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I got my LSD in there but now weird noises

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  • I got my LSD in there but now weird noises

    I got everything buttoned up last night just before my gorl came over...needless to say I was not able to testdrive it till thismorning.

    anyway, when I swapped the diff, I also swapped the control arms with the turbo hubs and halfshafts. anyway, I now hear strange wirring noises from the hubs. I don't notice and abnormal wear from the bearings...by grabbing the tire at 12oclock and rocking back and forth

    Has anyone ever done rear wheel bearings on these? is it a pain in the arse like the fronts? or are they slip ons?

    thanks
    used to have one of the first high horsepower NA to turbo cam'd 7000rpm pavement pounding z31's....now in process of building an LQ9 LS1 6.0L Z31 with all the goodies

  • #2
    How many miles have you driven it on the new rear wheel bearings? Did you do anything else besides just swap the control arms and diff, like poly crossmember bushings?

    The used control arm I put on in Branson, MO (when I broke an axle stub down there) had some wheel bearings making a fairly loud whirring noise for about the first 100 miles after I put it on, after that it went away and has not returned. I figured maybe they were just sitting for a long time and needed to get warm enough to throw the grease around a little?

    Is there any noticable slop in the driveline? Did you make sure to check the torque on both the axle stubs and the diff conpanion flange? How much freeplay is in the diff? I would get under there and inspect it all once more, if it's all good then wait and see if it gets any louder.

    BTW on a side note, be sure to not use synthetic gear lube in the LSD's. I had a few driveline shops tell me not to, all gave the same story about having more people come in with failed diffs that used synthetic, having them switch to dino and never having another issue. I'm not sure exactly why.

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    • #3
      huh...no synth...damnit I just wasted $17.00 on Mobile 1...I'm gonna leave it in there though just because I can't fathom any scenario why synth would be worse for dino...and I've never ever heard that before

      and that's a good idea to drive it around for a few 100miles or so, will try that before I do anything

      and to answer you question....no, the diff and control arms were the onlything changed...I already had all that stuff on the old open diff set-up.

      I cracked open the diff and checked endplay/ side play/ and freeplay, all within spec.

      oh, and the noise is noticably coming from the hubs...both of them, I can discearn the diff noise as it sounds just as it did with the open diff in there

      if it doesn't go away after a few hundred miles...looks like i'm gonna do bearings
      used to have one of the first high horsepower NA to turbo cam'd 7000rpm pavement pounding z31's....now in process of building an LQ9 LS1 6.0L Z31 with all the goodies

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      • #4
        Have fun with those. They royally suck and I hope I never have to do them again.

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        • #5
          Jason84NA2T wrote: Have fun with those. They royally suck and I hope I never have to do them again.
          Yeah the fronts are no biggie but the rears are probably one of the most painful operations on the Z31.

          Hopefully your whine will go away soon....let us know how your project keeps coming....
          Originally posted by Andrew84zx
          tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
          545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ
          VG30ET.com Member

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          • #6
            some not so good news on the noise...I decided to take it for a drive after work thursday....anyway I think is started to sound worse.

            On the way home I look in the rear view mirror and saw my roomate and he followed me home. When he got out he said it looks like there is ** POSITIVE ** camber in the left rear tire!

            sure enough that is what it looks like.

            I guess they were curb smacked. the car in the yard was only hit in the front, have no idea how it would happen, but it makes sense now cause the crossmember mount holes were all bent up. I figured the puller at the yard somehow did that with the forklift, guess not. car must have spun around and smacked the curb

            I'll be swapping out the control arms tomorrow and hopefully all is well.

            ps: I did pull the NA hub adapters on the original control arms today....wholly sheite...the hub retaining bolts were on there sooooo tight I had to use my 2ft breaker bar with a 4 ft cheater bar to crak those loose. and I'm no light weight, these things were tough. I first tried to use my impact gun(rated at 410 ft/lbs) didn't even budge. Dang

            My torque wrench only goes to 120ft/lbs, and these are supposed to be torqued to 154-210 ft/lbs, anyone know a good way to estamate the torque?
            used to have one of the first high horsepower NA to turbo cam'd 7000rpm pavement pounding z31's....now in process of building an LQ9 LS1 6.0L Z31 with all the goodies

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            • #7
              stand on the 2ft breaker bar ? hahaha

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              • #8
                welp, did the swap-over

                everything worked fine...noises gone

                what a pain in the arse...

                I cranked up the air to 130psi on the compressor(don't recomend doing that) I have a heavy duty Mack tools gun so I figured it could take it.

                Ripped those retainer bolts right outa there, but on the turbo style hub retainers the bolts are set off in a square pattern where the NA versions are triangulated. That meant that my puller didn't work...which meant I had to get out my BFH(big f*ckin Hammer) and start wailing on the outside hub till it came off. arrghh...fsm calls for a slide hammer hooker to the lug bolts btw.

                all is good now though, anyone who wants to do this job...don't, just find some good complete control arms on ebay or some crap...I just found a set for $99.00 on ebay...way would have wanted to shell out than do that swapover again
                used to have one of the first high horsepower NA to turbo cam'd 7000rpm pavement pounding z31's....now in process of building an LQ9 LS1 6.0L Z31 with all the goodies

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                • #9
                  Ken in AZ wrote: all is good now though, anyone who wants to do this job...don't, just find some good complete control arms on ebay or some crap...I just found a set for $99.00 on ebay...way would have wanted to shell out than do that swapover again
                  That's exactly what I've said! The way I remove the stub axles and flange is just like that, but I have a steel grating on a car trailer out back that I stick the wheel studs through. Then the 2ft breaker on a 1/2" drive and they'll come off with some jarring. Use an aluminum dowel to hit the nut on the end of the stub axle to drive it out and get the flange off.

                  Then, to put them back on to "spec" I have just tightened them by the same method until I can't budge them anymore, I've had the new wheel bearings in there for over two years with no issues.

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