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E-Fan Wiring..

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  • E-Fan Wiring..

    So I've got a cheap e-fan I picked up, and I was looking at hooking it up for a little extra HP and to get rid of that truck-like fan noise.

    My question: Does anyone have the writeup or know how to utilize the stock AC relays/stock cooling switches so I won't have to buy an aftermarket thermostat to power the fans. I would also like utilize a switch so I can turn the fans off/on manually if needed.

    I've seen a couple set of writeups, but nothing that utilizes stock hardware: ... -Fans.html

    I'm not looking for anything fancy, just something that will work and not burn my car down. Thanks

    Also, nothing like this: ....ugh...
    It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...

  • #2
    Is this like what you were looking for?

    I really do not remember who made this, but they deserve all the credit. I just have this nasty habit of saving everything I find interesting and not remembering who posted it.


    • #3
      if you swap to a maxima alt you will have enough power to run it constantly and have no negative effect on the charging...

      I have maxima fans and I wired them in to run at all times on low (each fan has 4 leads) essentially you power each twice for high, so I have thermostats running the extra power for high

      but like I say you can have it always on, the stock clutch fan always spins...


      • #4
        I would not suggest having the E-Fans on all the time. There is a reason they put clutches/ switches on them. There is such thing as too cool.

        I picked up a adjustable electrothermostatic switch for 80 bucks from local store. Turns out that you can get them for about 40 on the net. Variable from 90-270. Easy to install.

        Link to site- ... toview=sku

        Helped out alot, Can hit 60 in second with out hesitation. Any problems if you do get that unit, let me know.
        good luck

        Terrible idea putting those wheels on...


        • #5
          Yeah....those look good.

          But the write-up I remember involved basically just the A/C relay and maybe a 180f coolant switch to control the relay.

          I guess I can just try some different stuff and see what works.
          It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...


          • #6
            yeah you can totally make one yourself with a spare relay, a temp switch and some soldering/wiring.

            It is nice to have the adjustability. I drove around for about a week with out anykind of cooling fans. But once it hit a little bit warmer weather, i turned the switch back a little just to be safe.

            Terrible idea putting those wheels on...


            • #7
              Sorry, maybe I forgot to make it clear...

              I'm looking for the most "cost effective" method of hooking up the fan. And I'm looking for it to be more than just a switch I run to the center console.

              F uck it...I'll just wire it to a switch and see how I like it.
              It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...


              • #8
                I have a therm switch for mine ($50 from summit I think) but I've not hooked it up yet. I have it wired on a switched ground and I've never forgotten so far, but I'm the type of person that compulsively checks my dash gauges anyway. The fan is loud enough and moves so much air that I can tell as soon as I open the door if it's still running once I've turned the car off.


                • #9
                  Maybe just hooking it to the A/C relay with no switch would be a better idea. Then I really can't foget to turn it off.
                  It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...


                  • #10
                    I don't have AC. I use the AC relay trigger to my thermo switch and to the relay. If you have AC, you can make all kinds of fun circuits. I have a simple philosophy on the Efan. It turns on when the engine is warm, at full blast. It runs full blast till the temp switch or the ign. switch shuts it up.

                    I got a new max fan today, and its very interesting in that the frame is more sturdy than my old one was (and the old one failed due to the plastic frame breaking and kabooom goes the radiator), also the motors on this fan use 10 guage wires as opposed to the other one that used 12 or 14. I have this thing wired up and it puts out probably twice the air of the previous max fan. I wish I knew the years and stuff but I just needed a fan and went yanking.

                    Anyway, no fancy graphics but for an AC system, and since I just did this today - still please check pin numbers in case I am mixing numbers. I used a blue 30A nissan four pin relay:

                    Run power from your battery to the relay for the fan, pin 3 on a Nissan blue 30 amp, run power from 5 to the fan
                    Run power from the "1" pin on your AC relay (in the box by the pass fender) to the fan thermo switch + (which you should buy) and to pin 1 on the fan relay. This powers the thermo switch for normal non AC operatoin
                    If you have AC, run an additional wire from the pin 2 on your AC relay (in the box), and run that wire directly to pin 1 on your fan relay.

                    I am probably nerk and may have missed up some pins, but this should result in the following operation:

                    Car is on: power goes to thermo switch.
                    Car is on and warm: power goes through thermo switch and triggers fan relay, fan is on
                    Car is on and AC: AC relay closes, and sends signal directly to fan relay, fan is on, regardless of thermo temp

                    If you are using a max fan, the best wiring for high speed operation is run the blue and green to + and the black and yellow to -. I had an earlier version of the max fan where I didn't check the yellow to ground. The fan pumps like mad when you ground the yellow. My car was great without the yellow connected except under sustained boost where it would start to heat soack after like 5 minutes of mostly constant boost. I am confident the new fan with the yellow wire trick is blowing at least 2500 cfm. It's a badass fan. It runs like twice as much with the yellow grounded. This was a serious oversight on my part in the last time i wired one of these up. I tested the yellow to + and it slowed the fan, never tried it to ground at that time. Silly.
                    "If you don't hold don't own it"


                    • #11
                      that's how the maxima has the high and low setup, you power the second set of brushes when you have the a/c or something like coolant is too hot

                      and yes it blows like mad on high, and considering how well it fits, it's a wonder so few people use it


                      • #12
                        My write-up is here:

                        located within my website here:


                        I just hooked up the control relay of the second set of Maxima e-fans pictured on the website in my '86 2x2 with the "hot" wire of the "exhaust by-pass valve" located next to the ignition coil. It is always "hot" when the car is ON and when the car is turned OFF, the fans run for a couple seconds longer and then shut OFF. If your Z didn't come with this gizmo, then just find an ACC/ON wire within the engine bay and tap into that. There's no need to make a second circuit to control the e-fans when the A/C compressor turns ON if the fans are always ON.
                        [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                        [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                        2000 Porsche Boxster
                        2007 Toyota Yaris