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Slight cam differances

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  • Slight cam differances

    What is the slight perfomance differance in the following cams
    Stock 252/252 .393/.393
    European 264/262 .393/.393
    Schnieder 262/262 .420/.420

    Is there enough differance over the stock with a Euro or is it best to go with a regrind.The can is an 86NA with other mods, heads, intake, header alum. FW, driven weekends in the NYC area, will also be used for some autocross
    What, me worry? It just takes a little time, patience and thought!

  • #2
    johnblye wrote: What is the slight perfomance differance in the following cams
    Stock 252/252 .393/.393
    European 264/262 .393/.393
    Schnieder 262/262 .420/.420

    Is there enough differance over the stock with a Euro or is it best to go with a regrind.The can is an 86NA with other mods, heads, intake, header alum. FW, driven weekends in the NYC area, will also be used for some autocross
    In your car - Stock 252/252 .393/.393
    10+HP increase rated by Nissan - European 264/262 .393/.393
    Guessing 10-15hp from this grind - Schnieder 262/262 .420/.420
    and you can go bigger... but for autocross you're going to want as much midrange torque as you can get, and you lose that as you increase duration. I believe Russ made the same decision between these 3 grinds for his NA autoX car.

    How "worked" are your heads? I believe nobody has truly built an NA to make some power and with a lot of development work on both on heads and intake they could be built to make substantial power.

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    • #3
      Oh how worked am I

      The heads are going to get a lot of work porting & polishing. I am using Ferrea valves (stock size) JWT springs (singles) and new seals & lifters. I will add a L & P plenum and port & polish the lower. As you know I am getting the spacer from you. I am very strongly looking at coating everything by SWAIN. This is for dependablity and engine life more so than power. http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=8537&catid=19694 I will use a JWT till 2007 then switch to NisTune.

      The lower half is in great shape, might do it now or wait a year and play with what I have. Since I want the car to stay streetable, Abe at MSA & Jerry at Schneider feels the stage 2 cam (262/262 .420/.420) would be a good choice. Russ and I are talking, and taking a very similar path 225 to 250 bound. I already have a set of gears planning to retard 3 degrees. A set of Europeon cams are available and the numbers are close to the regrind so this is why I need input. I lack the real world knowledge so any comments appreciated.
      What, me worry? It just takes a little time, patience and thought!

      Comment


      • #4
        Forgot to mention

        I already added a team green, dual core rad. & efan, but after talking with chris86na2t, we live in the same area, I'm working on changing to a vertical alum. rad. w/fan and moving the cold air intake in front of this set up and making a forced air intake in the nose. Logic says this might be the best set up for an NA.
        What, me worry? It just takes a little time, patience and thought!

        Comment


        • #5
          i have euro cams w/ stock compression and no head work currently. if you want to auto-x, absolutely go with the pathfinder intake. esp with the mild cam grinds you are looking at. i have a gutted and very re-worked 200sx manifold and it really only wakes up at around 3500, when i auto-x i switch manifolds back to my pathy. the low to mid range is around a 20hp 20ft/lbs improvement (as posted by others) and it feels every bit of that. the difference in my 510 can noticed this way: 200sx- fairly hard shift into 2nd =chirps. Pathy- fairly hard shift into 2nd =uncontrollable wheel spin. both in the dry. Ive swapped back and forth many times and each time its the same. I'm hoping the biggest grind schneider makes along with over 10.5:1 compression will compliment the gutted manifold in the future. retarding the cam timing with the pathy only gives a little better over-run past 5,500 rpm but it is still not its best part of the power band, retarding 6deg let it at least pull to fuel cut but killed the mid range. O deg 'seemed' to be the best per the ass-dyno. HTH

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