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How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternator

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  • #61
    Your mechanic friend doesn't sound so mechanic-y....

    To be clear, both the z31 and the titan (and most Nissans) have the voltage regulator built into the alternator.

    The 2005 Titan alternator has the same plug as the z31.
    The voltage regulator plug type changes in 2008.

    Thats why I suggested being safe and choosing the 2005 model.

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    • #62
      Neat, thanks for the advice, thanks

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      • #63
        okay, sorry for the doublepost, he wasn't super clear on what connector he was talking about

        he meant the connector from the voltage regulator to the ECU

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        • #64
          Originally posted by cavalier0
          okay, sorry for the doublepost, he wasn't super clear on what connector he was talking about

          he meant the connector from the voltage regulator to the ECU
          ECU doesn't regulate the voltage like the newest cars do. It's all self-contained inside the alternator.

          1986 300ZX Turbo...sold
          1990 Skyline GT-R...new money pit
          2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed...daily

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          • #65
            you need to find a new, more knowledgeable (post 70's) mechanic friend.
            Damn dirty angels....these cars!

            Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
            Under the cover - THE BANANA... that needs to be re-energized.
            sigpic

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            • #66
              alright, again, many thanks for the help

              been throwing a lot of money into my car

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              • #67
                I see some posts in this thread that scare me as I really don't like it when cars catch fire, especially at speed! You need a charge wire from the alternator to the battery that can handle continuous 100% output from the alternator. Regardless of what sort of loads you can apply with added electrical accessories if your battery voltage is low after starting the alternator will charge at it's maximum capacity and the stock charge wire is NOT big enough to safely handle a 150+ amp load. Hook jumper cables from your car to one with a dead battery and the alternator will also charge at it's maximum capacity.

                The stock alternator was 70 amps and used a 10 gauge charge wire. This is large enough to safely carry the maximum charge load from a 90 amp Maxima alternator. If you run a 110 amp Quest alternator you should either replace the charge wire with one that's 8 gauge or run a second charge wire of at least 16 gauge in parallel directly from the charge post to the positive battery terminal. For a 150 amp alternator you should replace the charge wire with one that's 6 gauge, or add a parallel wire of at least 12 gauge.

                Anytime I install an alternator over 90amps I add a parallel 12 gauge charging wire as I prefer to not modify stock wiring as a general practice. There's no such thing as too large of a charge wire and many of these ~30 year old car's wiring harnesses are not in the best shape. Age and heat break down the insulation and corrosion increases the resistance in every connection. Vibration and rough handling breaks individual strands in the wires reducing capacity.

                Food for thought: Over the years I've replaced the stock charge wire because it was fried in at least a dozen Nissans, and not a single one had a larger than stock alternator.
                http://www.vg30.com

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