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1987 Maxima And VG30E

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  • 1987 Maxima And VG30E

    Well im new to these forums , And i have a 1987 nissan maxima that i am basicly restoring . The second gen maxima came with the VG30E .

    Ive already redid the whole interior , And did some body work , NOW im working on the engine bay , It has a 250k mileage VG30E Im swapping that out and putting my 150k mileage VG30E out of my older 1988.

    once im done putting the engine in , I really want more power the the stock 150HP , Im looking for more way more!

    Im thinking i could get the 300zx front exhaust manifold , and go turbo .

    And i am hearing from a few friends that a GT30R would be the best for a VG30E , Remember it has 9:1 though and i am just not sure of what kind of turbo and ar to go...

    And im wondering what else to get to go along with the turbo , What kinda injectors and such.

    And i am also thinking of going with a 100 wet shot for a while when im saving up for the turbo and every thing i need , Do you think the engine would hold up with a 100 wetshot?

    Thanks for any replys.

  • #2
    check the member's rides section for the one that says something like "not a z31 but stlil vg powered"

    you will find your salvation in there


    • #3
      The N/A VG30E motor properly tuned and stock will hold about 400-450whp. Guys, any takers on a dispute on that assumption?

      N20 is more abusive to an engive than a turbo is.

      You most likley will not blow the engine from too much power but a lack of a perfect tune.

      In a maxima (front wheel drive) street car 450whp will be more than you could ever use in street trim.
      85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
      04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.


      • #4

        All I can say is read read read. There is a lot of information here at your disposal; it would take weeks to read it all..

        As SATAN pointed out, you will learn the VG is a VERY robust engine.

        100 wetshot on N/A is nothing. I'm sure it could handle a 200 shot if it has a free-flowing exhaust and was tuned correctly.

        GT30 is on the small side for a 3.0L, and turbo selection is a topic for another whole thread.


        • #5
          I have a spare header if you wanna go nuts on your maxima

          Terrible idea putting those wheels on...


          • #6
            I was told i would have to modify it is that correct ?


            • #7
              Well i was just chatting with some guy on the forums..

              And he was saying it was a stupid and senceless idea to swap out a 253k mileage engine and put in a 150k mileage engine..

              The problems on the 250k mileage engine are that some studs on the rear exhaust manifold is broken , And it doesnt seal up. And it has other problems like it needs a rear main seal because it leeks like a whole alot of oil after you have ran it.

              What are you're imputs on this?

              And also , I finally got around to buying an engine hoist and stand tonight.

              Now where are the best mounting points to bolt the chains to the engine ?

              Heres the engine if you want to take a looksie.


              • #8
                I ran a 260K mile 88T enigne that made 383rwhp on 18PSI boost. THe only things that made me replace it were:

                ~Four intact exhaust manifold studs (total) made for a few clickity exhaust leaks and a dirty engine bay.

                ~bad valve seals, smoke on cold starts

                ~excessive blowby after I beat the piss out of it for over a year.

                These engines are reliable if well-maintained, but you are talking about a 100K mile reduction. Barring any lack of maintainence on either engine, the lower miles unit will be in better shape internally... but you have to check that for yourself! As long as you have the new engine out of the car, replace all the manifold studs with SS bolts or new studs. Also consider a cam upgrade?


                • #9
                  haha i wish i am sooo strapped on cash right now..


                  • #10
                    How many stud's do the VG30E's have for the exhaust manifolds ? Whats the best way to get them out , I dont want to break them...

                    and do you think it would be ok to paint my exhaust manifold heat sheilds ? They are soo rusted...

                    With engine enamel?


                    • #11
                      There should be a local who can disinigrate them out of the holes if they do break out. SOAK the crap out of them first. Dan-tss has a nice manifold bolt kit.

                      Terrible idea putting those wheels on...


                      • #12
                        problem is i have no cash!!!

                        lol just bought springs, Engine hoist , Stand , Gloves , axle nut remover set , And a bunch of other shit i need.

                        But i might just go and pick up some regular oem studs from autozone or some thing for like 2.99 eatch , How many will i need ?


                        • #13
                          Ugh, SS studs for the win.
                          It is not recommended to confirm proper installation by driving into walls or other barriers as this could cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.


                          • #14
                            TheIndigo88 wrote: 2.99 eatch , How many will i need ?
                            There are 12; 2 for each port.

                            which means they will cost way more after tax than the TSS stainless bolt kit with shipping. The revised OE studs are only ~3.50 each, why buy parts store?


                            • #15
                              BLOZ UP wrote: Ugh, SS studs for the win.

                              Terrible idea putting those wheels on...