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Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

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  • Dan-TSS
    replied
    and dan will start carrying them which is good for us all

    Welp, Dan is kinda screwed at this moment.
    *I had manufactured way more TSS Race Springs than I need, and those(the next replenishment order $1.8k worth) are currently floating around in "A BIG BROWN TRUCK". 5 days till they are returned to sender, due to my lack of fianances.(I still have 4 sets of fronts on hand)
    *The SBC Clutches?...yeah, I can help everyone out but myself(sarcasm).
    ^^I need sales of products in order to make money, and at this point, I need to sell some of the stuff I have spent money on to pay bills and re-invest into these "other" things people would like(SBC).
    ~IF it isn't obvious, sales are down for some reason...but I assumed they would not be. Money, yeh, I have some...but it is sitting in front of me in product form.
    -Bill collectors?...I tell'em they have the wrong number!
    C'mon guys!...please! E-mail me if the order is of signifigant size, I'll work with you $$$!
    >>>>To those have been ordering, every penny adds up, and it is very much appreciated. It's just lately, I have been selling a dump load of the bolt kits and none of the things I thought that were gonna be hot sellers..the more expensive investments I have made.(plenums, springs, shocks/struts/ ETC)
    :cry:

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  • Jason84NA2T
    replied
    crowbar wrote: How high a vacuum does the car pull? What rpm/gear does boost start?
    It pulls about 14-15 inches right now, which is amazing considering the cams have 38 degrees of valve overlap.

    Boost comes in about 2500RPM with a couple pounds and slowly tapers up, hitting 10PSI by ~3500 and 21PSI by ~4400RPM in 4th gear. The only gear with considerable lag is first, but that's only if you bog the launch like I always do.

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  • crowbar
    replied
    The present manufacturing tolerances, and known expansion rates, probably allows for some repeatable results in engine break-in and warrantied life.

    I think I read that factory engines are fired up with something besides gasoline. 'Pane or something. In any case, once oil consumption stabilizes, you probably have reached a steady state.

    The most important thing is always allowing the engine to reach thermal equilibrium before beating on it. That goes for the life of the engine.

    How high a vacuum does the car pull? What rpm/gear does boost start?

    Leave a comment:


  • G-E
    replied
    from all the reliable sources I've heard.... high rpm and no load for breakin

    maybe deceleration is the key.... short shifting up to top gear and downshifting agressively

    best ask total seal what they think, too many people here blow shit up

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason84NA2T
    replied
    I'm just curious... how much oil usage is normal for engine breakin when you have high performance rings and forged pistons? I've searched around and was just wondering if anyone here had any input on the topic.

    I drove a little under 100 miles on it today, and it 'used' about half a quart.

    There's also a little blowby coming out the valve covers at idle. Not much, but noticeable. I guess my question is how long should it take the new total seal rings to seat in and seal properly? The crosshatch on the hone is ideal per total seal specs (28-32 degrees).

    They say a general rule of determining when an engine is broken in is when the oil consumption stabilizes. So...

    Leave a comment:


  • G-E
    replied
    Jason84NA2T wrote: This clutch is simply awesome. The pedal effort is almost as soft as stock, and it engages very smoothly. Also I have far less
    gear noise from the transmissions at lower RPM's on account of the sprung hub. I thought I liked the ACT 6 puck, but I am NEVER going back after experiencing this thing.
    and dan will start carrying them which is good for us all

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason84NA2T
    replied
    Bah, I should have taken compression readings before I drove it today. I still need to set timing and stuff, I know I have it set 5-10 degrees out or so.

    I took it down the road 5 miles or so to let it get warmed up, then I gave it the minimum I can (7PSI) to 5000rpm. It felt pretty strong...

    My wideband is still in the "I'm going to be messed up" mode so I need to send it in. For now I will be relying on the previous tune with a little more fuel and a lot less timing to account for the increase in compression.

    Keep in mind I have a chrome top ring in there, so the breakin should be a little faster than with regular steel compression rings.

    I've decided I'll give it another hundred miles or so of city driving at 7PSI, change the oil and then give it the abuse it deserves.

    This clutch is simply awesome. The pedal effort is almost as soft as stock, and it engages very smoothly. Also I have far less gear noise from the transmissions at lower RPM's on account of the sprung hub. I thought I liked the ACT 6 puck, but I am NEVER going back after experiencing this thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • G-E
    replied
    consider that as the block/rings heat up they will be softer and tend to float/smear more easily, which might not work to your advantage as far as sealing goes, so running it at high rpm will probably cause them to wear in faster and figure out their balance

    you know what I wanna see? compression results before and after breakin

    Leave a comment:


  • 280Z Turbo
    replied
    Don't you know that you're supposed to cover your camshafts in peanut butter, never go under 100 mph, and drive without socks or underwear for the first 10,000 miles?! :wink:

    It sounds to me like you've got the right idea. I say just take it easy for the first 500 miles and after then give 'er hell. That seems to work for most everybody else.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alex86na2t
    replied
    I have read you go through the full rpms @ WOT with stock boost before you start going easy. In order to get the to get the rings pressed against the walls good and tight.

    Remember that extra compression gets behind the rings an presses outward on them. Thats is why a turbo is safer than nitrous.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason84NA2T
    replied
    crowbar wrote: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... gnbrkn.htm

    I asked the dealer about highway driving, not keeping the same speed, beating on it, etc. He said that just let it warm up before driving it hard.
    I've read both of those links before... With Ford at least, at the factory most engines are "tested" by letting them idle for 30-40 seconds and then taking them to redline for 10 seconds. They claim if the engine is built correctly it should have no issues doing that, and that seems to agree with said links. I generally don't trust anything any person at a dealer says, as 90% of them are full of shit.

    I'm still going to take it easy for he first little bit of the engine breakin period, if only for proper clutch breakin.

    Leave a comment:


  • crowbar
    replied
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    This guy claims that you break it in by beating on it.

    http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... gnbrkn.htm

    so does this guy.

    I bought a Toyota 4Runner and the dealer said that the initial break in is done by the factory. He gave a 100K warranty so they must know something. The oil filter uses some 'pre-injection' technology that traps oil pressure so that when you start it, it brings the oil pressure up quickly.

    I asked the dealer about highway driving, not keeping the same speed, beating on it, etc. He said that just let it warm up before driving it hard.

    Leave a comment:


  • G-E
    replied
    in your case you'd want mixed use but light work....

    like disconnect the wastegate maybe and just drive normally up and down, sure it will feel like ass but it will go heh

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason84NA2T
    replied
    Ok, so almost everything is hooked up. I spent almost all day working on it unexpectedly because my girlfriend cancelled our plans. I still have a quite a few more things to do before the car is drivable, but the engine starts and runs!

    I made sure to give it 5 or 6 of the standard 15 second cranking bursts to get the oil pump primed. It started right up when I connected the coil wire and turned it over.

    Moving on to the breakin process. There are many schools of thought on braking in a new engine... I have only even broken in one other engine. I have been thinking I'll take it easy for the first 150 miles or so and then give it 7PSI or so after that (but only when the engine is fully warmed up). Once I change the oil at ~400 miles, I'll start upping the boost slowly and getting more abusive...

    Leave a comment:


  • MrwassmanNA2T
    replied
    crasieness

    Leave a comment:

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