Running a hard wire from the battery to the fuel pump. Have an inline fuse for protection. Have a bosch 044, after probably a year of light use the inline fuse melted to the fuse. Very hot when I run it, the normal hot wire itself is not. Going to replace it and see how it goes but has anyone else experienced this and how did you fix it. Last thing I want is an electrical fire.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Fuel pump re-wire
Collapse
X
-
Also did you reuse the stock fuel pump wiring on the OE fuel pump cage? The terminals on top very often corrode and produce an unacceptable amount of resistance. From what I recall the 044 pump *shouldn't* pull more than like 12 amps (don't quote me on that, but it wasn't a ton of amperage IIRC)
Comment
-
I'm assuming you were drawing straight from the battery?
I ran the exact set-up, but switched over to ECU to trip the hot side of the relay - don't really fancy burning to death in a roll over.
Never had a problem, but you can go to a smaller gauge wire safely.
Assume it was a junk fuse.. or check your ground points, it needs to be raw metal.
Comment
-
Originally posted by G-E View PostIf you switch the ground with a relay, it shouldn't heat up as much as doing on the hot side...Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
Comment
-
You need the heavy gauge wire for the main hot to the pump, because that's what normally burns out with the high-draw newer pumps, what you don't need to do is upgrade the ground
The OLD hot can power the relay, so you get power to that as normal, and you reallocate the old pump ground to the relay switch ground, which is still controlled by the ecu -- this disabled the ecu from varying voltage to the pump, but still controls the on/off
You can ground the pump through the relay to the chassis if you have a good spot in the back, or run a ground wire back up to the front, probably to a nexus of grounding points like the firewall
Comment
Comment