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electronics on auto-manual swap
Sense I am having problems with this I am sure others will and I think I should put this all in one post. idk if it should belong in the engine management or the driveline section but sense I don't have spark I guess ill post it here.
"All you need to know about wiring when replacing and auto with a 5spd.
1) Unless you are replacing a automatic in a 84T auto car the auto you remove is an E4N71B.
After removal you will have unplugged 3 solenoids a 4 pin connector which goes into tranny and a 8 pin connector which goes to the inhibitor switch. Inhibitor switch is the elec gadget where the shift linkage actually goes into the tranny.
a)The 4 pin connector should be taped at the harness. It is under the battery.
b)The 3 solenoids plug into a short harness that also goes to the oil pressure sensor and then attaches to the main harness with a 6 pin connector just below the battery. Tape the three connectors that went to the solenoids. Leave the 6 pin plugged into the harness and the oil pressure sensor connected. Now place the three taped connectors up out of the way where they can’t fall down and drag on the ground.
c)All that is left is the 8 pin connector below the battery (the one that connects to the inhibitor switch. If you look at the plug that is physically attached to the wires going to the inhibitor switch the 8 wires are Red/black, Black/Yellow, Black/white, Black/blue, Red, White, Yellow and Blue. We are only interested in three of them they are Red/Black Black/Yellow and Black/white.
The red/black is a ground. For starting the Black/Yellow must be grounded(connected to the R/B) however whenever this wire is grounded the cruse control is disabled. If you have a BWT5 5spd or later model Nissan 5spd with a neutral switch just connect these 2 wires to the neutral switch on the tranny.
Now car starts with tranny in neutral and cruse works when car in gear.
Now connect the same B/R and the B/W wires to the reverse switch in the tranny and now your backup lights come on when ign is on and tranny is in reverse. Don’t worry about order of 2 wires to neural switch or reverse switch as the switches just connect the 2 leads together when in the proper gear.
Also please do attach the switch that came with your clutch pedal bracket to the harness wire that is just lying there to be used. It protects your car by disengaging cruse when you step on the clutch (and make sure it and both brake switches have proper nylon bumpers to activate the switches.)
Now if you use an early Nissan 5 spd with no neutral switch I suggest this. Get a turbo headlight washer switch at junkyard. It has a hole for it pre cut in your center counsel. Just pop it in and connect the R/B and B/Y wires to it. The push the switch when you want to turn key and start car (neat theft deterrent). And once switch is released the cruse works normally.
If your car was an 84T auto it had a 4N71B auto with an inhibitor switch with only 4 pins. Looking at the plug physically attached to the 4 wires which are physically attached to the inhibitor switch place the locking tab at the top now looking into the connector with the wires exiting away from you. The upper left wire is wire 1 the lower left is 2 the upper right is 3 and the lower right is 4. Connect wires 1 and 2 to the neutral switch and wires 3 and 4 to the reverse switch.
That is it now you are wired properly"
this was taken from MMNineInchNails
Last night I messed with step C and I wired it up like it said and It now turns over with the use of my key. It still doesn't spark. Though. Just a re-cap I have bought a new coil and put in a distributor from a junk z swapped out 2 power transistors (junk yard and parts car). When the distributor was out I spun the gear with my fingers and it would fire the injectors. Then I unpluged the cas, ecu, coil wires and power transistor wires and put in an old ecu and tested the continuity on the coil wire and the power transistor wire. They read 20.9 and 20.8. I then pulled up the carpet and checked out the circit breaker and it said 2.2 ohms like it is supose to. Anyways Is the 20.9 and 20.8 the right numbers? Also I am gettng power through the cas part of the engine harness because I used a test light on it. My fuel pump is working and my injectors are fireing. Just no spark. I have 2 6 pin female connectors that are left un pluged. One is coming from the ecu harness and 1 is coming from the main harness right by the battery. Also I didn't mess with the plugs that go from the auto transmission. There are 3 plugs with 2 black wires coming out of each one and on the other end they have electrical tape that goes about 1 foot then 4 wires coming out 1 yellow with a black line, 1 red, 1 brown with a white line and 1 green wire.
Sense I am having problems with this I am sure others will and I think I should put this all in one post. idk if it should belong in the engine management or the driveline section but sense I don't have spark I guess ill post it here.
"All you need to know about wiring when replacing and auto with a 5spd.
1) Unless you are replacing a automatic in a 84T auto car the auto you remove is an E4N71B.
After removal you will have unplugged 3 solenoids a 4 pin connector which goes into tranny and a 8 pin connector which goes to the inhibitor switch. Inhibitor switch is the elec gadget where the shift linkage actually goes into the tranny.
a)The 4 pin connector should be taped at the harness. It is under the battery.
b)The 3 solenoids plug into a short harness that also goes to the oil pressure sensor and then attaches to the main harness with a 6 pin connector just below the battery. Tape the three connectors that went to the solenoids. Leave the 6 pin plugged into the harness and the oil pressure sensor connected. Now place the three taped connectors up out of the way where they can’t fall down and drag on the ground.
c)All that is left is the 8 pin connector below the battery (the one that connects to the inhibitor switch. If you look at the plug that is physically attached to the wires going to the inhibitor switch the 8 wires are Red/black, Black/Yellow, Black/white, Black/blue, Red, White, Yellow and Blue. We are only interested in three of them they are Red/Black Black/Yellow and Black/white.
The red/black is a ground. For starting the Black/Yellow must be grounded(connected to the R/B) however whenever this wire is grounded the cruse control is disabled. If you have a BWT5 5spd or later model Nissan 5spd with a neutral switch just connect these 2 wires to the neutral switch on the tranny.
Now car starts with tranny in neutral and cruse works when car in gear.
Now connect the same B/R and the B/W wires to the reverse switch in the tranny and now your backup lights come on when ign is on and tranny is in reverse. Don’t worry about order of 2 wires to neural switch or reverse switch as the switches just connect the 2 leads together when in the proper gear.
Also please do attach the switch that came with your clutch pedal bracket to the harness wire that is just lying there to be used. It protects your car by disengaging cruse when you step on the clutch (and make sure it and both brake switches have proper nylon bumpers to activate the switches.)
Now if you use an early Nissan 5 spd with no neutral switch I suggest this. Get a turbo headlight washer switch at junkyard. It has a hole for it pre cut in your center counsel. Just pop it in and connect the R/B and B/Y wires to it. The push the switch when you want to turn key and start car (neat theft deterrent). And once switch is released the cruse works normally.
If your car was an 84T auto it had a 4N71B auto with an inhibitor switch with only 4 pins. Looking at the plug physically attached to the 4 wires which are physically attached to the inhibitor switch place the locking tab at the top now looking into the connector with the wires exiting away from you. The upper left wire is wire 1 the lower left is 2 the upper right is 3 and the lower right is 4. Connect wires 1 and 2 to the neutral switch and wires 3 and 4 to the reverse switch.
That is it now you are wired properly"
this was taken from MMNineInchNails
Last night I messed with step C and I wired it up like it said and It now turns over with the use of my key. It still doesn't spark. Though. Just a re-cap I have bought a new coil and put in a distributor from a junk z swapped out 2 power transistors (junk yard and parts car). When the distributor was out I spun the gear with my fingers and it would fire the injectors. Then I unpluged the cas, ecu, coil wires and power transistor wires and put in an old ecu and tested the continuity on the coil wire and the power transistor wire. They read 20.9 and 20.8. I then pulled up the carpet and checked out the circit breaker and it said 2.2 ohms like it is supose to. Anyways Is the 20.9 and 20.8 the right numbers? Also I am gettng power through the cas part of the engine harness because I used a test light on it. My fuel pump is working and my injectors are fireing. Just no spark. I have 2 6 pin female connectors that are left un pluged. One is coming from the ecu harness and 1 is coming from the main harness right by the battery. Also I didn't mess with the plugs that go from the auto transmission. There are 3 plugs with 2 black wires coming out of each one and on the other end they have electrical tape that goes about 1 foot then 4 wires coming out 1 yellow with a black line, 1 red, 1 brown with a white line and 1 green wire.
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