term whatever that is) to test the pins at ECU. Do I just roll the dice and buy a new CAS? Thanks for the help guys

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              • #8
                Its alive again. CAS replacement worked, first click its starts like it use to. Had to adjust timing a little but purring like it should. Thanks for all the help. I did have to mess with CAS fitment which caused me to crack the housing but I JBwelded and it seems fine. The trigger disc would not clear the mounting screw in the front right position. I filed off the tab/pin on the base and it appears to have fixed that issue.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by visco1
                  Its alive again. CAS replacement worked, first click its starts like it use to. Had to adjust timing a little but purring like it should. Thanks for all the help. I did have to mess with CAS fitment which caused me to crack the housing but I JBwelded and it seems fine. The trigger disc would not clear the mounting screw in the front right position. I filed off the tab/pin on the base and it appears to have fixed that issue.
                  Replacing the whole distributor includes the CAS right? im getting a no spark issue and replaced the whole distributor thinking the CAS is inside right?

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                  • #10
                    Yes the CAS is inside the distributor. In an post earlier in this thread you can test the CAS by removing distributor and spinning shaft with the key on to listen for injectors firing.

                    Since they sell new units or maybe a JY find its not difficult to change out if you know that's the issue.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rick88ss View Post
                      Sounds like a MAF or PTU problem. Also check all of the engine harness grounds. There's some on the back of the intake plenum and I think on the right side strut tower by the a/c drier.
                      I meant CAS but I wrote MAF. Really I did. ��
                      good to hear it's fixed
                      Shiro #443

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