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Driveline stress talk..

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  • Driveline stress talk..

    I finally got the poly mount in the car but it will be a few days before it hits the ground, still have front hubs, driveshaft safety loop and exhaust to put on. When you get the other stuff manufactured id be happy to test the products too! I should be putting huge stress on these parts with 450RWHP and 20psi 2 step slick launches!

  • #2
    roastin300 wrote: with 450RWHP and 20psi 2 step slick launches!
    Stub axle.... kerPOW!

    I could see 6 or 8PSI launches, 20PSI will for sure send those things to an early grave.

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    • #3
      I think he meant lunches

      as in munching on the stubs

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      • #4
        Jason84NA2T wrote: I could see 6 or 8PSI launches, 20PSI will for sure send those things to an early grave.
        SATAN says he launched on 20psi. Still waiting on video a year later. No, Im not talking shit, I just want to see it, because I don't see how those shafts would hold.

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        • #5
          what about that guy from WWR that rick88ss keep posting about on z31.com , he uses an open welded diffy , and i wonder how he launches with 600-700hp depending on the nitrous.... i dopnt see how much of his drivetrain would hold , he must take it easy on the launch.

          but then again , jason said he didn't brake the shaft on the launch , he broke going into third i think ....

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          • #6
            Yes, stay on topic! lol

            I broke the driveshaft on the launch, I also broke the stup axle on the launch ON STREET TIRES. I broke the last 88T transmission going into second gear. I never had this many driveline issues before... they have been preventing me from making a respectable pass.

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            • #7
              Jason84NA2T wrote: Yes, stay on topic! lol

              I broke the driveshaft on the launch, I also broke the stup axle on the launch ON STREET TIRES. I broke the last 88T transmission going into second gear. I never had this many driveline issues before... they have been preventing me from making a respectable pass.
              Just a thought....any chance for the possibility of you needing to change your driving technique?
              :roll:
              I am here to help...

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              • #8
                I honestly baby it as much as I can. I've tried many, many ways of launching the car and obviously none are going to be very "nice" to it to begin with. From an engineering standpoint, I don't think any other launching technique short of intentionally bogging it would be any 'safer'.

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                • #9
                  wwr runs an automatic, much easier on drivetrain parts. i think jason needs ford 9"!! nice wheel stands!!
                  1986 Nissan 300ZX 300zx z31 turbo: 0.000 @ 0.000 MPH

                  http://www.youtube.com/user/thflash2007

                  http://www.facebook.com/pages/CWF-Dy...37431403027542

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                  • #10
                    i was doing 20 psi launchs for the last three times to the track. jason, can you elaborate on the 2 stage launch? i just dump and go, but at over 20 psi, i`m traction`s bitch

                    Exercising my constitutional right to be awesome

                    1.5.2. Podium winning cars do NOT need to be running at the checkered flag
                    good thing....

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                    • #11
                      you could use a solenoid on a switch for low and high boost wastegate actuation..... if you mount it to the steering wheel or use something easy to reach like the cruise stalk....

                      then you launch at like 6psi and halfway in second you pop it to high and zooom

                      or were you thinking it was more complicated?

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                      • #12
                        autoworkZ wrote: i was doing 20 psi launchs for the last three times to the track. jason, can you elaborate on the 2 stage launch? i just dump and go, but at over 20 psi, i`m traction`s bitch
                        Your car is not at 20PSI coming off the line.

                        An advanced 2-step launch controller with timing adjustment lets you build boost on the line by adjusting spark timing along with a lower rev limiter that holds revs at a preset level and lets boost build up with no load. That way there is no turbo lag, because it's spooled and engine is at the "optimum" RPM/boost for launching before you even engage the clutch. As soon as you engage the clutch the second step of the rev limiter is engaged and you proceed down the track.

                        I dump and go as well, but I don't have any boost until at the very least 5-8 feet off the line. That's where I broke the driveshaft last fall and the stub axle at Branson. Taking that amount of power from a standstill is a recipe for putting hardcore power down instantly for the lowest 60' and ET, but it increases the strain on the driveline parts by exponential amounts.
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          Well I've never really worried about the driveline. I run my track tires at the drag strip (Yokohama AO32R) with about 25-27 psi in them. I launch hard around 4,000 rpms with no wheel spin. 2.0 sec. 60 foot times so far. I'm gonna up it to 5,000 rpms next time & hope to dip into the 1.6-1.8 sec. 60' times. Good thing I have extra axles laying around in case one breaks. If the drive shaft goes I will have an aluminum one built.
                          Attached Files
                          378whp 445wtq
                          http://mark86t.zmobiledetailing.com/.../v/Black+Hole/


                          Z Mobile Detailing, Las Vegas, NV

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It's interesting you should mention that Mark... After I broke the driveshaft I did some investigating and had every intention of buying a lightweight aluminum shaft. After talking to a few driveline shops, none of them recommended an aluminum shaft for a daily driven high-hp street car. Apparently because aluminum is far more malleable than steel, they all supposedly tend to egg out the join holes over time? I ended up going with a 3" chromoly shaft and the bigger spicer joints. Not trying to deter you, but investigate it first and make sure that the part is going to be what you want.


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Jason84NA2T wrote: It's interesting you should mention that Mark... After I broke the driveshaft I did some investigating and had every intention of buying a lightweight aluminum shaft. After talking to a few driveline shops, none of them recommended an aluminum shaft for a daily driven high-hp street car. Apparently because aluminum is far more malleable than steel, they all supposedly tend to egg out the join holes over time? I ended up going with a 3" chromoly shaft and the bigger spicer joints. Not trying to deter you, but investigate it first and make sure that the part is going to be what you want.
                              That makes sense. I certainly would want something stronger. Not too worried about having a lighter driveshaft as ours is very short to begin with. Good info. Thanks.
                              378whp 445wtq
                              http://mark86t.zmobiledetailing.com/.../v/Black+Hole/


                              Z Mobile Detailing, Las Vegas, NV

                              Comment

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