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moved my chevy alternator to the passenger side.

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  • #16
    its internally regulated.

    i ran a 0/1 gauge welding cable from the alternator to the battery.

    if you want a picture i can snap one.

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    • #17
      ^same here. I got some 4 gauge auto grade wire to run directly to the battery. Routed back along the driver side and across the firewall. Hardly noticeable unless you actually look for it.

      Considering the alternator $87 shipped, and about $15 for wire and 2 crimp fittings I am very happy with the end results and the total cost.

      I should have though to have my alternator tested before I installed it. Damn, that would have been good info to have and share.
      Just stand back and throw money.
      Performance costs money.
      Reliable performance costs more.

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      • #18
        To find a massive upgraded Chevy alternator(200+ amps) is VERY easy. To find a nissan 200+ amps is VERY hard!

        SO for those of you like my self who like to run the amps that require 150 amps of current (MTX 81000D) and large subs then this upgrade is for you! Quit trying to stuff a 100000000 farad capacitor in there thinking everything will be ok. There is only ONE GOOD WAY to do it. That is running the alternator with the juice needed.
        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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        • #19
          ^agreed absolutely, but you only adressed part of the reason why a Z31 owner would want a better alternator.

          Sorry guys but there is no way in hell I am paying money for a USED Maxima alternator. Ya, I know, not enough money for a new one. Why do you need more than 70amps if you don't have a bunch of stereo stuff? This is the argument that comes up every time. Lots of reasons. The stereo is a minor consideration overall.

          OK, why do you need 90 amps over the 70amps stock for those of you who have them? If 90 is acceptable what is wrong with 100 amps or as Satan posted 200+? Realistically most of us don't need the 200+, but you are kidding yourself about a used 90 amp alternator vs a new 100 amp. Lets get real.

          If you think you need the extra amps for the 90 then the 100 damn sure cant hurt.

          Here is the issue. There are these little electrical components inside you alternator. Things like over loading them, long term usage and age tend to be detrimental to their life. So, as these little gizmos give up their lives to the electrical gods you get less and less "juice" from your alternator. (btw- this is a bad thing for everything electrical in you car) Unfortunately this is typical scenario happens over time and the owner really doesn't know its happening until the alternator completely dies. During this process you are starving your electrical system of it's needed current. Not good, especially on a 20+ yo car.

          Then eventually you are dead on the side of the road because your alternator finally couldn't stand the load any longer. Unfortunately old electrical components don't last forever. :shock:

          If you are comfortable with using used junk yard electrical parts then go for it. Personally I just don't understand that mentality. With something as critical as the alternator... I will venture on the side of caution and get something that is new and actually pay for it.

          I can say that my 100amp Chevy alt was worth every penny and the difference in electrical performance overall was very noticeable. Visually, butt dyno and stereo response. Ya, I know...how can a 100 amp alternator help performance...yep, in most peoples minds this is counter intuitive. But...if your electrical system is more efficient then your ignition system is more efficient and your combustion is more efficient. hmmm...that means better fuel burning and better spark and better combustion and all that other "good stuff"

          Quite honestly I really don't understand the reluctance in this community to upgrade a barely adequate stock electrical system with something that is new, reliable and warrantied. Adding to Satan's comment earlier, adding capacitors is...well it is the idiots way for compensating for an inadequate electrical system unless you have a super whamadyne competition system that is running all kinds of crazy stuff. That doesnt apply to anyone here as far as I know. If you have a capacitor for your stereo...sorry dude..."here is your sign" you got duped. Don't even get me started on stupid stereo install BS. I could go on with that for days.

          I swear if I hear about only needing a better alternator because you have a big ass stereo system I am going to explode. That is completely missing the point. Go back to the electrical drawing board and the come back with a real idea.

          deep breath...rant over. I said my peace. :wink:
          Just stand back and throw money.
          Performance costs money.
          Reliable performance costs more.

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