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Cal changes for a new, fresh motor

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  • Cal changes for a new, fresh motor

    Okay, so I'm trying to fire up a new motor on an old known-good calibration. Here are the differences:

    Displacement: 3.0->3.3
    Compression: 9.0->8.5
    +ported heads
    +JWTs2 cams

    Same MAF, injectors, turbo, exhaust, etc.

    I tried firing it last night on the old code, and it didn't even pretend to want to light. I tried two older, richer chips I had laying around, and got a little better response, but it wasn't about to run.

    My question is: What would you guys recommend changing, and % wise, how much.

    Thanks!
    It's RWD in reverse.

  • #2
    That doesn't sound right. It should run.
    Double check your valve and ignition timing.
    Fuel pressure?
    imagination is a virtue

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    • #3
      I agree that does not seem right. Those changes are drastic enough to need to retune for optimum power, but not to not let the engine even idle or run right at low load. I bet something else is wrong.

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      • #4
        it's not the tune that's keeping it from running. I ran a stock turbo ecu for 15k miles on my 33, never really noticed a difference, and even the wideband is showing me good fueling.

        You're running a vg33er, I take it? I'm on a vg33e w/ the same cams.
        vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
        2009 370z touring/nav/sports

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        • #5
          It's a VG33E from a Pathfinder. Arias 8.5:1 pistons, mostly flat-top with a dish in the middle to reduce compression but retain the squish.

          The fuel pump runs and audibly builds pressure against the regulator. You can hear the whine slow.

          Timing should be +/- a degree or two. I marked the distributor and head before I pulled it apart.

          I opened up the fuel tank, which had evaporated darn near a full tank of gas, and it was basically empty, and shiny-good. Added 5 gal 100 unleaded, 5 gal 91 (best we've got at the pump), and a bottle of Techron. Changed the fuel filter.

          I called JWT and they suggested it was either the injector terminals being corroded, or the injector pintles being glued shut with fuel varnish. Mind you the cars not run for about 4 years.

          Upon inspection, the injector pins were all nasty green and fuzzy. Clark said to use diluted lemon juice to clear the corrosion, then contact cleaner to rid the acid. Worked like a champ. I'll come back and post images. Checked the winding resistance, all are 12 ohms now. Most looked open before.

          Lastly, to check the injectors are opening, I'm going to hit them with 12v and listen for activity. Will try that later today.

          Thanks for the replys! I got nothing from ztechz. In fact, I don't think anyone's ever replied to a question I posted over there... This forum is great.
          It's RWD in reverse.

          Comment


          • #6
            j30_vg33et wrote: I called JWT and they suggested it was either the injector terminals being corroded, or the injector pintles being glued shut with fuel varnish. Mind you the cars not run for about 4 years.
            I've actually had both of those problems before. For the injectors sticking I soaked the pintle caps in paint thinner or similar overnight and hit them with 13v from a car battery... they clicked right open.

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            • #7
              I put power to the injectors and they all opened audibly. If I stuttered power to them, they responded well; fast.

              So with the injector terminals cleaned, the motor lit right up on the good cal. I took it straight to 3k, and planned on holding it there for 30 min to break in the cams. It was making quite a racket at first... Added power steering fluid = better. The lifters stopped clattering in about 5 min. They were new. Over the next 5-10 min the engine got quieter & quieter, and sounded very smooth.

              Then I noticed the turbine housing glowing a little. Oh, that's cute I thought. No big deal. I kept inspecting the engine. I make my way over to the 1-3-5 bank and that manifold is glowing. Hmmm, strange. 3k, no load, engine sounds fine, nothing should be glowing. I look at the 2-4-6 manifold, which is taking not only 2-4-6 exhaust gasses, but also 1-3-5 and load from the turbine. Not glowing. Well shit. Okay look back at the 1-3-5 manifold, and that shit is cherry red. Mind you this is through swain coating... The cross-over flex coupling bellows are also glowing though the stainless braid. The 2-4-6 manifold looks fine.

              In a panic I shut the motor down. Regaining some sanity, about 5 sec later, I re-fired the motor, which started fine, and I let it idle for another 5 min to cool down. I'm pretty sure I got a good 20 min @ 3k, which should have broken in the cams and lifters. And hopefully not broken anything else.

              As to what's going on, I've convinced myself it's not ecu mapping, cause the whole motor would have been cooking. It probably wasn't an air/egr/pcv/etc leak cuz despite being a divided intake manifold, the butterfly that joins the two sides is open, so they should equalize pressure just fine. BTW the motor was pulling 20inHg at 3k.

              Coincidently, it was this rear bank that grenaded when my last motor died. So I'm thinking it's an injector issue. The engine sounded smooth, surely firing on all 6, so they must be working. After I let the engine idle for a while I rev'd it to about 5k to see if I could build some boost. Got 5-6 lbs on a lazy Autometer gauge. The wastegate is set for 8. That's cool.

              So what do you guys think? Any ideas?

              Also, back to the original thread: ECU changes for motor mods.
              My thought is that the K value should stay the same, with no injector change. I'll probably have to increase the warm-up enrichment a little. The load / timing scales are now at least 10% off, more, possibly (hopefully) much more at the upper RPM range. Meaning now the engine is probably running fat and retarded, to some degree.
              Timing and fuel maps will need to be reworked for the changes.

              Sound about right?
              It's RWD in reverse.

              Comment


              • #8
                Glowing manifolds? too much fuel or retarded timing...
                it could just be that you were holding it at 3k for an extended period of time without moving or load... I've never broken in cams/lifters on a Z. On a Chevy, yes.


                warm-up enrichment? I wouldn't worry about that. I haven't touched mine, and it pops right up and runs, even in our oh-so-cold georgia winters (lol).. unless you live somewhere that it gets extra cold and are having problems..
                vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
                2009 370z touring/nav/sports

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                • #9
                  So I checked the plugs and they all looked okay, but a touch rich. Nothing too bad for a BCPR7ES though. They always come out a little sooty. Unless you're making tons of power, I'd stick with the 6's. That's what I'll go back to.

                  I sent the injectors off to RC Engineering today to get checked. It's worth the $200 to make sure I'm not going to melt my new motor. Hopefully they'll be back by Friday.

                  Also, timing should have been 35 deg, and fueling would be closed-loop. No wide-band on the motor for break-in. Probably should have had it on.
                  It's RWD in reverse.

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