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  • weird electrical problem

    alright, i just finished up my na2t swap and everything is going good for about a week. then one morning i went to start my car and the gagues did not work, so i was thinking damm, i need a new power supply but after driving around a bit i found out that nothing worked(no power locks no wipers no blinkers no rear lights no brake lights no dash lights no climate controls no dash buttons etc...) but it ran fine and i have been driving like this for a couple of days now, so its not the alternator or battery and the weird part is that when i step on the gas and get it to about 4k everything turns on again??only untill i turn off the car, then it goes back to its old non working self. i checked all the relays infront of the passenger side strut tower made shure everything was grounded checked all my fuses checked all the relays above the fuse box. has anyone had this problem before?? if so can u help me out

    thanks
    -andrew
    I hate wheel gap with a extreme passion

    my build
    viewtopic.php?t=2755
    seller feedback
    viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10430

  • #2
    Check your ignition switch? (like, were you actually put your key)

    I am not sure if it cuts everything off, but mine will leave the dash stuff off sometimes until i turn the key back slightly.

    Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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    • #3
      MrwassmanNA2T
      Check your ignition switch? (like, were you actually put your key)
      chacked it out.. and nothing i think if that was the problem then my lights would still work

      the other day i was driving along the road and it started spuddering and shut off. so i figured alright i found out the problem is the alternator so i had it tested and its still good??

      i rewired my alternator, sodered everything togeather put the alternator back into the car and it still runs off the battery and drains it.

      im out of ideas
      I hate wheel gap with a extreme passion

      my build
      viewtopic.php?t=2755
      seller feedback
      viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10430

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      • #4
        i'd say to check your grounds behind your dash. It sounds like a high resistance problem. Might as well check your engine grounds also.
        Shiro Special # 981 Being assembled in my spare time Chromoly acquired!
        Originally posted by BoostedMamma
        Heads up makes teh panties drop. BUT I don't have a penis OR a fast car, so I guess my opinion doesn't count.

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        • #5
          so your alternator tested good but no power is getting out of it, I would check the wires and grounds for it again. It has to be a main ground if everythign is going out like that.

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          • #6
            fusable link. Actually remove them and check continiuty.
            Chuck Stong
            300+ Parts and Performance owner
            http://www.300-plus.com
            2002 ZCOT president and always active member

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            • #7
              alright guy its was my fusable links i hardwired them and everything works
              -good advice enjoyrth and firehawk
              I hate wheel gap with a extreme passion

              my build
              viewtopic.php?t=2755
              seller feedback
              viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10430

              Comment


              • #8
                Andrew84zx wrote: alright guy its was my fusable links i hardwired them and everything works
                -good advice enjoyrth and firehawk
                I would recommend not doing that for very long if you just have a jumper wire in place. Either replace the wire in your fusable links with some that is at least 4 gage sizes smaller, or buy new links.

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                • #9
                  [quote]Jason84NA2T wrote:
                  Originally posted by Andrew84zx
                  alright guy its was my fusable links i hardwired them and everything works
                  -good advice enjoyrth and firehawk
                  I would recommend not doing that for very long if you just have a jumper wire in place. Either replace the wire in your fusable links with some that is at least 4 gage sizes smaller, or buy new links.
                  +1^ What ever caused the link to pop still is not fixed and now you are sending too much juice through somthing that is not made to handle it. I would find out why it popped as soon as you can.
                  85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
                  04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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                  • #10
                    +1 and +1.

                    My money is on the stock wiring to the alternator and/or your primary ground off the battery.

                    There is something here that needs fixed sooner than later.

                    Its an easy fix and not very expensive. You can get a good grounding wire with lead terminal ends at your local auto shop for about $10-15. New auto grade wire 4 or larger grade wire and end terminals needed will be about $25.

                    Balance that against replacing an alternator and/or battery.

                    This is one of those things that virtually all Z31 owners should consider. Old primary electrical wiring doesnt last forever.
                    Just stand back and throw money.
                    Performance costs money.
                    Reliable performance costs more.

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                    • #11
                      Replace them with fuseable links. Hardwiring is not a good idea if there is a problem. I bet there is not, as they are fairly old and I have been seeing some just deteriorate and the new ones held fine. If there is a problem, you can melt wires in some really inconvienent places.
                      Chuck Stong
                      300+ Parts and Performance owner
                      http://www.300-plus.com
                      2002 ZCOT president and always active member

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                      • #12
                        yea, im ordering one from the dealer today but i just temporarely wired a super thin wire in its place

                        the one that was bad was the one closest to the strut tower labeled battery so if it ever happens to anyone else,check that one first
                        I hate wheel gap with a extreme passion

                        my build
                        viewtopic.php?t=2755
                        seller feedback
                        viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10430

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Battery fusible link supports what I said earlier.

                          Been there done that...find the root cause. You will be happy you did. Fusible links seldom just go bad unless you have some serious corrosion issues on them and you would see that the second you took off the plastic cover and pulled the bad link.
                          Just stand back and throw money.
                          Performance costs money.
                          Reliable performance costs more.

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