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constructing wiring harness from scratch

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  • #16
    Honestly, I use all black wire and don't even bother to try to color code it. "how in god's name do you figure out what is what?" Well I'm going to teach you guys an old telecom secret. If you put a tone on the wire (with a $20 toner you can do just that). You then take an inductive tone wand (again avaliable at fry's or any store that sells telecom equipment) you can find which wire has the tone on it , attach connectors and be done with it.
    Funny stories!

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    • #17
      homestar wrote: Honestly, I use all black wire and don't even bother to try to color code it. "how in god's name do you figure out what is what?" Well I'm going to teach you guys an old telecom secret. If you put a tone on the wire (with a $20 toner you can do just that). You then take an inductive tone wand (again avaliable at fry's or any store that sells telecom equipment) you can find which wire has the tone on it , attach connectors and be done with it.
      Thats not really a secret that is just common practice.:wink:

      I cut back on a good amount of wires in the engine bay and it alot better, less confusing and alot easier to work on to trouble shoot.And for the inside more of the wire can be taken off in parts as indivual harnesses.
      1986 Current build
      HX35/40 60mm wheel,480cc injectors,nistune, spearco 2-221,6 puck,walbro fp,solid cross and diff,jason motor mounts,poly everywhere else.

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      • #18
        GotFast? wrote: I completely stripped my stock wiring harness out. I bet there is easily 50 pounds in wiring there.

        I ran the basics i need to run a car. I have the engine harness which includes crank sensor, tps, coolant temp, knock, and mass air flow. There are a couple other sensors in there that are not important to running the car.

        I have wiring for the fuel pump, headlights, turn signals, tail lights and brake lights. Reverse lights also work as well. The headlight motors also work.

        I have no heating or air conditioning. I use Autometer gauges. I retained power windows, power locks and the solinoids that pop my door latches (shaved doors).

        Other then that there isnt much else needed. I wasnt to worried about wiring colors as if you are only running the bare minumum there are very few wires left in the car. Also if you cut your stock harness out you can take any wires you may want to use from that as they have the tracer on them.
        I did the same thing a while ago in my car only I pulled the ENTIRE HARNESS not just parts. there cant possibly be 50 pounds of wires that you pulled out. Yeah I left my lights and power locks and windows oh and the digi dash, fuse box, relay box and thats pretty much it. Where did you get 50 pounds from?
        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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        • #19
          From the fact that I put every wire, fuse block, relay block and connector that originally came in the car into a box and then carried it down stairs to tuck it away should I ever need the harness for a different Z.


          I made all my own harness. The stuff that is in the car is my own personal stuff, not stuff cut from the nissan harness.

          I dont know how much the stuff I put back in weighed...But the box with all the nissan stuff is very heavy.
          Attached Files
          ""You gota watch out in this weather. Its when them white boys with their turbos come out to play" Mr. Rimpson - UTI Instructor, refering to a slightly damp 50 degree day.

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          • #20
            there's another "trick" you guys aren't used to, but it's common with automation systems, they use 1 colour wire with little number loops you slide on and mark each end.... then you can write the new harness layout on paper by number

            I'm considering getting some mil connectors for things like the firewall, rather than feed through holes something will plug right onto the firewall

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