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now i feel like a fucking retard

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  • now i feel like a fucking retard

    my whole problem was the laptop . i borrowed a laptop from a friend and everything works as it should as far as live edit goes . i still have a really shitty running car though , which i think is coming from the maf . what should the voltage be for a ford corba maf at idle ? mine is kind of irratic . i also don't have an o2 and need to get that figured out as well . will a 1 wire sensor work alright for now ? i have hooked up to a autometer light show a/f gauge .


    boost. does a body good!

  • #2
    I think mine was about 1.02 volts (with a crappy voltmeter) at idle before I did the air bypass.

    If the voltage is erratic... is your air filter connected directly to the maf or is there some straight piping before it?

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    • #3
      my voltage is reading .1-.3 depending on rpm . i have pvc pipe bends to get the filter where i want it .


      boost. does a body good!

      Comment


      • #4
        I would also have to figure that the engine stumbling would cause changes in how much air it's pulling, thus affecting the maf voltage... but that's me..
        vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
        2009 370z touring/nav/sports

        Comment


        • #5
          Be sure to double check that you're getting a real good ground to the MAF. Back probe the MAF harness ground wire, and look for a deltaV to the battery ground / engine block. If there's any voltage there, it should be zero, add an additional ground wire.

          It's a somewhat common problem.
          It's RWD in reverse.

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          • #6
            jjewell wrote: my voltage is reading .1-.3 depending on rpm . i have pvc pipe bends to get the filter where i want it .
            .1volts? are you measuring at the maf output and ground at the sensor? that's way low, and might explain why it's running so rich.

            Good advice on the ground wire, didn't know that.

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            • #7
              no i didn't check the ground at the sensor . my ground probe was busted so i just went to a bolt . i'll fix my meter and try again . now if that is my real voltage will i be able to tune for that or do i need to get my money back on the new maf ?


              boost. does a body good!

              Comment


              • #8
                i just checked my voltage with good meter and i'm at .63 volts the grounds checked out and i think its all hooked up right. when i first start the car it idles at 1100rpm with an a/f around 12.8-13 . then the car warms up idle drops to around 600 rpm and runs real bad wwith afr around 16-17. the idle jumps about 150rpm in both directions. with the maf showing the voltage. i really don't know where to start now i've gone over everything 10 times now. is this all maf related ?


                boost. does a body good!

                Comment


                • #9
                  That 0.63V idle might be correct down around 600 rpm. Jason is idling around 1000 with 1V.

                  I'd try running a ground wire for kicks. It can't hurt.

                  That's way to lean for a sustainable idle. Look for air leaks, check the PCV isn't stuck, crank breather is tight, etc. Do you have a BOV that's leaking?
                  You've checked base timing, fuel pressure, plugs are tight and gapped? Ignition wires are clean and fully seated?

                  Failing all that, just turn up the boost.
                  It's RWD in reverse.

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                  • #10
                    .63 v was at 1100 rpm and 600rpm . the grounds definitly checked out ok .but i will still try a new one as well . i removed all vacuum lines from the engine and plugged them just to make sure i had no out side vac leaks . i even removed and plugged the brake booster line since the car is still on jack stands and isn't going anywhere till i know i'm getting closer to a good running setup . the pcv is gone and the valve covers have k+n breathers on them . base timing , plug gap , fuel pressure , and wires are all right on.


                    boost. does a body good!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      jjewell wrote: . the pcv is gone and the valve covers have k+n breathers on them .
                      doesnt this let in unmetered air???? i thought this was a bad idea? :?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        [quote]2+2turbo wrote:
                        Originally posted by jjewell
                        . the pcv is gone and the valve covers have k+n breathers on them .
                        doesnt this let in unmetered air???? i thought this was a bad idea? :?
                        The PCV is gone and plugged... so no air can be let in. At worst is causes a little more varnish in the crankcase over time.

                        Mine has a breater, the PCV does not really lean it out much more than .1 AFR. Plus, the o2 corrects anyway. People are silly....

                        jjewell: I think that might be the maf if voltage does not change over the 6500-1100 rev range at all, because it should. Did you already try raising the K value again, because it seems like it runs good during the warmup enrichment, but not once it's warmed up? Did adjusting the fuel mapping make any difference?

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                        • #13
                          if i raise the k value it runs super rich on startup to the point where i can't let it run in the garage or i'll die . i didn't get to change anything in the fuel mapping yet .


                          boost. does a body good!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            jason, i'm not sure if it makes a difference or not but the bin files i've been working off of are the one's you sent me . does it make a difference that your not running any of the idle control stuff in the intake . i'm not sure what you had to change to make your car idle right and where the same changes made to the bin files i'm useing . just a thought .
                            Attached Files


                            boost. does a body good!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              jjewell wrote: jason, i'm not sure if it makes a difference or not but the bin files i've been working off of are the one's you sent me . does it make a difference that your not running any of the idle control stuff in the intake . i'm not sure what you had to change to make your car idle right and where the same changes made to the bin files i'm useing . just a thought .
                              Nope, I'm not running any emissions/idle stuff either. All I had to do to get it to idle right was adjust the throttle cable and give it a couple more degrees of timing in the lowest cells.

                              How much are you raising the K? Are you converting the hex value to decimal using the calculator, then raising it 4-5 decimal values at a time? It's very weird that it would jump that rich from a small adjustment. If you're running 16-17 AFR after it's warmed up with the o2 unplugged, you can't increase the K 4 or 5 decimal at a time until you get a 13-14 AFR?

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