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Z31 Turbo CV Axle disassembly

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  • Z31 Turbo CV Axle disassembly

    I'm trying to remove this portion of the joint from the axle. I have already removed the c-clip that keeps it from sliding inward, but I haven't been able to get it to slide off the axle. I think that there may be another c-clip behind the splines, but there's no way of telling. I have hit it with a small sledge hammer with no luck.

    The FSM only says that these types of joints are not of the disassembling types. But that doesn't mean that the joint is not removable from the axle.







    any suggestions?
    [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
    [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
    2000 Porsche Boxster
    2007 Toyota Yaris

  • #2
    If the Turbo version is anything like the NA version then they have to be cut off. My 84 and 85 FSM show a picture and basic writeup on it on RA-7 in both.

    Basically you have to use a hacksaw and cut around the outside of the unit to get it off.

    Just in case- Black Dragon (aka Victoria British) has the inner and outer boot assemblies you will need. Page 96/97. But you probably already knew that. :wink:
    Just stand back and throw money.
    Performance costs money.
    Reliable performance costs more.

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    • #3
      Are you talking about the rubber boots?

      The NA CV axles (tripod-tripod design) are by far the easiest to dissemble and reassemble. They are just held onto the shaft with a couple c-clips.

      The turbo CV axles (birfield-offset) are pressed onto the shaft, just like the steering wheel is to the steering column, and then held in place with a couple c-clips.

      As different as both of these are, none of them require any hacking. I've dissembled both types, its just that this particular one is giving me one hell of a problem.
      [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
      [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
      2000 Porsche Boxster
      2007 Toyota Yaris

      Comment


      • #4
        bemis wrote: *snip *Snip
        The turbo CV axles (birfield-offset) are pressed onto the shaft, just like the steering wheel is to the steering column, and then held in place with a couple c-clips.
        I was just thinking that as I was reading the first post. I'm imagining it would be like taking a steering wheel off without a puller. :lol: No matter how crazy I go off on those things (very funny sight-2-see) I can't take one off without a puller, although my friends say it is possible. I'm thinking this would be the case here. Good luck.
        http://www.vgpowered.com
        Bridging the gap between VG communities...

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        • #5
          I know this is off subject but do the N/A's have the same spline on the actual shaft? Are they the same diameter?
          Shiro Special # 981 Being assembled in my spare time Chromoly acquired!
          Originally posted by BoostedMamma
          Heads up makes teh panties drop. BUT I don't have a penis OR a fast car, so I guess my opinion doesn't count.

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          • #6
            ^ yes
            imagination is a virtue

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            • #7
              Thank you, So in theory When you get a lsd you dont need to change the entire halfshaft at all, you just have to change the ends to match your stub axels.
              Shiro Special # 981 Being assembled in my spare time Chromoly acquired!
              Originally posted by BoostedMamma
              Heads up makes teh panties drop. BUT I don't have a penis OR a fast car, so I guess my opinion doesn't count.

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              • #8
                Your half shaft should already match your stub axle adaptors.
                But that only applies to the clsd. You would need vlsd half shafts
                for a vlsd.
                imagination is a virtue

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                • #9
                  Racinjitter wrote: Thank you, So in theory When you get a lsd you dont need to change the entire halfshaft at all, you just have to change the ends to match your stub axels.
                  No, the tripod-tripod halfshafts are smaller in diameter than the bir-field offset halfshafts. Neither joint will fit on a different axle.

                  You NEED Z31 VLSD halfshafts to use a VLSD. No way of getting around it.
                  [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                  [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                  2000 Porsche Boxster
                  2007 Toyota Yaris

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    um, are you forgetting charlie`s car? we installed a vlsd unit from a j30 in the diff,used the 3/2 diff flanges from said diff then swapped the inboard portion of the cv. using the z31 n/a axles (outers and shafts from an na car) with the in board 3/2 gimmics from an s13. bolted it all together and tested at a drift event last week end, it does work.

                    Exercising my constitutional right to be awesome

                    1.5.2. Podium winning cars do NOT need to be running at the checkered flag
                    good thing....

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                    • #11
                      autoworkZ wrote: um, are you forgetting charlie`s car? we installed a vlsd unit from a j30 in the diff,used the 3/2 diff flanges from said diff then swapped the inboard portion of the cv. using the z31 n/a axles (outers and shafts from an na car) with the in board 3/2 gimmics from an s13. bolted it all together and tested at a drift event last week end, it does work.
                      so youre telling me i could go to a jy whatever , get the vlsd+shafts from an s13 , and it will all somewhat bolt together?? WTF! why hasnt anybody ever tried this before??? it shouldnt cost more than 200 bucks for all the pieces ( including the extra shim for the vlsd) !! and no more peeling one wheel out!!! :evil:

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                      • #12
                        autoworkZ wrote: um, are you forgetting charlie`s car? we installed a vlsd unit from a j30 in the diff,used the 3/2 diff flanges from said diff then swapped the inboard portion of the cv. using the z31 n/a axles (outers and shafts from an na car) with the in board 3/2 gimmics from an s13. bolted it all together and tested at a drift event last week end, it does work.
                        Thank you for the confirmation. So I hope everyone learns of this soon, No more costly Vlsd or Clsd. And no more looking for a 87+ lsd from a z31 that costs an arm and first born child. Do you have any details or pictures that you can post up and make a sticky? Maybe a write up? I am sure someone else will ask, or try it and not get everything right in it.

                        I was thinking to myself "If both halfshafts have the same spline and same diameter, they should go right together"
                        Shiro Special # 981 Being assembled in my spare time Chromoly acquired!
                        Originally posted by BoostedMamma
                        Heads up makes teh panties drop. BUT I don't have a penis OR a fast car, so I guess my opinion doesn't count.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          bemis wrote: I'm trying to remove this portion of the joint from the axle. I have already removed the c-clip that keeps it from sliding inward, but I haven't been able to get it to slide off the axle. I think that there may be another c-clip behind the splines, but there's no way of telling. I have hit it with a small sledge hammer with no luck.

                          The FSM only says that these types of joints are not of the disassembling types. But that doesn't mean that the joint is not removable from the axle.







                          any suggestions?
                          I have managed remove that flange off my turbo cv it just requires even taps.Just set the shaft between to 2 pieces of 2by4 and hit the top with a hammer using a another 2by4 to protect the splines.Keep working at it will come off.
                          1986 Current build
                          HX35/40 60mm wheel,480cc injectors,nistune, spearco 2-221,6 puck,walbro fp,solid cross and diff,jason motor mounts,poly everywhere else.

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                          • #14
                            I finally got it to come off with a couple love taps from a BFH. It actually broke the c-clip into two pieces. Dosn't matter though, the boot replacement kit comes with extra clips and the like.
                            [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                            [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                            2000 Porsche Boxster
                            2007 Toyota Yaris

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              [quote]2+2turbo wrote:
                              Originally posted by autoworkZ
                              um, are you forgetting charlie`s car? we installed a vlsd unit from a j30 in the diff,used the 3/2 diff flanges from said diff then swapped the inboard portion of the cv. using the z31 n/a axles (outers and shafts from an na car) with the in board 3/2 gimmics from an s13. bolted it all together and tested at a drift event last week end, it does work.
                              so youre telling me i could go to a jy whatever , get the vlsd+shafts from an s13 , and it will all somewhat bolt together?? WTF! why hasnt anybody ever tried this before??? it shouldnt cost more than 200 bucks for all the pieces ( including the extra shim for the vlsd) !! and no more peeling one wheel out!!! :evil:
                              at the risk of getting verbaly assulted by bemis...

                              yes, if you have an na car, use the na z31 shafts, s13(or j30) axle shafts, as long as they are the 3/2 type, 3/2 diff flanges and the vlsd. use the z31 outer tripod gimmig, the z31 shaft and the s13 3/2 tripod gimmic. put it back together. i would at this point, cut the big freaking spring inside the gimmics. they are supposed to keep the axle centered in the gimmics, and you will be compressing the springs almost to the point of bottoming out, if not to that point. we will be checking soon if there is a oem quivilent to the z31 shaft, only an inch or so shorter, because this shit is a tight fit. charlie did have some noise on hard left turns at first, but it went away after the drift event.

                              now i`m assuming that if you have a turbo car with the 4 bolt flange, all you need to do is swap the hub flange with a n/a one and you`ll be good to go.

                              i should have taken pictures but i had that fucking axle grease everywhere

                              Exercising my constitutional right to be awesome

                              1.5.2. Podium winning cars do NOT need to be running at the checkered flag
                              good thing....

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