What plug gap do you run?

[2+2turbo]

ahem no he didnt i found it ! but um so why doesnt anybody run them?? i knew this kid that had an rx7 fc and he had a t66 ,standalone and all this crap and he ran race plugs on the street .... i just dont see why if you guys are killing plugs every 9-10k miles , why not give some race plugs a shot?? i know theyre probably triple the price of a noprmal plug tho.. but they may last longer

[Bernardd]

UPDATE

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[Jason84NA2T]

Bernard,

Tonight I installed an MSD 6A Ignition and Blaster SS coil. No difference in the break-up at higher RPM, but I did note a little more low-end response and power. Who knows, it may be a placebo effect.

I also installed an additional engine grounding strap, no difference there either. I'm going to install new BRPR7ES-11 plugs later this week if I have time. If that does not fix it then I have some Magnecor wires I will swap on.

2+2turbo wrote: ahem no he didnt i found it ! but um so why doesnt anybody run them?? i knew this kid that had an rx7 fc and he had a t66 ,standalone and all this crap and he ran race plugs on the street .... i just dont see why if you guys are killing plugs every 9-10k miles , why not give some race plugs a shot?? i know theyre probably triple the price of a noprmal plug tho.. but they may last longer

For one race plugs do not last as long as regular plugs. For two they do not have a resistor so they cause all kinds of electrical noise that can interfere with other electronics... like your radio for instance.

Have you heard of spell check?

[G-E]

I also installed an additional engine grounding strap

when I redid my electrical I ran most of the ground wires comming out of the harness to common locations, I have the battery (in the trunk) grounding to the body as well as a direct ground wire back up to the engine compartment, where it meets up with a bunch from the harness...

also I added a few straps from the engine to body as well

[Bernardd]

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[jjewell]

ken
i think it was you a few years ago that cut the electrodes down so the spark had to jump side ways across the plug . how did that work for you ? was there an improvement like slightly longer plug life or was that just a trial thing ?

[Jason84NA2T]

Bernardd wrote: I checked my datalogs and my spoolup time has dropped back to what it was with an open exhaust. It's very possible that you've got more low end response. Have you tried increasing the duty cycle map?

I may have missed it, but you added an aftermarket ignition? Driving on my way to work this morning I was just toying around and I'm almost sure it has gained response. If you were able to log a notable difference then I agree it's very possible I am experiencing that same difference with such a similar engine. It's still probably not worth the $200 or so people spend on these ignition boxes.

By duty cycle map you do mean the ttpmax settings, right?

[Bernardd]

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[Jason84NA2T]

Bernardd wrote: The duty cycle maps I'm talking about are the dwell duty . I changed the values from 233d to 253d from 8400rpm (actually 4200, it's labelled wrong in Nistune).

I'll try that tonight!

Because it was pulling fine to 7K only a few weeks ago and AFR's have been spot on 11.0 from 4000+, I'm still thinking I need to replace the plugs even though they look fine. I'll check resistance on all the plug wires too. Either way, I'll report my findings.

[grahfz]

Yep Dwell Duty..

Have you tried a new ADR file, Bernardd? I just grabbed the newest one out htere and it looks correct.

I do remember having to edit the ADR file before to correct some small issues.

[Jason84NA2T]

No change, I'm going to try swapping plugs when they arrive later this week.

[Jason84NA2T]

I can't believe I overlooked this, I feel pretty dumb right now. The distributor cap and rotor I replaced at the beginning of the summer, so I didn't figure to even pop it off and take a look. I did it while replacing the plugs and found that the was some corrosion on the terminals inside the cap. A little scrape with a screwdriver and it flaked right off. Between this and the new plugs the problem is solved; the car pulls nicely on high boost straight to the 7K redline just as it should.

I picked up some more 110 race gas yesterday, so I figure it's time to crank the boost back up to 24Lbs with 30 degrees BTDC and go have some fun making LS1 owners poop their pants this friday night :lol:

I hope the clutch doesn't start slipping again.

[Ken in AZ]

jjewell wrote: ken
i think it was you a few years ago that cut the electrodes down so the spark had to jump side ways across the plug . how did that work for you ? was there an improvement like slightly longer plug life or was that just a trial thing ?

oh yeah, I did that to delay the onset of detonation

shaving the ground strap but maintaining the proper gap.

the longer the ground strap, the harder it is for it to transfer heat away from the plug. shortening this actually makes the plug marginally cooler. how much cooler??? but every little bit helps when you have to run shi*ty 91 octane oxygenated fuel in 110 degree heat

[WhiteZ31]

very irrelevant so i apologize but i love this forum... i seriously was so oblivious/ignorant about spark plugs before this thread i mean i didnt realize all the things associated to them...

[300zxt]

So what plug gap at what boost setting? (I'll convert it to mm for my own benefit lol)

Going by the posts above I made this small table up, anyone care to add/subtract anything from it?

.040 inches = 1.01600 millimeters @ 7PSI (stock?)

.033 inches = 0.8382 millimeters @ 10PSI

.026 inches = 0.6604 millimeters @ 20PSI

Does that sound about right? Forgive me if anything is wrong, it's hard to work it out from decimal point mm to inches lol By memory stock gap is 1.1mm here, so 0.40 is close. If anyone can make any corrections please do! A correct table of what gap at what boost level would be handy for future reference!