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  • New TSS Item

    Yay! :P ...Everyone loves to see new items. I offered these in a different version awhile back and have put time into refinement of the design.
    These will be added to my online store last week in May.
    ~They will be listed for $95.00(free shipping within the US).

    *These meet the rules outlined by the NHRA(General Regulation 2:4)
    *They can be installed with-out having to remove the driveshaft.
    *They will clear the CM 3" exhaust.
    *These are curently avail. as I spent a couple days fabing up a dozen or so of them
    .



    I am here to help...

  • #2
    Looking good Dan.

    Are you selling them in the pictured finish?

    Ill be buying one sooner than later
    2005 whore magnet

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    • #3
      What you see, is what you get...hardware included.
      It is a finished product painted, heat cured...ready to go.
      I am here to help...

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      • #4
        I can vouch that its a quality piece. I bought the unfinished one at the time.

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        • #5
          Very cool Dan,

          This is a picture of my old driveshaft which broke a rear joint last year (I have upgraded it since then).



          This was a 3500rpm launch, the car moved about 5 feet before it snapped. It went 12.9 @ 114 on the pass right before with a 2.45 60' (I bogged it hard), but with a 6-puck clutch I'm not sure it has a lot to do with the amount of power being made (I believe it was just the instantaneous torque from the rotating assembly combined with the harsh 6-puck engagement that broke it).

          Had this shaft broken at the front joint, it could have been much worse. As it was it dented the catback section of my CM 3" exhaust and bounced around back there pretty good. Thankfully the rear section is mostly enclosed. If it breaks at the front the shaft could jam, locking up the rear wheels and passably tearing into the car as it does so. A driveshaft loop is a recommended safety component in my book!

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          • #6
            Jason - the rear perforated cross piece should prevent it from falling if the rear snaps, and you won't pole vault even if it doesn't, the front is the important end

            But I had an idea... say you do a re-inforcement pan 2' long 6 to 8 bolts on each side running down the tunnel, and one hoop overtop of the d/s anywhere along the length...

            This could be a very good but cheap chassis stiffener, if the pan also had a "rib" going down the middle on the bottom you could even use it as a mount point for ladder bars to the frame rails

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            • #7
              G-E wrote: Jason - the rear perforated cross piece should prevent it from falling if the rear snaps, and you won't pole vault even if it doesn't, the front is the important end
              That's exactly what I was saying.

              A DS hoop is required for a lot of events, Including drag racing a car faster than 11.99 by IHRA rules I believe. I was more or less just rationalizing the purchase of one for the reason a lot of people overlook (safety).

              I've had the idea for a }"ladder" pan for a while. The primary problem is the CM exhaust being in the way... it would take more design, material and welding to make it work well.

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