Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

[Jason84NA2T]

roastin300 wrote: NICE! I was wondering when you were going to build a motor. So your obviously going much bigger with your power. Whats your goals? If its over 500HP, what turbo, injectors and MAF are you going to use?

On a side not: So considering you have a new LONGBLOCK including heads. What are you going to do with your old heads that have the cams, springs and porting? I plan on going this route but would be nice to buy them off someone who has them already pieced together, and from someone who built them right and who i have bought a lot of stuff from already. Let me know if you can part with them.

The goal is 500whp on pump gas using the GT35, but that's not going to be installed for a little while. The 550's have headroom left in them for that, but I'm not sure about the single walbro so I'll probably be adding another in-tank one in parallel. MAF will be a 90mm PRO-M unit for a ford lightning that a forum member sold me on the cheap. I will need to build a VQmap for it, but I have partial flow data to work from for doing that.

The heads are the same ones I was running before; they are part of the "old" that's going with the "new". They are the ones I ported, then gave to him to repair (after flywheel damage) and clean up the port job. They came back way better than expected.

Complete port/chamber work and valve job from Finnishline will run you about $800, plus cams and valve springs you're looking at $1100 to do a set of heads up very nicely... more if you want aftermarket valves. He's doing a set for MikeZ right now and will have before/after flow numbers for us.

[roastin300]

NICE! I was wondering when you were going to build a motor. So your obviously going much bigger with your power. Whats your goals? If its over 500HP, what turbo, injectors and MAF are you going to use?

On a side not: So considering you have a new LONGBLOCK including heads. What are you going to do with your old heads that have the cams, springs and porting? I plan on going this route but would be nice to buy them off someone who has them already pieced together, and from someone who built them right and who i have bought alot of stuff from already. Let me know if you can part with them.

[MikeZ]

Man, thats sickening.

[SteveZ]

Pics:




Well this brings back bad memories :cry:

On second though maybe I better sell the Eagles and get a set of Pauters for the Z :?

[SteveZ]

im pretty sure SATAN knows a guy with a 750+HP VG and pushed the crank out of the bottom of the motor (no studs). I really dont think there a nessesity for any setup except for the most extreme but hey for $85.00 or so for the set from summit you mine as well throw them in for a piece of mind.

The Demise of my Last Honda motor was due to a Failure of an Eagle rod, the rod itself broke clean in half and was found smoldering on the side of the highway (Ill post a pic later). But stories like this are really few and far between and the motor being destroyed was not completly the rods fault I was just pushing it way to hard.

[racingzx]

Can I ask, why you used ARP main studs? Are the OEM studs not strong enough? Do you know if there been reports of the OEM main bolts failing on high hp vg30's? You courius because I am changing to a bigger turbo/stand alone and would like to know if I realy have to upgrade those bolts. Thanks

[Jason84NA2T]

280Z turbo: yup, probably worn rings from any number of things.

Dino: I still need to get it off my laptop for someone else who asked. I will post it here once I get it.

Mario: I'm not sure if Clevite77's are better than Nissan bearings, but they are generally regarded as being a very good bearing to use in a high performance engine because of the alloys they use or something like that. Lots of supra guys "upgrade" to clevite bearings over the 500whp mark to avoid having failures, but that's being compared to a Toyota bearing so meh...

Part numbers are easily available from the clevite parts catalogue, I think the 77 main+rod bearing sets are about $80 list?

Also, I should say the reason I decided NOT to buy and use eagle rods was because of recent failure stories I am reading on honda forums. DETT rods are proven reliable at 500whp, and I'm not about to even risk using POSSIBLY substandard components with an engine I'm going to have almost $3000 into just to save a few grams in rod weight.

[mario88ss]

Jason,
:shock: Sweet set up and good luck with the new engine.

Question: Are the Clevite 77 main and rod bearings better than the OEM ones... I figure because you are using them.
Because I need to get new ones for my set up soon. Do you have a part number.

Thanks

[Dino]

...Ha Jason...you finally killed your engine...bad story....so i am not the only one...

i will get my car back on the road tomorrow and proceed tuning the bins. It would be very interresting for me to have your timing map you killed you enigne with. Could you poste it including the info with how much boost you are in which load-column. That would be great.

[280Z Turbo]

Looks nice! Is it going to be ready for Grattan?

I would use a damper if I were you. It doesn't seem worth the risk, IMO. I'm sure that the VG30 isn't nearly as bad, but running a solid pulley on an L series is a death sentence for the motor, from all that I have read.

On a related note, the 327 in my dad's Corvette does the same thing that your old motor did, only worse. Probably just bad rings or scratched cylinder walls, right?

[Jason84NA2T]

FlawleZ wrote: Oh, and what year GSXR750 did you race? I've got lots of friends into bikes (3 good friends owning 2005 R6, 2005 600RR, and 2005 GSXR750) and I know all too well the extreme acceleration they can pack. I ran all 3 of them at different times on my old setup and of course I didn't stand a chance, but it gives me a real good idea of your car's acceleration. :twisted:

I really have no idea which year, but based on what little I know of them, I would guess it would have to be an older one. Ken mentioned he raced a new one and got beaten at the same power level as my 84.

[Jason84NA2T]

MikeZ wrote: Looks really nice! Stupid question: If you decide not to use the UR pully, won't that throw off your balancing?
Nope, the engine is internally balanced, so changing out to a harmonic balancer won't change it. The flywheel/pp and harmonic balancer are each balanced after the engine is balanced via the counterweights. The reason I'm thinking against using the UR pulley is simply a thought for longevity of things like bearings and valve springs.

MikeZ wrote: Is Finishline Motorsports the "Bob"?

Yeah, "The Bob" is one of the main guys at Finnishline.

[MikeZ]

Looks really nice! Stupid question: If you decide not to use the UR pully, won't that throw off your balancing?

Is Finishline Motorsports the "Bob"?

[FlawleZ]

Looks like you're doing it right from the ground up. I wish ya the best of luck with the new setup.

I know all too well about the heat. Try doing all of the work in this Texas weather where its actually a break when its under 100*. ;(

Oh, and what year GSXR750 did you race? I've got lots of friends into bikes (3 good friends owning 2005 R6, 2005 600RR, and 2005 GSXR750) and I know all too well the extreme acceleration they can pack. I ran all 3 of them at different times on my old setup and of course I didn't stand a chance, but it gives me a real good idea of your car's acceleration. :twisted:

[Jason84NA2T]

G-E wrote: 405 reliable hp is much better than 470 that could take a shit one day

I think this is the reason most of the dsm's break, they are tuned within an inch of their lives to produce the paper numbers, and when the weather changes or they go racing, crunch crunch crunch

Oh yeah, I'm sure this will be about as reliable as it can get. I'm hoping to get 50K miles out of this motor, but that's just some random number.

I agree that lots of people tune right to the very edge to make power. It's also funny when people dyno on C16 race gas and then run regular pump gas on the street at lower boost and still claim XXX power level. I have no reason to inflate my numbers, and it's just more fun for me to see what it can do in street trim all the time.

I beat the crap out of the car for quite a while with no issues at 450rwhp, but then when I ran it in boost for a long period of time I have this issue; hence there's no debate that the tune was still simply not conservative enough for "all driving conditions" at 20PSI.