? about ZEX or equivelent plugs???

[SATAN]

I'm gonna grab some ZEX plugs which are designed for a nitrous/turbo application. My question is this.

Are the ZEX plugs naturally a colder range plug? They offer the part number of xxxxx-4 or -6 or-8. They recomend running 2 ranges colder for obvious reasons.

BUT does that mean you would take the stock NGK heat range and then run a ZEX plug that is two ranges colder from there.

OR

would you run the zex plug with the same heat range as the OEM heat range, and in turn that would be equal to 2 ranges colder just because of the design of the ZEX plug?

Little confused with this.

I know a lot of you will chime in saying "Just get some NGK's that are 2 ranges colder" So on that note save yourself some typing and dont type it.

[SATAN]

Ok, just found out from a different board that you take the stock OEM heat range and ask for a ZEX plug that it two ranges colder.

[GotFast?]

Just get yourself some two step colder NGK's.

Sorry I had too.

You are correct. Ask for two ranges colder then the stock plugs.

[SATAN]

GotFast? wrote: Just get yourself some two step colder NGK's.

Sorry I had too.

You are correct. Ask for two ranges colder then the stock plugs.

Ok, new question



They say they have two type

Type one= .750" reach, 14mm thread
Type two= .708" reach, 14mm thread

Does "reach" mean how far the plug protrudes? How far it sticks into the combustion chamber? Or how far certain parts stick into the chamber like the grounding strap or what?

[2+2turbo]

i wanna say its how long the threaded part is .... google it!!!

http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

[SATAN]

2+2turbo wrote: i wanna say its how long the threaded part is .... google it!!!

http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

Spark plug gap is the distance between the center and side electrodes. Normal gap specifications range between .030 to .060 inch. Smaller spark plugs gaps are used on older vehicles equipped with contact point ignition systems. Spark plugs are either resistor or non-resistor types (fig. 2-46). A resistor spark plug has internal resistance (approximately 10,000 ohms) designed to reduce the static in radios. Most new vehicles require resistortype plugs. Non-resistor spark plug has a solid metal rod forming the center electrode. This type of spark plugs is NOT commonly used except for racing and off-road vehicles. Spark Plug Heat Range and Reach The heat range of the spark plug determines how hot the plug will get. The length and diameter of the insulator tip and the ability of the spark plug to transfer heat into the cooling system determine spark plug heat range. A hot spark plug has a long insulator tip that prevents heat transfer into the waterjackets. It will also bum off any oil deposits. This provides a self-cleaning action. A cold spark plug has a shorter insulator tip and operates at a cooler temperature. The cooler tip helps prevent overheating and preignition. A cold spark plug is used in engines operated at high speeds. Vehicle manufacturers recommend a specific spark plug heat range for their engines. The heat range is coded and given as a number on the spark plug insulator. The larger the number on the plug, the hotter the spark plug tip will operate. For example, a 54 plug would be hotter than a 44 or 34 plug. The only time you should change from spark plug heat range specifications is when abnormal engine or operating conditions are encountered. For instance, if the plug runs too cool, sooty carbon will deposit on the insulator around the center electrode. This deposit could soon build up enough to short out the plug. Then high voltage surges would leak across the carbon instead of producing a spark across the spark plug gap. Using a hotter plug will bum this carbon deposit away or prevent it from forming. Spark plug reach is the distance between the end of the spark plug threads and the seat or sealing surface of the plug. Plug reach determines how far the plug reaches through the cylinder head. If spark plug reach is too long, the spark plug will protrude too far into the combustion chamber and the piston at TDC may strike the electrode. However, if the reach is too short, the plug electrode may not extend far enough into the cylinder head and combustion efficiency will be reduced. A spark plug must reach into the combustion chamber far enough so that the spark gap will be properly positioned in the combustion chamber without interfering with the turbulence of the air-fuel mixture or reducing combustion action. Figure 2-46.—Sectional view of a (A) non-resistor and (B) resistor spark plug. Spark Plug Wires The spark plug wires carry the high voltage electric current from the distributor cap side terminals to the spark plugs. In vehicles with distributorless ignition, the spark plug wires carry coil voltage directly to the spark plugs. The two types of spark plug wires are as follows: SOLID WIRE—Solid wire spark plug wires are used on older vehicles. The wire conductor is simply a strand of metal wire. Solid wires cause radio interference and are no longer used on vehicles. RESISTANCE WIRE—Resistance spark plug wires consist of carbon-impregnated strands of rayon braid.

[VG36ET]

Satan - Let me ask you this, What's your current whp goal? Mine is 700 @ the crank and a two range colder NGK should be perfect but I'm not sure what Ignition system I'm gonna end up running. I ran the Zex plugs on my HOnda back in the day and they kept detonation in check but for less money I could have run NGk's that are probably better quality.

Maybe somone that (thinks) they know it all here will chime in with an elaborate disertation on Colder Spark plugs and Ignition systems and relative gap size...lol!

[SATAN]

VG36ET wrote: Satan - Let me ask you this, What's your current whp goal? Mine is 700 @ the crank and a two range colder NGK should be perfect but I'm not sure what Ignition system I'm gonna end up running. I ran the Zex plugs on my HOnda back in the day and they kept detonation in check but for less money I could have run NGk's that are probably better quality.

Maybe somone that (thinks) they know it all here will chime in with an elaborate disertation on Colder Spark plugs and Ignition systems and relative gap size...lol!

Yeah, see I dont know if I really want to do the ZEX plugs. They are like 5 bucks a pop. They advertise 3 grounding straps as being a good thing. In my mind that is just two more places for heat to start building up to start detonation. That and ZEX is probably made BY NGK who knows.

I need to learn more about plugs thats for sure. A simple device isnt as simple as most would think for the perfect application. I'll prolly do some research tonight. I think I would like to run a NON resistor type. But not sure yet. I figure stuff out and get back to this thread later. I found a diagram of what every possible NGK number and letter means that they make. Its pretty cool, maybe I'll post that later too.

My goal for crank HP is prolly like 900-950 PEAK. Trying to make 750-800whp. If that means I gotta run 3 ranges colder so be it. So they foul out easier, oh well

As far as running a colder plug, Yeah I know I need to do that and I also need to close the gap down to about .030" thats basic stuff tho. I want to get into plug design stuff. Everyone makes plugs that are colder in range but the designs could be different. THATS what I need to know.

[onefast87]

i would go with something a little better than ZEX plugs!
it seems like your spending lots of money on your car, dont cheap out on soem good plugs!
get DENSO IRIDIUM, they are hard to find and rather expensive, but worth every penny

[VG36ET]

onefast87 wrote: i would go with something a little better than ZEX plugs!
it seems like your spending lots of money on your car, dont cheap out on soem good plugs!
get DENSO IRIDIUM, they are hard to find and rather expensive, but worth every penny

I agree bout not *cheaping out*, that's just good common sense. With any machine you have to consider the weakest link/s. Can you elaborate on these plugs? If they're so great then why are they hard to find? Not many know bout em?

[SATAN]

onefast87 wrote: i would go with something a little better than ZEX plugs!
it seems like your spending lots of money on your car, dont cheap out on soem good plugs!
get DENSO IRIDIUM, they are hard to find and rather expensive, but worth every penny

With everything that I have just spent the last half hour reading about Iridium plugs. They are just a new EXPENSIVE way to make lazy peoples lifes easier. You dont have to change them as soon. thats the jist of it.

The market has been flooded with propoganda of why Iridium is the best to use. Iridium acctually DOES NOT conduct as good as copper. It requires more energy to make the spark with a Iridium plug that it does a copper plug. HOWEVER Iridium does have a way higher melting point than copper. BUT this is not a problem if you are useing the proper heat range of the plug to begin with. Over all, so far it seems like some good ol fasion NGK just may be the way to go. Still researching...

[SATAN]

Man! maybe my searching skills suck or somthing but I can not find any GOOD info on spark plugs. Its mostly just propoganda with people saying why the plug they sell is the best. Its hard to justify spending meney on Iridiums when the only thing I hear about them is that they last longer. I could care less how long they last in a race engine :roll: I'll mostlikley get new ones everytime I go to the track anyways.

Prolly gonna run some normal copper ngk's BRP9ES due to the fact that BCRP6ES exploded on me and destroyed a piston in my last engine!


Oh and for onefast87- The leading manufacturers of the Iridium spark plugs are Denso and NGK.

The reason the Denso's are suposedly better is that the electrode is .4mm also the ground electrode is a "U-groove" which equals the following...
"Our patented U-Groove design changed the industry standard in the mid 1970s by providing a better design that virtually eliminates erratic starts caused by poor fuel mixture. The U-Groove results in less flame dissipation making the spread of the flame nucleus easier and therefore yielding greater firing energy. It gives the flame a groove to grow in, thereby creating a larger flame front for a complete combustion.

On a conventional plug, the flat electrode design crushes the spark, and the overall volume of the flash front is smaller.

The conventional method to improve firing was to increase the spark gap. This has a negative effect on the spark. With a U-Groove firing can be greatly improved without increasing the spark gap."

The NGK center electrode is .7mm. Both are supposed to be a good plug and are the only two plug makers that can claim they have and actual IRIDIUM plug.