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Driveshaft Rebuild - Fair Price ?

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  • Driveshaft Rebuild - Fair Price ?

    Just was quoted a price of $270 to rebuild my driveshaft (88 T), including new yokes, transmission slip joint, u-joints and balanced. The u-joints are domestic, greasable "1310's". Seems a little on the high side, but I don't have a lot of choice. How does this sound to you guys who have been down this road ?

    Thanks,

    Jason

  • #2
    So they are really building an entire new driveshaft with the new yokes and Spicer 1310 joints?

    That's not a BAD price, but not the best. It's about what I paid because I needed a driveshaft ASAP.

    If you have a quote with dimensions and part numbers, e-mail precision shaft and see what they will do it for. I'd bet it will be under $200.

    http://www.pstds.com/
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      I have the impression that they will be reusing the tube itself, but I am not positive. As for the rest, yes, all new.

      I'm pretty much in the same shape, I still haven't bought a "real" car to drive so every day costs me a another rental car day. Sounds like a 2 - 3 day turnaround would eat the difference, this place can have it done tomorrow and is five miles from my house. Just wanted some reassurance it wasn't a complete ripoff, I haven't done this before.

      On the bright side, now that the exhaust is off for this, I have no excuse not to install the poly trans mount !

      On that topic, I may fab a transmission mount to replace the factory mount / dumbell while I'm doing it. Looks like it could be fairly simple, using some square or rec tube and mount plates, or I could cut the center out of the dumbell, drill an access hole in the crossmember to access the lower isolator bolt and weld the two together. Anyone done similar and have pics / thoughts ? Jason, I know you are working on replacements, but I'm in a now situation...

      Jason

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      • #4
        I needed to lower my tranny, so I welded a trimmed down top C plate thing without the rubber to the dumbbell piece directly, so that gives around 10mm drop, but then I replaced the rubber bushings in the dumbbell piece with poly and centered the holes, so that re-adds about 4mm height....

        I haven't swapped yet so it's academic at this point but when I do

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        • #5
          Driveshaft is in, they did re-use my tube, and replaced the slip joint, yokes and u-joints with Spicer components. Guy said they built it "just like the ones we do for 1000hp drag cars...." OK, I need to make more power...

          It's very nice, I didn't realize how much vibration I was getting out of the joint / shaft, car is quite smooth now.

          Jason

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          • #6
            I'm suprised they did not re-tube it, that would have only been maybe $50 more and they could have used a DOM tube with thicker walls which would be supposedly much much much stonger than a stock tube. Oh well, you'll probably never break it anyway.

            I also have replacement poly bushings for the stock damper bar, so you can also remove the damper dumbells and lose most of the weight from the mount while still keeping some damping in the bushings.

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            • #7
              Great, how much do I PayPal you this time , I JUST got your isolator in while doing the driveshaft....

              Are you saying just cut the dumbells off and use the center section ? I was considering that after I gave up on my welded one peice idea. I realized that I would weaken the crossmember too much by cutting a hole large enough to access the bottom isolator nut, and I didn't have the materials handy to start from scratch. I bailed and decided to get the car back together with the bad dampner bushings.

              Jason

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              • #8
                Spdstr280Z wrote: Great, how much do I PayPal you this time , I JUST got your isolator in while doing the driveshaft....

                Are you saying just cut the dumbells off and use the center section ? I was considering that after I gave up on my welded one peice idea. I realized that I would weaken the crossmember too much by cutting a hole large enough to access the bottom isolator nut, and I didn't have the materials handy to start from scratch. I bailed and decided to get the car back together with the bad dampner bushings.

                Jason
                Fortunately they are fairly easy to replace. Only takes some basic tools and yields a pretty shocking difference IMO. I have one test set left before I have them finally produced.

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                • #9
                  Selling the test set, or ?

                  Jason

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                  • #10
                    i called pst this morning and it would cost $290 for a new driveshaft tube and all built on dimension alone. it will include the larger gm serviceable ujoints and be all steel. there price is $160 less than a local driveshaft shop that i was originally going to go with. does anyone know off the top of there head what the yoke spline dimensions are for the 87-89 turbo trans? i don't have my shaft out yet to measure.


                    boost. does a body good!

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