Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

[SteveZ]

Pics:




Well this brings back bad memories :cry:

On second though maybe I better sell the Eagles and get a set of Pauters for the Z :?

[MikeZ]

Man, thats sickening.

[roastin300]

NICE! I was wondering when you were going to build a motor. So your obviously going much bigger with your power. Whats your goals? If its over 500HP, what turbo, injectors and MAF are you going to use?

On a side not: So considering you have a new LONGBLOCK including heads. What are you going to do with your old heads that have the cams, springs and porting? I plan on going this route but would be nice to buy them off someone who has them already pieced together, and from someone who built them right and who i have bought alot of stuff from already. Let me know if you can part with them.

[Jason84NA2T]

roastin300 wrote: NICE! I was wondering when you were going to build a motor. So your obviously going much bigger with your power. Whats your goals? If its over 500HP, what turbo, injectors and MAF are you going to use?

On a side not: So considering you have a new LONGBLOCK including heads. What are you going to do with your old heads that have the cams, springs and porting? I plan on going this route but would be nice to buy them off someone who has them already pieced together, and from someone who built them right and who i have bought a lot of stuff from already. Let me know if you can part with them.

The goal is 500whp on pump gas using the GT35, but that's not going to be installed for a little while. The 550's have headroom left in them for that, but I'm not sure about the single walbro so I'll probably be adding another in-tank one in parallel. MAF will be a 90mm PRO-M unit for a ford lightning that a forum member sold me on the cheap. I will need to build a VQmap for it, but I have partial flow data to work from for doing that.

The heads are the same ones I was running before; they are part of the "old" that's going with the "new". They are the ones I ported, then gave to him to repair (after flywheel damage) and clean up the port job. They came back way better than expected.

Complete port/chamber work and valve job from Finnishline will run you about $800, plus cams and valve springs you're looking at $1100 to do a set of heads up very nicely... more if you want aftermarket valves. He's doing a set for MikeZ right now and will have before/after flow numbers for us.

[MrwassmanNA2T]

crasieness

[Jason84NA2T]

Ok, so almost everything is hooked up. I spent almost all day working on it unexpectedly because my girlfriend cancelled our plans. I still have a quite a few more things to do before the car is drivable, but the engine starts and runs!

I made sure to give it 5 or 6 of the standard 15 second cranking bursts to get the oil pump primed. It started right up when I connected the coil wire and turned it over.

Moving on to the breakin process. There are many schools of thought on braking in a new engine... I have only even broken in one other engine. I have been thinking I'll take it easy for the first 150 miles or so and then give it 7PSI or so after that (but only when the engine is fully warmed up). Once I change the oil at ~400 miles, I'll start upping the boost slowly and getting more abusive...

[G-E]

in your case you'd want mixed use but light work....

like disconnect the wastegate maybe and just drive normally up and down, sure it will feel like ass but it will go heh

[crowbar]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This guy claims that you break it in by beating on it.

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... gnbrkn.htm

so does this guy.

I bought a Toyota 4Runner and the dealer said that the initial break in is done by the factory. He gave a 100K warranty so they must know something. The oil filter uses some 'pre-injection' technology that traps oil pressure so that when you start it, it brings the oil pressure up quickly.

I asked the dealer about highway driving, not keeping the same speed, beating on it, etc. He said that just let it warm up before driving it hard.

[Jason84NA2T]

crowbar wrote: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... gnbrkn.htm

I asked the dealer about highway driving, not keeping the same speed, beating on it, etc. He said that just let it warm up before driving it hard.

I've read both of those links before... With Ford at least, at the factory most engines are "tested" by letting them idle for 30-40 seconds and then taking them to redline for 10 seconds. They claim if the engine is built correctly it should have no issues doing that, and that seems to agree with said links. I generally don't trust anything any person at a dealer says, as 90% of them are full of shit.

I'm still going to take it easy for he first little bit of the engine breakin period, if only for proper clutch breakin.

[Alex86na2t]

I have read you go through the full rpms @ WOT with stock boost before you start going easy. In order to get the to get the rings pressed against the walls good and tight.

Remember that extra compression gets behind the rings an presses outward on them. Thats is why a turbo is safer than nitrous.

[280Z Turbo]

Don't you know that you're supposed to cover your camshafts in peanut butter, never go under 100 mph, and drive without socks or underwear for the first 10,000 miles?! :wink:

It sounds to me like you've got the right idea. I say just take it easy for the first 500 miles and after then give 'er hell. That seems to work for most everybody else.

[G-E]

consider that as the block/rings heat up they will be softer and tend to float/smear more easily, which might not work to your advantage as far as sealing goes, so running it at high rpm will probably cause them to wear in faster and figure out their balance

you know what I wanna see? compression results before and after breakin

[Jason84NA2T]

Bah, I should have taken compression readings before I drove it today. I still need to set timing and stuff, I know I have it set 5-10 degrees out or so.

I took it down the road 5 miles or so to let it get warmed up, then I gave it the minimum I can (7PSI) to 5000rpm. It felt pretty strong...

My wideband is still in the "I'm going to be messed up" mode so I need to send it in. For now I will be relying on the previous tune with a little more fuel and a lot less timing to account for the increase in compression.

Keep in mind I have a chrome top ring in there, so the breakin should be a little faster than with regular steel compression rings.

I've decided I'll give it another hundred miles or so of city driving at 7PSI, change the oil and then give it the abuse it deserves.

This clutch is simply awesome. The pedal effort is almost as soft as stock, and it engages very smoothly. Also I have far less gear noise from the transmissions at lower RPM's on account of the sprung hub. I thought I liked the ACT 6 puck, but I am NEVER going back after experiencing this thing.

[G-E]

Jason84NA2T wrote: This clutch is simply awesome. The pedal effort is almost as soft as stock, and it engages very smoothly. Also I have far less
gear noise from the transmissions at lower RPM's on account of the sprung hub. I thought I liked the ACT 6 puck, but I am NEVER going back after experiencing this thing.

and dan will start carrying them which is good for us all

[Jason84NA2T]

I'm just curious... how much oil usage is normal for engine breakin when you have high performance rings and forged pistons? I've searched around and was just wondering if anyone here had any input on the topic.

I drove a little under 100 miles on it today, and it 'used' about half a quart.

There's also a little blowby coming out the valve covers at idle. Not much, but noticeable. I guess my question is how long should it take the new total seal rings to seat in and seal properly? The crosshatch on the hone is ideal per total seal specs (28-32 degrees).

They say a general rule of determining when an engine is broken in is when the oil consumption stabilizes. So...