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  • Thermostat

    What temp does US Spec. Thermostat open?

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=

    CP has open info only for Nismo version.
    Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
    Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
    http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com

  • #2
    I think it's 76.5C or 170F

    On a side note I just replaced my factory thermostat (from 1984) with no thermostat (total cost $0) and aside for slightly slower warmup, the cooling system works better than ever before.

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    • #3
      Jason84NA2T wrote: I think it's 76.5C or 170F
      Yeah.. It was that.
      I'm having little problems with engine warming. around 90C in freeway.

      I need to remove front lisenceplate from front of radiator.
      new thermostat and possible fixit for radiator.
      Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
      Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
      http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com

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      • #4
        Jason84NA2T wrote: I think it's 76.5C or 170F

        On a side note I just replaced my factory thermostat (from 1984) with no thermostat (total cost $0) and aside for slightly slower warmup, the cooling system works better than ever before.
        yea that'd bad.... guage will read lower, but you need the pressure created by the t-stat to prevent bubbles forming around the cylinders

        I remember some corvette guys discussing how they drill holes in the rim of theirs to make it flow a bit more.... then I noticed nissan has such a hole already in the rim so that the fluid circulates at all times even just a little bit, but it has a plug that should open only one way

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        • #5
          anybody ever try just clipping the center out of a thermostat?

          that way you still have a restrictor plate in there, so it'll warm-up a bit quicker.
          vg33et -blew some chunks outta it, then gave it all away.
          2009 370z touring/nav/sports

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          • #6
            I don't get what the problem with it is, essentially it's just a self adjusting restrictor plate based on temp/pressure, a road race car at constant high temp might not need one but they use smaller hoses like 3/4" so they are restricted in a sense, but they can mostly determine what restriction they want for the load, we have varying load and we need a variable restrictor

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            • #7
              G-E wrote: yea that'd bad.... guage will read lower, but you need the pressure created by the t-stat to prevent bubbles forming around the cylinders

              I remember some corvette guys discussing how they drill holes in the rim of theirs to make it flow a bit more.... then I noticed nissan has such a hole already in the rim so that the fluid circulates at all times even just a little bit, but it has a plug that should open only one way
              Hmm, the engine always stays warm, never gets hot... and I have not noticed any bubbling of the coolant. I can see how too much restriction would cause pump cavitation and bubbles, but too little?

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              • #8
                i have seen mercedes that run a bit hotter without thermostat... than bubbling stuff would explain it , another one could be is that the water is not exchanging all the heat when it goes thru the rad since there is no pressure or something . im dumb

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                • #9
                  think of it like pouring water on a hot frying pan.... it tries to boil away from the surface.... the cylinder head and the top portion of the block water jackets are the hottest points of the engine, if the coolant tries to boil it will create pockets of pressure and the coolant will flow around it, more of it will circulate in the colder passages which won't remove as much heat from the engine

                  coolant does resist foaming so it would be hard to tell if it is boiling around the cylinders, now you can slightly offset this in our case because we don't have floating cylinder sleeves, any hotspots will to some extent diffuse to adjacent areas like a heatsink... but that only means that you can abuse the motor a bit more than some without catastrophe, though that doesn't justify cooling it poorly

                  and to be clear, the "bubbling" or "boiling" I'm talking about is just so it makes more sense, chances are you'd just get some gas pockets, water always contains air, exciting it releases it, you'll see when you boil water in a pot the bubbles come out of nowhere in particular and far from the air-water surface, but if you pour it into a mug, all the bubbles go away almost instantly, once you drop the water below a threshold (which is modified by coolant) the gas will be mostly reabsorbed, and a small amount will merge into an air layer in the largest chamber with a roof (which outside the engine is either the heater core valve hose, or the filler neck)

                  again the simple answer is the pressure keeps it closer to the point of highest heat, having the coolant circulate at the hottest points will remove the most heat, and the sensor will be lying ---- guage temperature isn't necessarily indicitive of cooling efficiency

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                  • #10
                    cavitation is a no no...

                    I am a pretty firm beliver in the thermostat being a must have. It keeps your engine the proper tempature, constantly altering the flow to a certain degree. They probably do put it there for a reason

                    Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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                    • #11
                      I have to think that running without a t-stat at all would be a bad thing overall. The issues others have sited I would have to agree with.

                      If anything the drilling of a couple small holes or cutting of the plate as mentioned by G-E and grafhz would seem more reasonable if done in moderation.

                      I don't recall where I heard this... but I seem to remember that the idea of running no t-stat was originated in the early American racing years (late 40s early 50s) by guys running the circle tracks using the old school engines of the time. In their case the high demand racing required the extra coolant flow and it basically became folk lore after that to do this on street cars. Street use however is not practical in most applications.

                      I would think that the restrictive pressure created by the t-stat is not unlike that of the cap. It has a functional purpose and completely removing it may not be a great idea. Especially in cool/cold weather situations.
                      Just stand back and throw money.
                      Performance costs money.
                      Reliable performance costs more.

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                      • #12
                        I bought a thermostat from autozone which claims to be set at 160F whihc is what the nismo is if I'm not mistaken and it was much less. I'll let you know how it does but I haven't had any trouble from stant (sp?) thremostats.
                        1988 Shiro Special #186 - T3/T04E turbo, Act clutch, gutted intake manifold

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