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Timing values with my Microtech

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  • Timing values with my Microtech

    My Z is heating up after a high boost (15-18 psi) run for more than 6-10 seconds.The radiator is relatively new and the thermostat is new.After a run my temp gauge goes a little past the F and the Microtech reads 99 C which is close to 212 F.While cruising everything is fine. What causes the engine to overheat....advanced timing or retarded timing?


    -Stock 8.3 VG30ET Turbo engine
    -93 octane
    -420cc injectors
    -TT fuel pump
    -T04e 60-1 w/Otrim turbine inside stock exhaust housing
    -stock heat range spark plugs (6 heat range)

    Here are my timing values by RPM and the MAP corrections.

    Max timing=45

    Timing at rpm: .........................MAP correction
    IDLE = 11................................IDLE = 0
    1000 = 29.................................25" = +7
    1500 = 33.................................20" = +5
    2000 = 36.................................15" = +4
    2500 = 37.................................10" = +3
    3000 = 38..................................5" = +3
    3500 = 39..................................0 = 0
    4000 = 39...............................2 psi = -1
    4500 = 39...............................4 psi = -5
    5000 = 39...............................6 psi = -7
    5500 = 39...............................8 psi = -8
    6000 = 39..............................10 psi = -11
    6500 = 39..............................14 psi = -14
    7000 = 37..............................16 psi = -16
    8000 = 36..............................18 psi = -18
    .............................................20 psi = -21

    Any input would be helpful
    Shiro #443


  • #2
    If I remember correctly, retarded timing can cause overheating..

    For me and the vg33, there just wasn't enough radiator there for sustained highway running/boost... defroster helped ALOT... so I went with the AFCO..

    You could also be running too much coolant mix.. I've done that too.. Here in atlanta, it doesn't freeze much, so I'll put 1gal of antifreeze in it, and the rest water... never had issues since.

    Another thing you could do, is take an old thermostat, cut out the center, so you just have a restrictor plate left, and use that as a thermostat... it'll never fail, and allows the engine to warm up enough to have good defrost/heat/closed-loop.
    vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
    2009 370z touring/nav/sports

    Comment


    • #3
      This is my maroon 88NA2T with a stock VG30ET from my 88SS with the upgrades listed.
      Shiro #443

      Comment


      • #4
        Rick88ss wrote: This is my maroon 88NA2T with a stock VG30ET from my 88SS with the upgrades listed.
        lol, you give me that response every time..
        Here, I was just saying that I was overrunning the (new) stock dual-core... but the defroster made the difference needed to keep from damaging things... so that showed me that I needed more cooling capacity.

        so, what happened to the 33.. I must have missed it..
        vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
        2009 370z touring/nav/sports

        Comment


        • #5
          With only 1000 miles on the new rebuild it started making some nasty noise like a spun bearing or something.I took out the engine this past weekend and dropped off the engine at the machine shop.They're gonna tear it apart next week to see if the problem is obvious or see if they're gonna have to measure all of the tolerances on all moving parts.
          Shiro #443

          Comment


          • #6
            Rick find your self another machine shop that fucker doen't check anything.
            1988 SS TURBO BEING RESTORE.
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2238220

            Comment


            • #7
              Rick88ss wrote: My Z is heating up after a high boost (15-18 psi) run for more than 6-10 seconds.The radiator is relatively new and the thermostat is new.After a run my temp gauge goes a little past the F and the Microtech reads 99 C which is close to 212 F.While cruising everything is fine. What causes the engine to overheat....advanced timing or retarded timing?


              -Stock 8.3 VG30ET Turbo engine
              -93 octane
              -420cc injectors
              -TT fuel pump
              -T04e 60-1 w/Otrim turbine inside stock exhaust housing
              -stock heat range spark plugs (6 heat range)

              Here are my timing values by RPM and the MAP corrections.

              Max timing=45

              Timing at rpm: .........................MAP correction
              IDLE = 11................................IDLE = 0
              1000 = 29.................................25" = +7
              1500 = 33.................................20" = +5
              2000 = 36.................................15" = +4
              2500 = 37.................................10" = +3
              3000 = 38..................................5" = +3
              3500 = 39..................................0 = 0
              4000 = 39...............................2 psi = -1
              4500 = 39...............................4 psi = -5
              5000 = 39...............................6 psi = -7
              5500 = 39...............................8 psi = -8
              6000 = 39..............................10 psi = -11
              6500 = 39..............................14 psi = -14
              7000 = 37..............................16 psi = -16
              8000 = 36..............................18 psi = -18
              .............................................20 psi = -21

              Any input would be helpful
              I dont understand what the map correction numbers are? what are the +and - timing numbers?

              retarded timing puts more heat into the block because there is more fire in the cylinder as the piston is coming down instead of pressure. Although from what it looks like I would think 39 is pretty damn advanced at 3500 rpm. or does the 0 for the correction mean its firing exactly at TDC? if so that is WAY retarded. and plus 7 at 1k rpm?! that means 7 degrees AFTER tdc???!!!! thats insaine retard! wtf mate?

              I guess I just dont understand the correction factor that is given.
              85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
              04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

              Comment


              • #8
                all of the values on the left are the timing values according to rpm and the right column is the amount of timing that is added(+) or subtracted(-) depending on the vacuum or boost reading from the MAP sensor

                So if you're at 5000 rpm and 10 psi of boost, the actual timing is

                39 - 11 = 28

                Hope this clears it up.
                Shiro #443

                Comment


                • #9
                  You dont have any problems with detonation with that much timing? That seems like as a$$ load of timing for that amount of boost. Am I missing something?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    No.At least not that I'm aware of.I don't hear any when I drive it and didn't hear any on the dyno. Will too advanced timing cause the coolant to overheat? How much timing do you run at 15 psi?
                    Shiro #443

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I've been running around 15-16 btdc at about 15psi. That gets me about 330rwhp on the dyno. Are you running pump gas? I suppose detonation could cause some extra heat but I think you would notice other problems first.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What's the compression ratio on your engine? Did you try adding more timing on the dyno or is that as high as you go before detonating?
                        Yeah,I'm running 93 octane fuel.
                        Shiro #443

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          #1. Detonation (too much timing, detonation cause of over heating)
                          #2. Retarded timing
                          #3. Running leaner (hot cylinders)
                          Gone - 1988 Shiro
                          2004 BMW 330Ci
                          2005 BMW 330i
                          1991 Twin Turbo Z's (Red and Black)
                          http://www.E46Turbo330Ci.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            as for heat, you could look into getting a Nismo thermostat ($60 USD from nissan). the nismo unit opens 20deg. F lower @ 170F-ish i think 67deg. C? i believe the stock thermostat is 190deg. F

                            i have one sitting in the garage just havent hooked it up so sorry no review on its performance

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for the info.is there any other place that sells a 170 F degree thermostat?
                              Shiro #443

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