as soon as my electric fan turns on my idle a/f goes from 14.6 - 12. This is a really sucks What can I do to keep it from doing this I might switch back to the old clutch fan.
tbs
Blue & Silver 81 zxt, 88 ECCS
Z32 mas,450cc injectors
ported exhaust manifold, cable throttle linkage
t3/t4e 12psi , 3inch exhaust, K&N,
ACT clutch, 240sx t/b, 1G DSM BOV
Custom Intake FINISHED
Ported and Polished N42
Tan 88-89 conquest seats
Sperco IC 18.5x6x3.5
2.5 IC pipes
Suspension work!!
Nistune
Zeitronix Wideband
240sx transmission
Soon:
95 Maxima Alternator
The filter is infront of the radiator about 3 inches and the fan is on the back side of the radiator. I'm also rich though out the driving range as well not just at idle. I'm thinking that it might be voltage load causing the car to run differently it doesn pull around 25-30amps. I'm going to try putting back on my factory clutch type and see if it goes away.
tbs
Blue & Silver 81 zxt, 88 ECCS
Z32 mas,450cc injectors
ported exhaust manifold, cable throttle linkage
t3/t4e 12psi , 3inch exhaust, K&N,
ACT clutch, 240sx t/b, 1G DSM BOV
Custom Intake FINISHED
Ported and Polished N42
Tan 88-89 conquest seats
Sperco IC 18.5x6x3.5
2.5 IC pipes
Suspension work!!
Nistune
Zeitronix Wideband
240sx transmission
Soon:
95 Maxima Alternator
Are you logging MAF voltage at the ECU? You might see if it changes when the fan turns on. Might be something as simple as a non-shielded maf signal wire?
ok here is the log before and after the fan kicked on. my maf volts increased from 1.25-1.33 most of the time and spiked to 1.45 volts and afrs went from 13.s to 11's. is this an interference problem or what? I might just pull that fan off and go back to clutch style.
tbs
Blue & Silver 81 zxt, 88 ECCS
Z32 mas,450cc injectors
ported exhaust manifold, cable throttle linkage
t3/t4e 12psi , 3inch exhaust, K&N,
ACT clutch, 240sx t/b, 1G DSM BOV
Custom Intake FINISHED
Ported and Polished N42
Tan 88-89 conquest seats
Sperco IC 18.5x6x3.5
2.5 IC pipes
Suspension work!!
Nistune
Zeitronix Wideband
240sx transmission
Soon:
95 Maxima Alternator
Yup, it's most likely a maf signal interference issue IMO. As for exactly WHY your maf voltage increased on account of the fan, I can't tell you... but I would guess it's electrical interference (noise/crossover current) between the wiring or some kind of noise the fan is making. Check the voltage output and supply at the maf as well and see if it changes by the same amount, that will tell you if it's in the maf output (signal) wire, or something interfering with the power getting to the maf.
Is your maf signal wire running in to the ECU shielded? Where are your e-fan wires routed? Maybe you have another e-fan you could try to see if it's electrical noise from that fans particular motor? You might even be able to build yourself a passive filter and still use that fan if it is indeed electrical noise causing the voltage change.
ok I'll check out my voltages at the mas. my mas wire is shielded I'll double check the shielding to make sure its grounding. I'll also try it there with and turn off the fan to see if that helps. the wires for the fan run from the battery through a relay to the fan and ground back at the battery. Bernardd I'll send you an email shortly.
I'm just coming in from playing with the z. and its got to be something with the fan no matter what temp I turned it on at my cars a/f's increased. I also checked for the mas shield and it’s there and has continuity with the ground. What electric fans is everyone else running? I don't know what mine is its some mystery fan that I bought so I don't know. My solution is to pull out my fan and go back to the clutch style.
tbs
Blue & Silver 81 zxt, 88 ECCS
Z32 mas,450cc injectors
ported exhaust manifold, cable throttle linkage
t3/t4e 12psi , 3inch exhaust, K&N,
ACT clutch, 240sx t/b, 1G DSM BOV
Custom Intake FINISHED
Ported and Polished N42
Tan 88-89 conquest seats
Sperco IC 18.5x6x3.5
2.5 IC pipes
Suspension work!!
Nistune
Zeitronix Wideband
240sx transmission
Soon:
95 Maxima Alternator
yes it could be introducing a voltage ripple.... one more reason to use a genuine oem fan, any car manufacturer will pick better stuff with better thermal and power characteristics than an aftermarket like flexalite or permacool
with the quest alternator, I can turn on the maxima fans, no lights dim, the voltage stays dead on as if nothing happened
jason was using a camry fan, others have used honda, chrysler and ford fans with good success... go junkyard hopping
turbobluestreak wrote: do you guys have any years for those fans?
also how big is the z31 rad? This is the problem when talking z31 for the ecu and running it on a s130.
tbs
Mine is off an early 90's Toyota Crammy V6. It's wired on high and I can honestly say it moves at least as much air as most "high performance" aftermarket fans. It only covers about 2/3 of the radiator (I think it's right around 14x16), but that's apparently all that's needed to keep my engine running perfectly cool in even the hottest weather.
You could actually get any OEM fan that fits right and moves enough air, just bring a tape measure and some wire to test them while you're there. A buddy of mone got his off a Ford Tempo, and it had a shroud almost prefectly fitting to the Z31 radiator.
Z31 Radiator Dimensions:
Core Size: 16 1/8" x 25 3/8" x 1 1/4"
Top header: 1 1/2" x 25 5/8"
Bottom header: 1 1/2" x 25 5/8"
Inlet kneck diameter: 1 3/16"
Outlet kneck diameter: 1 3/16"
Rows: 2
Mount type: Bracket/Pin Mount
Distance between transmission oil cooler fittings: 11 3/4"
Construction: Copper/Brass
Mine are off of a lexus um...gs430? Some v8 toyota car platform. I don't know if that helps. OH, and they are supposed to be pusher fans, so I messed up on that one.
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