So this is what happened. I did my NA to T swap and had the car running for a few months. Ran a best of 13.7 at 12 PSI and I was happy. Then the ECU started crapping out, but only when it rained. It was really weird actually. First time it happened was after a heavy rain. I got to my buddy's house, had a couple beer and when I got out, the car just ran like shit all of a sudden. It was misfiring like crazy and blowing insane amount of black smoke. I barely got it to school the next morning and threw the scope on it. It was running around 6:1 AFR. All of my instructors looked at it and nobody could figure it out. I left it there for the day and when I got back, it was magically running great again (after I burnt the carbon off the plugs with a propane torch). I opened up the ECU and found out that it was full of water and everything was corroded. Cleaned it up nice and wrapped it in plastic, but every time it rained after that the car would run like crap. There was definitely no water in the ECU anymore, so it seems like just the moisture in the air was causing it somehow, nobody at my work or school could tell me why. It was time to look for a new ECU.
I bought one off E-bay and the guy advertised it as a 85 Turbo computer. I was driving my car during a rain and the old ECU crapped out again. i plugged the new "85 turbo" computer in and got to work no problem. That day I noticed that the car was not idling as good and backfiring a lot more than before. I just disregarded that thinking that the plugs got fouled again and cleaned them up. Nothing changed. The car was running OK, but blowing some black smoke and backfiring. I got it to the track that Friday and got a bad surprise. Even with higher boost (15 PSI) I could not run faster than a 13.8. I was pretty frustrated. I kept driving the car for a month, clocking over 3000 mi on it. Took it to the track a few time and no matter what I could not run faster than a 13.8. Finally I checked the numbers on the ECU and found out that my "85T" was actually an 87 NA.
I calculated the AFRs from the injector sizes and found out that I was running about 11:1 at no load and 9:1 at full load :?
I did not have another ECU, so I had to do with what I had. Here is a way to run your turbo injectors with an NA ECU half decently.
Take the AFM. Take out the fron wire screen on it. Take a regular pop bottle. Cut off the neck on which the cap screws on. Stick the cap into the AFM sampling tube all the way to the intake air temp sensor, the pop bottle threaded tube will fit in perfectly. Put the AFM back into your car. Now it will think that there is less air running thru, and open the 260 cc injectors for a shorter time, approximately matching the AFRs to the correct spec.
Of course, this is a band-aid fix, but it is working for me for the next week until I get a turbo ECU from Raidon.
I bought one off E-bay and the guy advertised it as a 85 Turbo computer. I was driving my car during a rain and the old ECU crapped out again. i plugged the new "85 turbo" computer in and got to work no problem. That day I noticed that the car was not idling as good and backfiring a lot more than before. I just disregarded that thinking that the plugs got fouled again and cleaned them up. Nothing changed. The car was running OK, but blowing some black smoke and backfiring. I got it to the track that Friday and got a bad surprise. Even with higher boost (15 PSI) I could not run faster than a 13.8. I was pretty frustrated. I kept driving the car for a month, clocking over 3000 mi on it. Took it to the track a few time and no matter what I could not run faster than a 13.8. Finally I checked the numbers on the ECU and found out that my "85T" was actually an 87 NA.
I calculated the AFRs from the injector sizes and found out that I was running about 11:1 at no load and 9:1 at full load :?
I did not have another ECU, so I had to do with what I had. Here is a way to run your turbo injectors with an NA ECU half decently.
Take the AFM. Take out the fron wire screen on it. Take a regular pop bottle. Cut off the neck on which the cap screws on. Stick the cap into the AFM sampling tube all the way to the intake air temp sensor, the pop bottle threaded tube will fit in perfectly. Put the AFM back into your car. Now it will think that there is less air running thru, and open the 260 cc injectors for a shorter time, approximately matching the AFRs to the correct spec.
Of course, this is a band-aid fix, but it is working for me for the next week until I get a turbo ECU from Raidon.
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