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  • upgraded suspension

    Usually the camber will be a little off in the rear when you put on aftermarket springs, or even stock for that matter. Most people perform this camber mod with good results - http://z31.com/suspension/rearcamber.shtml .

    You may want to re-do all the bushings while you are back there as I am sure the original ones are worn and pretty much useless. MSA ( http://www.zcarparts.com ) makes a complete poly kit. You can also buy the poly rear x-member bushings from them.

    Since you have an 86 turbo, you would need turbo struts/shocks with the correct mounts. I believe the HP's you are referring to will only work with NA models. Tockico illumina's (5 way adj.) work on turbo models. I never heard of anything on H&R springs. Look here for spring rate info - http://z31.com/springsshocks.shtml

  • #2
    H&R springs??? Perhaps I'm not thinking clearly...entirely possible...but what are you refering to specifically?

    From what I have experienced/heard the camber issue tends to come into play with springs that actually lower the car significantly like ST springs.

    Ive had Tokico and (now) have ST springs on the rear and I can say definatively that the Tokico had little to no effect on camber. The ST springs did create a visible negative camber. Personally it is livable.

    Coil-over...yep its great stuff and others have done it. I would start here:
    http://www.redz31.com/pages/coilovers.html
    Just stand back and throw money.
    Performance costs money.
    Reliable performance costs more.

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    • #3
      once I have my metal back from the machinist I'll have camber correcting diff mounts available

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      • #4
        Camber gain in the rear is slightly on the "excessive" side. You can pretty easily make your own spring insulators or even use inserts that will lift the car nearer to stock and correct the camber. If you drop the car 1" your rear camber will be about 3 (or more) degrees negative without doing reduction. You want at least 1.5 degrees negative IMO for the best handling on good tires, but it depends greatly on your rear spring and swaybar combination.

        H&R makes a quality spring for my 98 Grand Prix GTP, I have to wonder if they are any stiffer than tokico or even intrax springs comparatively speaking though.

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        • #5
          due to material strength and loads... I can't make my diff mount universally adjustable with one big elongated hole, the best I could do is design it like a camber plate with a bunch of little screws holding it to a position, but that would make it weaker and add a ton of work...

          the only thing feasible (ie price anyone would buy) is multiple but still fixed positions... and it's just a guess as to how much change it will effect on anyone's given setup

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          • #6
            G-E wrote: and it's just a guess as to how much change it will effect on anyone's given setup
            The guess and check method is perfectly sound IMO as long as you do enough guessing and checking.

            Figuring the angles in the rear suspension, I would GUESS that moving the diff mount will correct for a small amount of additional camber (probably in the neighborhood of 1 degree per inch) but I would also GUESS you might reach the generally accepted "limit" of ~3 degrees of driveshaft joint angle during operation before you are able to make a substantial correction.

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            • #7
              exactly there are safe limits in which it has to stay, being that the control arms pivot at a different angle 2 deg at the diff might mean only 1 deg at the hub

              *addendum* if the motor and trans are also lowered, then you can bring back the driveshaft pinion angles for mroe radical diff tilt, but I think that's going a little beyond what most people would do

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              • #8
                I guess I need to get learn-ed

                but how the heack would changing the diff mount effect camber? can some one fill me in because I feel I'm a fairly intelligent person, and I have no idea how you would go about doing that. :?

                thanks
                used to have one of the first high horsepower NA to turbo cam'd 7000rpm pavement pounding z31's....now in process of building an LQ9 LS1 6.0L Z31 with all the goodies

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                • #9
                  hahaha ok here goes

                  move diff up = control arms move down

                  move control arms down = longer spring

                  longer spring = camber more positive
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    i am still skeptackle on this whole process. Just seems like the diff would move and the driveshafts would do there thing of seperating the diff from the swings arms. But, if it works,i am gonna do it. So it actaully affects the ride height of the car, or not?

                    Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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                    • #11
                      WaZZ300 wrote: So it actaully affects the ride height of the car, or not?
                      no the springs affect ride height, by using shorter springs you get negative camber, by moving the diff up you simulate longer springs pushing the trailing arms down

                      that's the point, you already lowered the car, if you wanted MORE negative camber you could move the diff down, or the whole rear subframe down, geddit?

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                      • #12
                        WaZZ300 wrote: i am still skeptackle on this whole process. Just seems like the diff would move and the driveshafts would do there thing of seperating the diff from the swings arms. But, if it works,i am gonna do it. So it actaully affects the ride height of the car, or not?
                        What you need to do is think about the angle the control arm makes relative to the rear suspension. change the angle of the rear suspension and you change the effective position of the control arm in it's travel; altering the suspension geometry very slightly. Think about it and you'll get it.

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                        • #13
                          INTRAX has sent me this:
                          The spring rates are as follows,



                          Front 107 ~ 423lbs/in

                          Rear 119lbs/in
                          Stocker 87 na z31 and a slightly modded 90 240sx

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                          • #14
                            naterbater7169 wrote: i heard that 300zx's have a problem whith cambering when changing to aftermarket suspension. i heard that it was better to get adjustable coilovers instead of trying to space the new springs. what should i do? any suggestions or comments on suspension kits or spacing???? ive been looking at tokico hp struts and h&r springs. yay or na
                            **I like to invest $3k into developing/stocking custom suspension items, just to be ignored...
                            :roll:
                            J/K
                            E-mail me after reading through this link!....If you are serious, I have a deal for you!
                            http://www.redz31.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25
                            Attached Files
                            I am here to help...

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                            • #15
                              WhiteZ31 wrote: INTRAX has sent me this:
                              The spring rates are as follows,



                              Front 107 ~ 423lbs/in

                              Rear 119lbs/in
                              Interesting, softer than stock NA springs before the rate increase in the front comes into play.

                              Dan, you are welcome to post with pictures and info on new products in the links and networking sections.

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