the turbo is dead; long live the turbo!

[tmbg]

Ok, so, I bought an LC-1 wideband to make my MS tuning efforts simpler, and friday night I was under the car pulling the downpipe to weld a bung into it.

My car has been leaking water just recently, and when I got under it to pull the dp, I found out why.

The turbo is BENT! The backplate bolted to the turbine housing is bent, and water's leaking from there. It's rusted the crap out of the u-joint in my steering shaft, hooray.

ANYWAY, I ordered a new turbo today, from MJM Turbo in Alabama. I imagine that I'll probably catch crap for it, but what the heck.

It's a stock T3 housing bored out for stage 3 wheel, comes with matching O2 housing, and T04E-60 .60 A/R compressor. $495 with no core. I guess we'll see how it does, but I feel like buying from a company with a street address and a phone number is somewhat safer than buying off ebay.

So now I gotta come up with a set of oil lines. You guys have any suggestions on where to get them?

[Jason84NA2T]

OEM oil lines have always worked for me, but I would buy the TSS stainless steel oil line if they had been available at the time.

I'm sure you will be happy with that turbo, it's a pretty good match for a street-driven 3.0 with up to as much as ~400whp

[tmbg]

what's the advantage of the TSS lines over stock?

[grahfz]

stainless steel line..
advantage? none.. other than bling factor, I'm sure... may be a bit easier to install.

[Jason84NA2T]

easier to install, looks cool, yeah... and you don't have to bend it all funny to fit a different type of aftermarket turbo center section. Considering the stock line and hardware is about $60 from the dealer, his SS line is a pretty fair deal.

[tmbg]

just talked to the guy that's actually building it, and turns out it would have been a 57 trim compressor wheel, but I'm getting a 60-1 instead for $35 extra.

Also, it's a watercooled center section, and comes with a 14 psi WGA.

[Jason84NA2T]

4" inlet is a bit hard to plumb, but I can vouch for the fact that that compressor moves buttloads of air at lower boosts.

14PSI actuator... does that mean you'll have a base setting of 14PSI? Yikes. I like to turn mine down to 10PSI so it "only" makes ~350rwhp to play with the honda guys :-)

You don't have to run the water lines, there's really no need for them if you run good oil... you can just leave that section open.

[tmbg]

I'll play around with it at 14psi base, and if it's too much, I'll see about swapping on a 6psi actuator like grahfZ is running. This is no longer a daily driver, so I may be able to get away with leaving it at 14.

[grahfz]

you can get a 60-1 w/ a 3" inlet.. and a 2.75 if you REALLY want it..

[Jason84NA2T]

grahfz wrote: you can get a 60-1 w/ a 3" inlet.. and a 2.75 if you REALLY want it..

Using a modified T04B compressor housing with a 60-1 compressor wheel, yeah... but it's quite a bit more expensive to get a compressor that flows 90% of what the 60-1 does in its native .70 AR housing. Turbonetics used to sell this combo as the "hi-fi" but I don't think they sell it anymore.