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Driveshaft options!?

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  • Driveshaft options!?

    Welp I installed my solid diff and subframe bushings, have poly motor and trans mounts in preparation for an ACT 6 puck I put in yesterday. Ground work is now laid for for power.
    Unfortunatly when removing my driveshaft I discovered a tiny bit of play in the front universal joint! bah

    Now I'm looking for options of what to do when I take it in for service tomarrow.

    From all your experiances and in your opinion what should I go for?
    Have some beefy universals installed, go full aluminum, drive on it till she snaps like a twig? Any ideas would be helpful.

  • #2
    aluminum isn't strong, so only use it for low powered enduro cars...

    buy a new factory piece or have yours rebuilt....

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    • #3
      Pictures of my custom unit are in my album on coppermine. It was under $300 out the door built locally. New slip yoke and diff flange, uses the bigger spicer joints. There's a place online that will build you the same shaft for less here:

      http://www.pstds.com/

      I would recommend going with a 3" tube, DOM if you want super strength. IMO aluminum is a nono unless you're trying to squeeze that little bit more out of a race car. They tend to egg the joint holes over time and you need to frequently inspect and then buy a new tube for them when they develop slop.

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      • #4
        I've inspected the 3 driveshafts I have, na auto, na mt, turbo mt...

        they all have the same wear pretty much, they have a slight dent at the center position so when you tilt the u-joints it clicks into place when you reach the middle like a mitre-saw does at 90 degrees

        beyond that I see/feel no play or slop in them, and these are all between 100-130k mile units so assuming you get another 100k out of it .... compare that to a replaceable ujoint shaft, I would imagine the cost gets pretty close in the end

        I'm going to install the na tranny eventually since I have the 2+2 shaft for it... I won't beat on it and picked up a shorty for it dirt cheap...

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        • #5
          Jason84NA2T wrote: There's a place online that will build you the same shaft for less here:

          http://www.pstds.com/
          Do you by chance know if they have measurements to build a shaft for an 87-89 turbo on file? Or will I have to give them all that info in the custom order page?

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          • #6
            you can give them the fsm, and just to be clear I looked into it... the measurements for the 5 speed driveshafts are the same between the 30a and 71c for both 2 and 4 seater... I don't remember if the t-5 is the same

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            • #7
              G-E wrote: you can give them the fsm, and just to be clear I looked into it... the measurements for the 5 speed driveshafts are the same between the 30a and 71c for both 2 and 4 seater... I don't remember if the t-5 is the same
              If I remember correctly all of the Z31 manual driveshafts have the same end to end length because the transmissions have the same length. I had to make sure when putting the 30A in a 2+2 that it would be the same length as a 90A or 71C shaft.

              1artworkz sent me a driveshaft dimension diagram a long time ago, I will see if I can dig it out for you.

              EDIT: Found it! Keep in mind this is a slip yoke and diff flange dimensions for an 84T with the T5, so yours will not be the same if you are using something else.

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              • #8
                Just to kind of throw another option out there...I was having problems breaking my u-joints on the rear (which I later found was from the slop in my rear crossmember and I need new rear crossmember bushings) and I had a driveshaft shop repair my stock driveshaft two different times, however since he didn't have a balancer, it had vibration at higher speeds and I was sick of it after only a short time.

                So I turned to an alternative I was familiar with being with the Z32 crowd. http://www.powertrainindustries.com. They specialize in making custom drivetrain parts and especially driveshafts for specialty vehicles. They've since updated their site, but they used to even mention the 300ZX on their homepage. I paid right at $300 shipped for a steel driveshaft with removal/replaceable u-joints. You can also get an all aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft if you have lots of green to spend.
                Originally posted by Andrew84zx
                tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
                545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ
                VG30ET.com Member

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                • #9
                  I ended up just having it rebuilt and balanced at a local shop with some heavy duty servicable universals. Total came to about $117 and I couldn't be happier!

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                  • #10
                    If those are the ones with the internal clips I would be concerned for their longevity. Those might be the same rockford stock replacement ones that I have broken.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      For the price I wouldn't dought it.
                      BUT the shop gives a 6 month limited warranty on all it's stuff. SO if I blow it up with that ACT 6-puck I can take it back and complain. (within 6 months)

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                      • #12
                        cheezmonta wrote: For the price I wouldn't dought it.
                        BUT the shop gives a 6 month limited warranty on all it's stuff. SO if I blow it up with that ACT 6-puck I can take it back and complain. (within 6 months)
                        The shop I had mine done at offered a 3 month warranty, I broke it just shy of 3 months but he told me it was not covered and explained their warranty policy. I didn't argue, as he knew exactly what I was using the car for... It's not a big deal though, the joints in the T5 shaft before that were the same type and they held up with lots of abuse running repeated 1.8-1.9 60' and low 12's.

                        I hope your shop has a slightly less "limited" warranty.

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