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Innovate! DL-32 install

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  • Innovate! DL-32 install

    I'm starting my Dl-32 install (glorified Aux Box). XD-16 and LC-1 ...
    See my progress at: http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31 ... nstall.htm

    I am in a bit of a quandry over where to put the dl-32. The serial cables for the xd-16 exit down at the fuse box area reaching to the firewall. So thats the easy spot.

    However it might be possible to put the box over on the passenger side above the ecu (still need to check if it can fit, anyone tried?).
    The box has to sit horizonal and square for the accelerometer. Problems mainly are with the wiring, this includse power (tap from the ecu?)/ground (same), LC-1 wires , tach signal from MSD, want to use the Autometer electric boost gauge signal wires (drivers side)....

    Pluses are access to tapping any ecu wires at hand, speed sensor signal, etc...

    Has anyone installed an auxboxc in the engine bay?

    Thoughts and suggestions would be most appreciated.


  • #2
    Drool.

    What about putting it in the glove compartment. You'll need to drill some holes for the cables but it should fit.

    I wouldnt put it in the engine bay at all. It's certainly not a friendly place for a device like that.

    I'd love to see some good logs when you get everything running.

    Comment


    • #3
      O2 sensor install - Is AIV bung useable for WB O2 sensor?

      Yes the glove box is an option.

      I am just going with the easiest install for now (I want logs!) .
      I will use 2 L brackets and double sided tape and mount them on the driver side firewall or fuse box side. The box needs to be mounted completely level and also you need to be able have it dismount for calibrating and setup.

      I am really looking forward to using this, I have water injection and that should mean I can run leaner. Also the JWT setup runs rich for safety.

      That and I have a gutted plenum to test out. Plus the other engine changes I want to do (cams, new turbo setup).

      I have a CM 3" downpipe installed with AIV bung. Anyone know if the AIV bung is the right thread for WB o2 sensor ?

      When putting in the down pipe I took the aiv pipe and closed it. I don't remember the size of threading.
      I just didn't want to waste my time taking out the pipe and find that I couldn't use it.

      Also if I can use the AIV bung should I use a heat sink ?

      Also has anyone setup to measure ignition Advance? How hard is that to do?

      I should have the dl-32 installed by the end of this weekend and will have the LC-1 WB O2 setup done too if I can use the AIV bung....

      Comment


      • #4
        its been a while since i had the AIV stuff in my car, but isnt it pretty close to the turbo? the O2 has to be quite a ways away from the major heat sources.. i dont think it would be a good idea to put it there (and i couldnt tell you anything about the threads) but if you did put it there you would definetly need a nice heat sink.

        Comment


        • #5
          That looks awesome. I can't wait to see the log files.

          I would install it under the passengers seat. It would be easy to run the wiring under the carpeting to the ECU and through the firewall, it would also be out of sight and harms way physically. You would also get more accurate G readings with it being slightly lower in the car.

          Not sure if the AIV thread is the same as an o2 sensor, but did G-E have that thread listed on his site?

          Comment


          • #6
            no I don't heh, I've never been able to cleanly extract one, last one I ended up hammering it back into itself to seal it and forget it heheh

            Comment


            • #7
              It's amazing how you can space out for a few hours trying to do something and not get anywhere.

              I tried to mount these L brackets to the firewall but it is not flat at all and I was trying to mount the brackets against the metal behind the insulation. No go. Not flat and no room. Would be a perfect location for the wiring.

              So now I am looking at the A/C vacuum solenoids and that spot is flat but no way to mount the box cleanly. I may use that as a temp location as the wiring will be easy and I can get my computer to it and test the box out (I want my logs, I want my logs now).

              I am thinking about using the back drivers side seat. It is flat and bare metal. Plenty of room for wires and serial cables.
              Down side to that location is having to open up the seats to get the sd memory to a reader.

              Under the drivers seat is also looks real good.

              If I remember correctly there is a hole in the carpet for the power cables for the seat...

              The serial cables they supply are not long enough for either of these locations. When I ordered I got an extra 6 foot cable but I need a micro female/female to use the cable as an extension.

              Once ther install is done there will not be too much left to do with the dl-32 , need to setup the CHTS wire and thats it.

              The other signals will go to the yet to be released SSI-4 . So I could put that next to the ecu and mabe another one for the engine bay.


              More later....

              Comment


              • #8
                Install progress continued

                So I found an electronics supply store that had the 2.5 mm stereo jacks and plugs so I could make a custom cable. What a PITA. The plugs have these micro contacts to solder to and it took a couple of trys to get it right. Get your multimeter out.

                I did not find the 2.5 mm stereo jacks at : Radio Shack or Fryes.

                I also got some 4 wire cable with shielding and I am going to use that for power, ground, tach, and map wires.

                So now i am ready to install the box under the drivers seat. Huzaa.

                Hopefully by tomorrow I will have the box up and running and then I can look at the AIV bung and determine whether I can use it or not.

                If the AIV works I will order the expensive heat sink that innovative sells.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Don't bother with the heat sink unless you end up needing it. I highly doubt you will, but if you do, you'll know anyway.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    dl-32 wired and powered, 2.5mm stereo cable source

                    I now have the dl-32 powered up with tach and map signals.

                    The serial extension cable I maded sucked and the male plug needs to be resoldered, it worked long enough to show signal on the xd-16.

                    So I looked on the web and found this supply store with 6 foot extensions and also sells a better 90 degree male plug , that would be alot easier to solder:

                    http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/pr ... ucts_id=78

                    I'll calbrate the box tomorrow and let you know if the drivers seat works out OK for level. I need to get one of those bubble top levels.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Just curious but why does the unit have to be level? Does it matter if it is vertical or horizontal?
                      Just stand back and throw money.
                      Performance costs money.
                      Reliable performance costs more.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        OR-Zman wrote: Just curious but why does the unit have to be level? Does it matter if it is vertical or horizontal?
                        Well, I think it has two accelerometers in it to measure G forces, positioned perpendicular to one another. Placing it "flat" on the car will give you the most accurate readings and "usable" datalogs for both lateral and braking G's when you're on the track, if you do that sort of thing....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Extension cables arrived, How did you get your bung welded?

                          The 2.5 mm stereo extension cables arrived today. So now I was able to connect everything together finally. I got the dl-32 calibrated and got logworks to read the dl-32.

                          I still have some setup to do. One thing is that they require you to run LM1 programmer against the dl-32 to syncronize the clock.

                          Another thing is since I don't have the O2 setup yet. I need to program the xd16 to show rpm instead of nothing. The procedure there is to hook the computer up to the xd16 and run logworks to setup/see the dl32 then run lm1 programmer against the xd16 to program the display.

                          Also I am trying to use my electronic autometer boost full sweep boost gauge #4777 , It didn't lok right, I get 20" of vacuum and the display shows -0.11 bar ? At least it is reading it.

                          The AIV bung is much too larger to use the O2 sensor. Also the way the CM 3" downpipe is made the end of the bung closes in to a small hole.

                          So where did you go you get you bung welded?
                          I need to take the downpipe off, right?
                          It would almost be easier to get another downpipe and have CM weld it on and sell my current one.

                          At least I'm making progress.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Extension cables arrived, How did you get your bung weld

                            dbruce wrote: So where did you go you get you bung welded?
                            I need to take the downpipe off, right?
                            It would almost be easier to get another downpipe and have CM weld it on and sell my current one.
                            No idea on the boost gauge, sounds like a calibration issue...

                            I just marked where I wanted the hole, took the pipe off and drilled the hole. Then I bought pipe and bung to a muffler shop and gave them $5 to weld it on. Any muffler shop should be able to do the entire process for you with the downpipe still on the car. I would guess no more than $40 or so. You might be making it more complicated than it has to be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So very complicated

                              Sounds right about the bung, hopefully I can get that done next week.
                              Maybe tomorrow if I can get some help from a friend.

                              Also I got an extra extension cable for the xd16. the xd16-out-to-computer cable is too short also. So I am going to put an extension in between there. Then I can have the computer pretty much anywhere in the car.

                              The supply company for the cables is really good. Takes paypal and they shipped out same day as the order.

                              http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/de ... 7_38_47_54

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