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not specifically Z but ATF related

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  • not specifically Z but ATF related

    researching the chrysler stuff I found all sorts of references to atf+3 vs. dexron, seems the common consensus is chrysler autoboxes need atf+3, regardless that chrysler released a bulletin stating that dexron III could be substituted

    well being that I had just replaced my shaft seal, I went hog wild and got atf+3, not the dom perignon amsoil stuff, just cheapo motomaster, and I can say having tested it back to back.....

    atf+3 is better, the k-car never shifted so smoothly (always ended up with dexron from the service shops), even from a cold start, and apparently that's one of the better properties of the stuff, low and high temperature stability

    I'm beginning to wonder, if chrysler says dexron will work in theirs, wouldn't that make atf+3 a better choice for ours?

  • #2
    It's tough to say. I don't have too much knowledge in the area of automatic transmissions, try calling a performance trans shop?

    On a side note I will never use Amsoil. They won't let any third parties test their oils or publish results for a reason... Even castrol lets people test their syntec, which is the absolute worst performing synthetic oil on the market.

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    • #3
      the amsoil came in a clear bottle..... at 4 times the cost...

      I'm not paying 12 bux a quart

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      • #4
        Schafers and Redline both have ATF that should surpass the Dexron. Both have info on the web, but Redline can be purchased at some local parts stores, Schafers is only sold through individual distributors. I would go with a quality synthetic like Redline personally.

        Ive been using Schafers in my engines for years. My distributor offers free testing on the old oil samples (2 with each case purchased) The results are amazing to see compared to even high grade shelf oil. Chevron Delo 400 v.s. Schafers synthetic was an absolute no contest. It was actually kind of disturbing. :?

        Anyone can have their oil tested though. PM me if you are interested and I will send you a link. Be warned though...the results may not be comfortable to see. :shock: Especially if you are running an aftermarket filter or non-synthetic oil past 5K miles.
        Just stand back and throw money.
        Performance costs money.
        Reliable performance costs more.

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        • #5
          `

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          • #6
            Bernardd wrote: i use tractor hydraulic fluid. case/IH hydra-tran or something like that. it's stop my trans from flaring when the boost hits. you may not have that problem but i thought i'd mention it. it was 15 bux for 4 liters.
            Hmm, this is the problem tehpopa's car has been having since I raised the boost. Think you can get that stuff at TSC? Will it work find with the ATF... what's already in the TC?

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            • #7
              what do you mean flaring?

              for the short time my z will be auto I was thinking of using atf+3.... the trans works fine except sometimes slipped in overdrive, not sure why only sometimes

              thinking a good clean, running it til all the fluid pours out the cooler line, then refill with atf+3

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              • #8
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                • #9
                  I'm in toronto, but I drive all over, so anywhere from windsor to peterborough is my domain really....

                  I think I might drop the valve body and take a look at modifying it... what could I lose? and of course I'll try the atf+3.... do you have anything scribbled down or scanned beyond the crappy level10 leaflet scan on z31.com?

                  I did see a bunch of tractor oils at crappy tire of all grades and brands, but none of them seem to explicitly say what they are.... the diff on my z has some slop, that's what clunks when I let off the gas, I can turn the wheel by hand and it takes about 3" til it thumps the spider gear and the other wheel turns, interestingly the 87t diff I have has no slop at all.... I'll exchange the companion flange to the 86 '71c for later when I swap to stick

                  ^^^^^^^^ was looking at the various gear oils

                  on a side note I have to yank my k-car apart again, appears I rotated the hub and I have toe-out as well as the camber went positive.... bah sucks to work in the heat.... and I just did some more fence repairs....

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                  • #10
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                    • #11
                      I have got to say something about the earlier complaints of amsoil:
                      I have been very happy with the products i have tried. The most effective one was their two stroke racing oil for motocross bikes. I mixed mine at 60:1 (30:1 is recommended) and my bike would run cooler and longer on a rebuild. It also had more horsepower and torque because of the extra gas in the gas to oil ratio. Also, i noticed less powervalve stickage. Plus it cost about the same as yamalube because i was using less oil on each tank, and i was getting a hella good deal on it.

                      I have also used there transmission oils and it seemed comparable to the popular redline MT90 fix. However, some quick lube places have recently been offering amsoil engine oil changes and suggesting you could drive 7500 to 10,000 miles before replacing the oil. IMO this is terrible. At 10,000 miles that oil has to be extremely contaminated!

                      Anyways, I just wanted to add my two cents

                      thanks
                      -Mike
                      "produce first.talk second."

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