Adjusting my timing - can't get 20 degrees.

[JustinCase]

A while back i took the cap & rotor off to check to see what's makes a distributor work. I'm guessing "TDC" is the larger "square" hole on the disc. If i remember right, i'm pretty sure that i can't get that to line up right because of the shaft+cam thing is really weird. I'll check it over again tonight or tomorrow.

Stinky: I have two 84T ecu's, neither have changed anything. When you say "at the pins" do you mean checking the contacts or to check them with a multimeter? I really need to get a multimeter, but i don't think i can afford a nicer one at the moment

I have it set right now where it's drivable. Drove it this afternoon - Was hesitant and slightly bucky when cold, drove fine when warm. I know this symptom points to some random sensor but i can't recall what cold bucking, and warm normal conditions point to. Hopefully someone can point out some things to check.

I don't have a multimeter, and i don't know anyone who has a timing light.

There's a lot that could be wrong with this, i know it's hard diagnosing such problems over the net but i appreciate everyones advice.

I'll try to check everything everyone has listed.

[Dan-TSS]

Update with my scenario:

I pulled The timing belt for the very last time.
I made a tool(like the one that the FSM shows) to hold the cam gear from rolling when trying to torque the cam gear bolt.
*My findings show that I was sufficiently torqued, no damage to the index hole or cam index pin, and the timing was dead on where I had set it...so this wasn't the issue with my set-up.

I found that after looking at two other VG30 applications that do not have an MSD box installed, that the timing stays dead still on the number it is set to at idle with the timing light(even when not fully warmed up).

This application I am presently working on has a MSD6AL. The timing will move 2-3 degrees at idle but always in a very repeatable manner. There is never an instance where it stays put on the same degree mark on the crank pulley for more than 3-4seconds at a time.
Best news of all...I found that replacing the distributor with another known good condition unit fixed a small problem I kept encountering at 25-2600 rpm's.....EDITED!...Or so I thought!
*I am finding that the true culprit is ecu related. With having a z32(N62) AFM, RX-7 440cc injectors(flow tested just under 500cc), and an MSD6al ignition...there are variables I still cannot rule out. Getting the proper K and Latency isn't easy as it can be read. Trial and Error Enginemanagement tuning is fun stuff(sarcasm). I'm sure that with the help I have recieved thus far, I am leaps and bounds ahead of where I'd be if I was going at it all alone. I'm sure that the true answers to my difficulties are right around the corner, as it seems I am learning a little more what this car likes everyday. For those that have limited experience with engine tuning via romulator/live edit or Nistune, or anything remotely similiar.....Be prepared to lose hair, there's alot to comprehend and learn. I'm sure it'll be a bit easier for those waiting for the public release of Nistune...there'll hopefully be a thorough tuning start-up guide that'll get you through the trials and tribulations of most of the tuning issues. Even better, maybe the final release version will have a function "K finder"...sort-of like an idiot light to a driver.
Dan

[JustinCase]

I'm torqued and timed perfectly. The distributor (with cap/rotor off) can not align to TDC (larger square hole on disc) , it always seems half a tooth off.

My timing belt is too tight and is whining slightly so i'm going to redo it all again soon.

Sigh.

Anyone know what would cause it to act funny, slightly buck when cold and not warmed up? (which sensor)

[JustinCase]

Somehow my timing issue is working out odly. It's timed perfectly, the distributor is set the way it should be, and it's sitting in the center of it's sliding position.

My timing light reads ~30 degrees, but the car does not detonate.

It does have a slight hesitation when cold, but i don't think that has anything to do with timing. What are some things that cause hesitation when cold but go away when warm?

i forgot how fast this thing is when it's not detonating. 9:1 + boost = :twisted:

[Jason84NA2T]

The hesitation may be from excessive cold timing if you are 10 or more degrees over stock?

[JustinCase]

Jason84NA2T wrote: The hesitation may be from excessive cold timing if you are 10 or more degrees over stock?

I've run far more timing than this (when i was previously detonating) and i never had any cold start issues, only high-rpm det.

Shrug.

[Timbo_021]

Make sure the TPS is functioning properly.i had this problem,the timing would also jump around every minute till i fixed the TPS.

[MaximumQ]

I had a similar issue, and car would only idle properly around 25 degrees or so. I was pitching heavy black smoke and my car smelled like fuel all the time. I failed smog so miserably that a "hook-up" guy couldn't even massage the results.

I was working on the car with a buddy doing a tune-up and searching for the solution, we checked and re-verified that the belt timing was 100% correct. But then we checked the distributor and discovered that it was one cog off (wasn't pointed at #1 at TDC). Pass side plugs were normal; Drv side plugs were fouled when removed.

I haven't gone in for re-smog yet, but black smoke and fuel smell is gone completely. Also, mileage has gone up by 4-5mpg, and there's a noticeable increase in power.

Hope it helps, if you haven't already resolved the issue.

[z300take]

Re: Adjusting my timing - can't get 20 degrees.

I'm having the same timing problem where as I can't get 20 BTDC with the light, I've revisted the timing belt 4 times, only the first time was it off a tooth. At present from right to left I',m seeing the round holes on the turbo crank pulley and 30 and 24 as I turn the distributor. I'm reaching here, but I've noticed the distributor gear has 13 teeth and 13 slots as well, so with the distributor out I'm going to set the pulley at 4 1/2 degrees BTDC and see if there will be a correct reading when I mesh her back in. Have you found your solution yet?