since i`m doing one i thought i would do a nice write up on with pictures and all. I`m in the middle of it now so i`ll post more tomorrow.
1. Remove offending auto trans from car. Look it up in the Haynes manual, I`m not gonna hold your dick for you.
2. Realize some cock loving shit bag stole the 5 speed trans that has been sitting outside the back of your shop for 2 weeks. Gather tools and go to the junkyard a pull another one. Cuss the last owner for using a 17mm nut on one of the driveshaft bolts and yourself for not bringing a 17mm wrench.
3. ok, for a junkyard trans jack, and this works for going in and coming out. yes there are other ways, this is my way. I use a tie down strap, not one that ratchets but one of the cheepos that you just pull to tighten and push the little lever to release. put one hook around the egr tube, run it under the trans then up to something else. today i hooked it on the throttle cable bracket. tighten the strap against the trans. after all the bolts are out, pull it away from the engine, releasing the strap a little at a time. this helps with 2 people, but i have done it by myself. release the strap till the trans is close to the ground. you can use this for going back in also and works better than a floor jack actually.
4. a list of what you will need to perform the swap
5 speed trans (duh)
clutch set
flywheel to match the selected clutch kit, the bolt for the flex plate are too short for the task of holding on a flywheel, find the correct bolts.
clutch masta
clutch slave
hard line from masta to slave
280zx front brake hose or similar
drive shaft to go with your trans
clutch pedal, comes out as an assembly
brake pedal, need just the pedal, i`ll show you my trick for installing that later.
shifter, boots, trim, etc
the plates that sandwich between the trans and block, 2 of them
5. you have to remove the bushing from the back of the trans where the torque converter went into. it`s a cunt. one way is to weld a nut to it and use a slide hammer, or if you don`t have a slide hammer, use an impact on the welded nut, it will come off. there is also drilling opposing holes through the bushing. be carefull not to drill into the crank dumbass.
6. now is a good time to replace the rear main seal and the trans front and rear seals. go back to the haynes manual.
7. install the pilot bearing and throw out bearing. i use a wooden hammer handle and an install tool. see pic. don`t break it
8. now that that is done, install the big plate that goes inbetween the trans and block, this has to go on before the flywheel. now install the flywheel, using lock-tite on the bolts and torquing them correctly. now the clutch plate and pressure plate. the cltuch plate can be installed backwards, i`ll take a pic of the correct install direction, incase your plate doesn`t say "flywheel side" on it. torque bolts correctly, use the clutch alignment tool, and "lift" the tool slightly before you start to tighten the bolts, to help center the plate. I use lock-tite on all the clutch bolts, better safe than sorry.
9. now that the clutch is done, put the trans on, you can use 2 head bolts with the heads cut off as guides, just screw them into 2 bolt holes and slide the trans on. don`t fucking wiggle it too much, you can break the pilot bushing by being to aggresive. put the bolts in, tighten them down. i put the 2 upper bolts in the passenger side bracket loosely and put the 2 bolts for the starter through their holes to keep the bracket lined up, then tighten the 2 upper bolts. now you can install the starter. don`t forget the smaller plate between the engine and trans. put all the bolts in, or if you`re me, most of them. reinstall the driveshaft and all the other crap.
/>10. install the new or used slave cylinder on to the trans. install the 280zx brake hose to the slave cyl and to the hard line. run the hard line to the masta cyl location. beside the brake booster.
11. now comes the fun part! remove the brake pedal. the pedal for auto cars is too wide and will hit the clutch pedal. disconnect the push rod and take the 17mm bolt out.
12. if you look on the firewall, outboard of the brake booster, in the engine compartment, there is a little plate, similar in size and shape to a masta cyl. take the 2 nuts off and scrape the plate off.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
13. wire the brake pedal as shown, other wise you will be fighting with it, and it can be a bitch. install into bracket and install bolt.
14. install the clutch pedal assembly, the masta cyl will bolt to the 2 studs that go through the firewall. for the other 2 bolts go look through your bolt box, 2 10mm head bolts, straight up. install the push rod, pin and clip
15. Install the new/used masta cyl. thread the hard line into the masta cyl.
16. trans, clutch, pedals, masta. slave, shifter, all installed. pour in some fluid and bleed the clutch. if you`re using the clutch dampner, you`re an idiot, i never told you to put it on, follow directions!
17. now for the wiring. you will need to jumper the inhibit relay on the 84 or the car won`t start. see here (i havn`t taken the pic yet clown) the 5 speed only has back-up lights and neutral safety switch. and under the dash you will have the brake light switch, crusie control cancel switch on the brake and clutch pedal and clutch depressed switch for the neutral safety switch. i`ll finish this part later when i actually do it and refreash my memory.
18. op check. go do some burn outs, shift-locks, clutch kicks, stuff like that.
1. Remove offending auto trans from car. Look it up in the Haynes manual, I`m not gonna hold your dick for you.
2. Realize some cock loving shit bag stole the 5 speed trans that has been sitting outside the back of your shop for 2 weeks. Gather tools and go to the junkyard a pull another one. Cuss the last owner for using a 17mm nut on one of the driveshaft bolts and yourself for not bringing a 17mm wrench.
3. ok, for a junkyard trans jack, and this works for going in and coming out. yes there are other ways, this is my way. I use a tie down strap, not one that ratchets but one of the cheepos that you just pull to tighten and push the little lever to release. put one hook around the egr tube, run it under the trans then up to something else. today i hooked it on the throttle cable bracket. tighten the strap against the trans. after all the bolts are out, pull it away from the engine, releasing the strap a little at a time. this helps with 2 people, but i have done it by myself. release the strap till the trans is close to the ground. you can use this for going back in also and works better than a floor jack actually.
4. a list of what you will need to perform the swap
5 speed trans (duh)
clutch set
flywheel to match the selected clutch kit, the bolt for the flex plate are too short for the task of holding on a flywheel, find the correct bolts.
clutch masta
clutch slave
hard line from masta to slave
280zx front brake hose or similar
drive shaft to go with your trans
clutch pedal, comes out as an assembly
brake pedal, need just the pedal, i`ll show you my trick for installing that later.
shifter, boots, trim, etc
the plates that sandwich between the trans and block, 2 of them
5. you have to remove the bushing from the back of the trans where the torque converter went into. it`s a cunt. one way is to weld a nut to it and use a slide hammer, or if you don`t have a slide hammer, use an impact on the welded nut, it will come off. there is also drilling opposing holes through the bushing. be carefull not to drill into the crank dumbass.
6. now is a good time to replace the rear main seal and the trans front and rear seals. go back to the haynes manual.
7. install the pilot bearing and throw out bearing. i use a wooden hammer handle and an install tool. see pic. don`t break it
8. now that that is done, install the big plate that goes inbetween the trans and block, this has to go on before the flywheel. now install the flywheel, using lock-tite on the bolts and torquing them correctly. now the clutch plate and pressure plate. the cltuch plate can be installed backwards, i`ll take a pic of the correct install direction, incase your plate doesn`t say "flywheel side" on it. torque bolts correctly, use the clutch alignment tool, and "lift" the tool slightly before you start to tighten the bolts, to help center the plate. I use lock-tite on all the clutch bolts, better safe than sorry.
9. now that the clutch is done, put the trans on, you can use 2 head bolts with the heads cut off as guides, just screw them into 2 bolt holes and slide the trans on. don`t fucking wiggle it too much, you can break the pilot bushing by being to aggresive. put the bolts in, tighten them down. i put the 2 upper bolts in the passenger side bracket loosely and put the 2 bolts for the starter through their holes to keep the bracket lined up, then tighten the 2 upper bolts. now you can install the starter. don`t forget the smaller plate between the engine and trans. put all the bolts in, or if you`re me, most of them. reinstall the driveshaft and all the other crap.
/>10. install the new or used slave cylinder on to the trans. install the 280zx brake hose to the slave cyl and to the hard line. run the hard line to the masta cyl location. beside the brake booster.
11. now comes the fun part! remove the brake pedal. the pedal for auto cars is too wide and will hit the clutch pedal. disconnect the push rod and take the 17mm bolt out.
12. if you look on the firewall, outboard of the brake booster, in the engine compartment, there is a little plate, similar in size and shape to a masta cyl. take the 2 nuts off and scrape the plate off.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
13. wire the brake pedal as shown, other wise you will be fighting with it, and it can be a bitch. install into bracket and install bolt.
14. install the clutch pedal assembly, the masta cyl will bolt to the 2 studs that go through the firewall. for the other 2 bolts go look through your bolt box, 2 10mm head bolts, straight up. install the push rod, pin and clip
15. Install the new/used masta cyl. thread the hard line into the masta cyl.
16. trans, clutch, pedals, masta. slave, shifter, all installed. pour in some fluid and bleed the clutch. if you`re using the clutch dampner, you`re an idiot, i never told you to put it on, follow directions!
17. now for the wiring. you will need to jumper the inhibit relay on the 84 or the car won`t start. see here (i havn`t taken the pic yet clown) the 5 speed only has back-up lights and neutral safety switch. and under the dash you will have the brake light switch, crusie control cancel switch on the brake and clutch pedal and clutch depressed switch for the neutral safety switch. i`ll finish this part later when i actually do it and refreash my memory.
18. op check. go do some burn outs, shift-locks, clutch kicks, stuff like that.
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