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Installing Aftermarket Alarm Question

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  • Installing Aftermarket Alarm Question

    I have a question that has probably been answered before somewhere else, but I only look here anymore. I have an aftermarket alarm, nothing special, just want remote door locks and rear hatch. I wanted to use it in conjunction with the OEM alarm, but after reading through the FSM, I don't think it is possible. Has anyone tackled the problem with the key cylinder problem yet??? The OEM alarm actually looks for the key to be in the cylinder from what I am reading. Someone please correct me if I am incorrect. If I am correct, is there a way around this that if I open the lock with the AM alarm remote control that it won't set off the factory alarm? Thanks!
    2006 & 2007 Basketball National Champions! 2005, 6, & 7 Basketball SEC Champions! 2006 Football National Champions! 2006 Football SEC Champions! 2008 SEC Champions! 2008 Football National Champions! First University in history to capture three titles in a single year! I was there at all of them, and it was awesome! Go Gators!

  • #2
    unplug the factory alarm.
    vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
    2009 370z touring/nav/sports

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    • #3
      I know it can be done because mine works in conjuntion with the aftermarket alarm...no idea how it was done since I did not install it or have it installed...was done before I got the car.

      1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Budget Supercar)
      1987 Nissan 200SX SE (Old School FR)
      1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R (Balls To The Wall Track Car)
      2000 Nissan Maxima SE (Daily Driver)
      2006 Scion tC (Wife Whip)

      In an ideal world I would have all ten fingers on my left hand, so my right hand could just be a fist for punching.

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      • #4
        afaik the door lock keyway has a sensor that detects the key, the alarm itself assumes a breakin whenever locked doors are opened without the key unlocking, so it should be a simple bypass

        I know I've triggered it futzing around with the car door after having half closed it locked and either opened or fully closed it, but pissed me off that I had to go get the key to unlock the thing properly

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        • #5
          yeah , it does do that key thing . but if the oem alarm thinks the door is being locked from the inside (not seeing the key) the alarm is never armed , the bad is that that stupid little flashing light can kill your battery in a couple of weeks, another is that if you disconect the battery and connect it back up sometimes it locks the door automatically after the battery gives current , and the when you try and open the car with the remote the alarm goes off.... :x .... so yea just unplug the factoy alarm , the pass side solenoid will still work fine in conjuction with the drivers door if the stock alarm is diconected..


          the auto door lock will be easy, just find the correct wires coming out the loom that comes from the door and wire away, for the trunk tho you will need to buy a solenoid and set that up in the hatch. i think someone put an aftermarket solenoid in my drivers door before i bought the car , because it came with one (im not sure if this was setup oem ,i know the pass door did come with one tho),setting up the alarm system you buy to control a solenoid should be simple, the instructions should explain what wires to put together to control and two wire solenoid or whatever you use,you may need to wire in some relays(i dont remember if i did ) id say an hour and a half tops if you know what you are doing and you have the correct instructions .my dei unit instruction booklet didnt have the wiring diagram i needed ,after a fruitless search online i had to go back to circuit city and ask the installers to photocopy the diagram i needed out of their handbook dei gives them as distributors.....

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          • #6
            That is pretty much the conclusion that I came to as well. I was hoping to keep the factory alarm functional, as it is a very good design, but it does not look like there is any way to accomplish this. I can't believe they have that key sensor, what a PITA. This car was truly ahead of its time. I am suprised they did not have remote locks as well. I will simply deactivate the factory alarm and use the after market one. I know how to wire it and I have all ready got the two solenoids. It should be pretty simple as I have the dash and most of the interior out of the car anyway working on an A/C duct actuator problem. Thanks for the advice.
            2006 & 2007 Basketball National Champions! 2005, 6, & 7 Basketball SEC Champions! 2006 Football National Champions! 2006 Football SEC Champions! 2008 SEC Champions! 2008 Football National Champions! First University in history to capture three titles in a single year! I was there at all of them, and it was awesome! Go Gators!

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            • #7
              Would it be too difficult to isolate the alarm box output to the horn, put it to a relay and make that relay one of the
              "zones" for your aftermarket alarm.?

              I've got one that i need to install too. My factory alarm still works as i found out when i locked my keys in the car last week (twice in one day).
              I guess that little dinger i unplugged the night before was good for something after all.
              I never knew that the factory alarm had a starter disable either.


              84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

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              • #8
                [quote=Z_Karma]Would it be too difficult to isolate the alarm box output to the horn, put it to a relay and make that relay one of the
                "zones" for your aftermarket alarm.?

                This is what I was trying to accomplish, but with the sensor for the key into the lock cylinder it can't be accomplished. We would have to defeat this part of the circuit, or everytime you unlock the doors with the remote, the factory alarm would trigger both alarms.
                2006 & 2007 Basketball National Champions! 2005, 6, & 7 Basketball SEC Champions! 2006 Football National Champions! 2006 Football SEC Champions! 2008 SEC Champions! 2008 Football National Champions! First University in history to capture three titles in a single year! I was there at all of them, and it was awesome! Go Gators!

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                • #9
                  the key "sensor" has to be a switch of some kind, either normally open or closed, but both ways can be bypassed, for open you just run a parallel switch, for closed you run it inline so you have two disconnect points

                  as long as the alarm can output something continuously and not just a momentary trigger, you should be able to do the above easily.... if not then you'll have to look into finding an electrically toggled switch that retains its new state until reset (again by the alarm)

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                  • #10
                    [quote=G-E]the key "sensor" has to be a switch of some kind, either normally open or closed, but both ways can be bypassed, for open you just run a parallel switch, for closed you run it inline so you have two disconnect points

                    Never being one to give up easily, I read thoroughly through the entire Theft Warning section of my 1985 FSM. I found something promissing on page EL-177. Item 15 states, "Alarm does not stop, even if any door or back door is unlocked with key or code number of keyless entry system is put in.." Now that would lead me to believe there was a keyless entry system for the Z31, but if there is, I have not seen one. Does anybody out there have one? I have had two '84s, one '85, and one '86, but don't know much about the 87-89 models. My manual leaves you hanging there and states to make a check on J & K, which only checks the key turning in lock cylinder for both sides. It never mentions the keyless entry system again. I am hoping a true Z31 master knows how to input the "code number" of the keyless entry system. Could someone check a later FSM for me to see if there is further information on this code?

                    By the way for those that want to know what the brains (control unit) of the security system is looking for during the key "sweep" from straight up vertical (referred to as Nuetral in the manual) and approximately 2 O'clock is a momentary ground signal. During the "sweep" a wire going to a connector for the theft sub control unit under the passenger seat on Pin G for the driver's door goes to ground. It is open or floating when either fully locked, unlocked, or in nuetral. It works the same for the unlock stroke from nuetral to approximately 10 O'clock position. The pins for the passenger & rear hatch cylinder's are K & J respectively. You can use pin P for your ground reference. When looking at the harness connector with the tab in the down position, pin P is at the upper left corner. With the tab in the up position, the pins in the upper row go from A-H and lower go from I-P.

                    As G-E stated this could be simulated by someone that knows how to trigger a momentary relay at the exact time the door is unlocking for the exact right amount of time and short pins G, K, or J to ground. You will probably need two seperate relays, one for the pair of doors and one for the hatch. I have an idea how to accomplish this, but I am far from an electronic's guru. It is the momentary part that is difficult along with the timing. I would much rather figure out how to input the keyless entry code so that the control unit does not look for this momentary ground pulse.
                    2006 & 2007 Basketball National Champions! 2005, 6, & 7 Basketball SEC Champions! 2006 Football National Champions! 2006 Football SEC Champions! 2008 SEC Champions! 2008 Football National Champions! First University in history to capture three titles in a single year! I was there at all of them, and it was awesome! Go Gators!

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                    • #11
                      I've never heard of a keyless z.... maybe they intended to release a dealer installed option or maybe it was europe or japan only


                      also just a guess but I doubt timing is too critical, the reason I say this is that the locks don't electrically activate until you are around 2 o'clock, so first off I would say the only reason the "sensor" activates there is it proves you have the right key

                      btw if you wanna be clever you could wire up a bypass with an external switch somewhere that will prevent even the correct key from disarming it

                      personally I'm going to have an ecu cut, fuel pump cut, a hidden momentary swtich to use when starting, and I'll be adding relays for the headlights to the quest relay box (7 empty slots)

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                      • #12
                        G-E wrote: I've never heard of a keyless z.... maybe they intended to release a dealer installed option or maybe it was europe or japan only
                        Never heard of those.. Had to be Japan only.
                        Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
                        Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
                        http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com

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                        • #13
                          I've got a pic somewhere of a junkyard Z31 that had an alarm-disarm tubular cylinder lock, with a swinging key cover and the Nissan Logo on it.
                          Early-mid 80s alarm systems had these fender locks before wireless key faubs were mainstream.
                          It was mounted to the drivers side fender, about where the 50th AE emblems are located. It looked factory, or atleast dealership
                          installed.


                          84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

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