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E-Brake Repair

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  • E-Brake Repair

    So I just got back into a Z after many years. It’s an 87 NA 2+0 5 Speed. One of the biggest issues it has is the E brake not working. It’s actually the first car I’ve had that has e brake issues so it is a new territory for me.

    The handle has nothing to it which is leading me to believe the cable broke. Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks.

  • #2
    Jack up the rear of the car. The e-brake cable connects to the rear calipers on the bottom side. Have someone actuate the handle and see if it's moving at the caliper end. If not, then it may well be a broken cable. If it is moving, then it may just need an adjustment.
    --------------
    Legal stuff:
    **Nissan Employee**
    Any information shared is simply my own opinion and NOT the opinion of Nissan

    not legal stuff:
    '88 300ZX 2+2-- driving... just details left
    '22 Q60RS-- I tell the wife it's hers...
    '87 Chaparral bowrider-- the next project
    '00 Corolla-- kids car.
    '14 E-350-- Gotta haul those kids in something.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by mwolvinm View Post
      Jack up the rear of the car. The e-brake cable connects to the rear calipers on the bottom side. Have someone actuate the handle and see if it's moving at the caliper end. If not, then it may well be a broken cable. If it is moving, then it may just need an adjustment.
      Thanks for the response.

      Sounds simple enough. How difficult is the cable replacement? I have the FSM just to get a general idea what I’m working with but have yet to find a guide on replacing it for a Z31.

      Also is the adjustment piece under the car in the back by the rear subframe?

      Comment


      • #4
        Cables are relatively easy. Un-bolt the handle cable at the union just in front of the subframe. The rear cables run through guide tubes that i find easier to just unbolt
        than to try to push them through while they are still attached at the caliper. Once they are free of those tubes, release them at the caliper. Install is reverse.


        Replacement cables are available through Rockauto or Amazon

        Left: Wagner BC138673 (Cheaper on Amazon)

        Right: Wagner BC138671 (Cheaper on RockAuto)



        84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Z_Karma View Post
          Cables are relatively easy. Un-bolt the handle cable at the union just in front of the subframe. The rear cables run through guide tubes that i find easier to just unbolt
          than to try to push them through while they are still attached at the caliper. Once they are free of those tubes, release them at the caliper. Install is reverse.


          Replacement cables are available through Rockauto or Amazon

          Left: Wagner BC138673 (Cheaper on Amazon)

          Right: Wagner BC138671 (Cheaper on RockAuto)
          Awesome. Thanks for the info! I think I should be able to handle this if I have to. I can’t even look at the issue because it is raining nonstop in NJ right now. I’m hoping I don’t have to replace the whole thing but if I do so be it. I just don’t want to drive it until it is working. Should be ordering an exhaust and tires tonight, the other major things I need. The stock exhaust is completely rotted. I’m hoping the Y pipe is okay though.

          The car also also seems to have a draw at the headlight. Is this a common issue? My other Zs never had it.

          Comment


          • #6
            If rust is an issue, i'd start inspecting ground points on the engine bay harness, and any connections on that engine bay harness in general.
            Sometimes you can rehab brake cables by squirting some silicone lube down the cable and try to work it back
            and forth, but I've found it's only a temporary solution, especially in rainy conditions. I've had them freeze before because of moisture in the cable sheath.


            84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Z_Karma View Post
              If rust is an issue, i'd start inspecting ground points on the engine bay harness, and any connections on that engine bay harness in general.
              Sometimes you can rehab brake cables by squirting some silicone lube down the cable and try to work it back
              and forth, but I've found it's only a temporary solution, especially in rainy conditions. I've had them freeze before because of moisture in the cable sheath.
              Rust thankfully isn’t an issue. A previous owner did some rust repair on the quarter panels, and the undercarriage is in pretty good shape. Just the exhaust rotted away. The engine bay is pretty damn clean. I’ll get some pictures when the rain lets up. It might be the cleanest Z rust wise I’ve ever owned. My 86 was clean too but the rear quarters on both side were gone. My 84 was just a rotted mess as was my 76. I did some extensive rust repair on my 78 but it became too much to handle so I got rid of it. Actually traded it to MichaelP like 7 years ago, not sure if he still posts here.

              Comment


              • Dunkine
                Dunkine commented
                Editing a comment
                I haven't seen him on here, but he's on Facebook regularly. He got a dyno at the shop he works at and he's been doing a bunch of testing and mythbusting. Amazes me how much gets out of these VG's.

            • #8
              Thanks for the links to the cables Z_Karma... I actually have a bad one myself that needs replacing. I can engage the calipers just fine.... but disengagement requires a trip under the car with a hammer to the driver side only. I discovered it wasn't the caliper when I unhooked the cable over the weekend.

              Bates-- I thought rust holes in the exhaust were there to help the car pass emissions...
              --------------
              Legal stuff:
              **Nissan Employee**
              Any information shared is simply my own opinion and NOT the opinion of Nissan

              not legal stuff:
              '88 300ZX 2+2-- driving... just details left
              '22 Q60RS-- I tell the wife it's hers...
              '87 Chaparral bowrider-- the next project
              '00 Corolla-- kids car.
              '14 E-350-- Gotta haul those kids in something.

              Comment


              • #9
                Originally posted by mwolvinm View Post
                Thanks for the links to the cables Z_Karma... I actually have a bad one myself that needs replacing. I can engage the calipers just fine.... but disengagement requires a trip under the car with a hammer to the driver side only. I discovered it wasn't the caliper when I unhooked the cable over the weekend.

                Bates-- I thought rust holes in the exhaust were there to help the car pass emissions...
                At 25+ years old, we don’t have inspections anymore. I actually just ordered a new CM exhaust and test pipe and some fresh rubber for stock wheels. My buddy is grabbing me about $200 in tune up parts as well. The Z will be going under the knife and will finally see the road again very soon.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Quick update. I found the ebrake culprit but can’t fix it yet. By the adjustment near the rear crossmember, the equalizer had gotten destroyed so the second cable leading to the calipers is not currently mated to the first cable coming off the ebrake handle.

                  If anyone knows where where I can get this little piece please let me know and thanks for your help.

                  Comment


                • #11
                  Dunkine I could love you with mouth right now. VintageZparts has exactly what I need! Already placed the order. Thank you so much dude!

                  Comment


                  • Dunkine
                    Dunkine commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Lol! Welcomes
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