Old, CHeap Body Repair..Kicking My Arse

[Dan-TSS]

In it's life, the "project'88t" car took a light hit and needed a drivers side fender replacement.
*It was a JunkYard part with flaws and the fool(cheap-ass) that did the repair shot the car with a spray filler, then primed, and finished with "Single Stage Paint".
~I'm sure it looked good then, but after so many years, it is evident where the spray filler shrunk and spots where the primer was cut through or thin. The hood is full of trouble, and it's 80grit to the rescue. Noth'in more fun than 6 hrs with a"mad" line sander and three stages of cut...numb fingers! :lol:
Anyways...it's looking like I might be assembling the car in the trailer, during the trip down to the show....heh.
Joy.
*How many more things are there to slow me up?.....jeez.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y88/da ... ion=logout

[Jason84NA2T]

Would chemical stripper not work on that? The 88 hood I put on Justin's 86 had no less than 6 coats of paint on it. Four applications of aircraft stripper later and I had it to the bare metal.

[Dan-TSS]

Unfortunately, The top side of the hood you see was covered with all the nastiness that has accumulated from doing everything else to the car thus far and the defects weren't dicovered until I had the underside finished in Base/clear. This morning I flipped the hood and stripped back all the accumulated garbage from the doors and hood with laquer thinner(good stuff). I had originally planned to D/A all of these and filler primer them tonight.
Precaution is stopping me from chemically stripping, not wanting to contaminate the under edge of the hood or anything associatd with it. I would do it in a heart beat if the underside was still unfinished. Too many hours went into it, and the VECI label is perfect. Blending the edge....I'm to anal about doing that....I'll blend the 1/8" edge rather than worry about blending into the craptacular seam sealer around the underside.
*most easily said...crap repairs suck to find and redo....the end result with the repair method I am doing will last longer and look perfect.
6hrs is a small exaggeration...there are a few small defects I'm repairing before this first coat of filler primer.
The biggest drama is the retarded line sanded I use...It cuts quick, and works well...Just my hands go numb.
Good thing the rest of the car is ok(fender replaced obviously).
I'd D/A a whole car comparing to line sanding 1 hood.
*Can you tell the air compressor is working overtime?...and I'm grabb'in a few cigs?
Typing isn't helping the numb fingers much...
heh
~Back to the grindstone.
Dan

[Dan-TSS]

well. 7hrs later, three stages of cut(2 with line sander, 36g & 80g-one final with 150g D/A with flex pad)
Now ready for pre-cleaning and two heavy coats of filler primer.
*Gonna wreck the doors with 150g D/A before I shoot tonight.

[th2thmansz]

you could've saved a lot of time by taking it to a sand blasting shop, probably been done in 15 minutes :shock:
yeah it might cost few bux but save 7hours of work

[Jason84NA2T]

That's if there is a shop by him with a sandblaster and some very fine grit to not eat into the metal. I think Dan lives in the middle of BFE, NY after all.

[Dan-TSS]

th2thmansz wrote: you could've saved a lot of time by taking it to a sand blasting shop, probably been done in 15 minutes :shock:
yeah it might cost few bux but save 7hours of work

**I have the ability to do that here in shop as well(it's how I handled the engine block/transmission, and numerous other components)...however, I only have 3 bays to work out of and I am in the paint phase right now.
Creating the mess it does when media blasting such a component.....I would be making more clean up work for myself and concerns of contamination of the numerous components spread through-out the 3 bays is a worry.
^^Trust me, given the circumstances...the decision I made was best.
PLUS, with media blasting...I wouldn't have been able to see any highs/lows...I would be stepping into a couple of extra steps to properly level the part. With the method I used...I am able to easily feather edge problem areas so any repairs I do are very minimal. Do you recall reading that I stated the previous repair person used spray filler? The hood didn't need it. The person simply shot a mass of material onto the hood and quickly cut it to a level surface, leaving un-needed material on there, that had shrunk causing the problems.
I never got into the primer last night due to finding the same scenario in the drivers door.
*Hindsight is 20/20. Had I found these isssues before I had taken care of the insides of the hood and doors...
**Any other normal person, would have covered these issues with a few coats of primer only to find a year or two down the road that it crept into the new paint and is showing through.

[Dan-TSS]

2 meduim coats of filler primer, dry cut with d/a 220g &600g.
*find defects, repair and feather.
14hrs


1 fine finish coat of primer, dry cut with d/a 400g &800g.
4.5hrs.
(no pict.)


Nissan 326 white base/ diamont 5100 clear
*wet sand 1500g & finish wet sand 2000g....buff hood.
6.5hrs


*3 more hours of small detailing...the hood will have a better than factory, wet look finish with no imperfections.
~I'm running short on time though......so it'll have to wait, it is "white" after-all.(good hiding color)

[G-E]

I'd say you were obsessed if I didn't know you were already

[Jason84NA2T]

A good looking and matching hood can make all the difference in a car's overall appeal to judges, but with the attention to detail you've gone through I'm sure it will be a real show-stopper either way.