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  • New NA2T Swap......n00b questions

    NA2T swap is complete, and I'm hunting down a weird brake-like rattle in the front before putting her on the road.

    Test drove her yesterday, and with the new tranny, new clutch and turbo bits.....she pulls WAY better.

    Question: I don't have the boost sensor or det sensors wired up. I do have both sensors and a full turbo harness on the side (it was forgotten in the fray). Here are my n00b questions:

    1. I already know that I can live without the det sensor, but what about the boost sensor?

    2. I've heard arguments for putting a check valve on the brake booster to prevent positive boost to the brakes. Yes or No, and why?

    3. Turbo vac cannister and vac motor. Yes or No, and why?

  • #2
    I have a complete NA engine bay with a turbo slapped on. I have no issues with my brake booster, or vac lines.

    I think the boost sensor is for the digital package, right? As long as you have no open vac lines you don't need it (unless you're running a digital package and want the rising feature) I think the only major vacuum related part adjusted by boost, is the FPR.

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    • #3
      MaximumQ wrote: NA2T swap is complete, and I'm hunting down a weird brake-like rattle in the front before putting her on the road.

      Test drove her yesterday, and with the new tranny, new clutch and turbo bits.....she pulls WAY better.

      Question: I don't have the boost sensor or det sensors wired up. I do have both sensors and a full turbo harness on the side (it was forgotten in the fray). Here are my n00b questions:

      1. I already know that I can live without the det sensor, but what about the boost sensor?

      2. I've heard arguments for putting a check valve on the brake booster to prevent positive boost to the brakes. Yes or No, and why?

      3. Turbo vac cannister and vac motor. Yes or No, and why?
      I didnt have the check valve in my brake booster, and I got in boost, and let off and tried to brake it was STIFF AS a freaking rock! But after about 1 1/2 seconds after the throttle body is closed vacuum builds back up and I have brakes again, it was a very scary and dangerous experience, but I popped in that check valve and all is good now. (dont install it the wrong way like I did hah).

      About the Detonation sensor, I did NOT run it and am not running it, from personal experience like you have seen in my thread today do NOT stay in to boost for to long or get ready to be in my shoes.
      1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
      ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
      1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

      Comment


      • #4
        Where'd you buy your check valve? Do you have a pic of it?

        Thanks for the advice, I'll ignore the det sensor and now have a good idea about the boost sensor. I'm putting in a/f and boost gauges next week (I've been running kind of rich and want to monitor it), so that should take care of my boost gauge needs.

        Any advice on the vacuum cannister? On the turbo, it has a motor attached.

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        • #5
          detonation sensor is only active during light cruising... the ecu assumes you will be much richer at wot so in theory you should break up long before you need to worry.... if you do pop at wot and high rpm chances are a sensor won't help you hah
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            I don't know about you guys, but my '87 NA2T had a check valve stock and I'm fairly sure (but not positive) that my '85NA had it as well.
            Funny stories!

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            • #7
              my NA has a check valve in the booster line as well.

              when you are at wide open throttle in an NA there isn't any vacuum anyway.

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              • #8
                homestar wrote: I don't know about you guys, but my '87 NA2T had a check valve stock and I'm fairly sure (but not positive) that my '85NA had it as well.
                Mine didnt, I got it off a turbo Z at the junkyard.
                1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
                ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
                1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

                Comment


                • #9
                  84z31 wrote: when you are at wide open throttle in an NA there isn't any vacuum anyway.
                  Technically there is still vac in WOT. It's never 0 pressure in a NA motor, unless it's turned off.

                  If you have a boost gauge you will see 1-2 vac when in WOT.

                  Also, my brake booster has a check valve factory. 89NA2T

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                  • #10
                    yes,

                    there should always be about 1" hg at WOT. no less or your engine fuel economy will really suffer on an NA.

                    but is it even negliable at WOT. that was the point i was making.

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                    • #11
                      Well, there's a difference between 0 pressure in all cylinders at WOT, and vacuum in all cylinders at WOT.

                      NA's are always gonnna be suckin' - literally.

                      It's the reason we fill em up with turbos!!! :twisted:

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                      • #12
                        if its not suckin its not runnin :wink:

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