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Hey guys im in the process of getting my NA VG block ready to go turbo by replacing the piston rings plus rod and crank bearings. Im gonna give the cylinder walls a slight hone since the motor has 220,000 miles and could use it. I was out in the garage earlier today practicing honing on a spare block before I attacked the one I actually plan to use. Im using a Silicon Carbide flex hone chucked into an electric drill. The problem Im having is getting a decent 45 degree cross-hatch pattern. I dont know if im stroking too fast of if im running the drill too fast. Any suggestions. Ive tried a few different things and keep getting the same results. Mostly like a close to 90 degree pattern across the cylinder.
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When I worked at this motor shop, I did a few main hones and mostly rod bushings. With them, I just basically kept doing it and figuring out my speed and eventually I was able to somewhat match it to how my boss showed me. (its funny, everytime I did a set of eight rods the last one always looks a million times better than the first)
All I can suggest is keep practicing. And it should start to run the way you want it too.
Are you using an inside mic to be sure you're not removing more material in one spot then the other? Stones tend to cut more on one edge. At least I noticed when I did it. -
First off, you didnt mention if you have you measured cylinder out of round and taper to determine if you just need to deglaze, hone, or bore and hone the cylinder bores.
Getting the correct crosshatch for the rings you are using can be very difficult if you've not done it before. I can't make any recommendations because it seems like I really can't use a drill for the hone without messing it up, I just suck that much.Comment
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I havnt mic'ed it yet to be sure because I'm waiting to borrow one from school once I go back next week. So I don't have that info yet. Mainly I was just looking for some tips to get a bettern pattern once I am working with the block that is gonna be put into use.Comment
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use a dial bore gauge instead of a mic, lots easier to use and you will get alot better repeatability than with an inside mic..Comment
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I take mine to the machine shop and they charge me 8 dollars a hole and it comes out great. I dont have spare blocks that I can practice on. That and when the shop charges so little to do it.....
They also measure everything and make sure it is good too. At least the shop I go to does. :roll:85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.Comment
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Ill see what they have at school but last time i checked they only have those telescoping things u lock at the width of the bore then u take it out and measure it with an outside micrometer. Thanks for the help guys, yea SATAN is right its probably better off if I just look around for a machine shop to take care of everything for me.Comment
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DON'T USE THOSE!Z31SPL wrote: Ill see what they have at school but last time i checked they only have those telescoping things u lock at the width of the bore then u take it out and measure it with an outside micrometer. Thanks for the help guys, yea SATAN is right its probably better off if I just look around for a machine shop to take care of everything for me.
fuck, I had to use the transfer gauges in phase 1 at UTI, and boy do they suck ass for measuring bores accurately with repeatability
put down a little cash for the dial bore gauge, or have a machine shop do your cylinders, if they are out of round or tapered but machineable, find a shop with a torque plate to do it for you
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[quote]Andrevas wrote:I've used t-guages all the time. If you know how to use one CORRECTLY it's just as accurate as an inside mic or bore gage, it just takes longer to do.Originally posted by Z31SPLComment
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[quote]Jason84NA2T wrote: [quote=Andrevas]Originally posted by Z31SPL
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x2.. I use a snap gauge at home, and although it's not as fancy or easy to use as the sunnen dial bore at work, it repeats just fine.Comment
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To answer the original question for folks searching like me, you really need a drill that turns slowly to get a good hone. Either beg for/borrow/steal an adjustabI tried to hone a block with a single speed black and decker drill and could not get it to turn slowly enough no matter how hard I tried by doing little short bursts with the trigger. I then used an air drill and adjusted the flow to turn the hone REALLY slow and the hone worked like a champ.
You will be able to tell if you have a good crosshatch pattern just eyeballing it. I wondered if I just didn't have a good enough eye when I was trying to make the single speed drill work, but that wasn't the case. The crosshatch pattern will be plainly visible. Here's a couple pictures of what you want to look for in a cylinder. I'm not claiming this is a perfect 45* pattern, but it's close. Please ignore the HUGE rust divot in the bore. :lol:
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