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**Jason84NA2T** · 08-01-2006, 11:00 PM

The story on the old engine:
When I tuned the car, I had never planned on being in boost for more than 20 seconds or so. This completely slipped my mind when I egged on a bike to race (badged GSXR-750). From 50-130 we were dead even until I started to pull very slightly. Around 140mph I had half a car length when I felt a sharp dropoff in power. I quickly let off and coasted down to see two things behind me: a bike and some blue smoke. It must have knocked, it's the only explanation. After being under boost for that extended period of time I bet the charge temperatures rose and sent it over the detonation threshold. I guess this is my warning that I should always tune the car for ALL conditions ;-) including autobahn speeds and extended periods of boost. Anyway, it was smoking quite a bit out of the valve covers, bad enough that I didn't want to drive the car for smelling oil all the time. Hence the reason for this build, hopefully it will be the last engine I ever put in the car.

**G-E** · 08-01-2006, 11:05 PM

405 reliable hp is much better than 470 that could take a shit one day

I think this is the reason most of the dsm's break, they are tuned within an inch of their lives to produce the paper numbers, and when the weather changes or they go racing, crunch crunch crunch

**BLOZ UP** · 08-01-2006, 11:08 PM

damn those holes look good.

**Jason84NA2T** · 08-01-2006, 11:32 PM

G-E wrote: 405 reliable hp is much better than 470 that could take a shit one day

I think this is the reason most of the dsm's break, they are tuned within an inch of their lives to produce the paper numbers, and when the weather changes or they go racing, crunch crunch crunch

Oh yeah, I'm sure this will be about as reliable as it can get. I'm hoping to get 50K miles out of this motor, but that's just some random number.

I agree that lots of people tune right to the very edge to make power. It's also funny when people dyno on C16 race gas and then run regular pump gas on the street at lower boost and still claim XXX power level. I have no reason to inflate my numbers, and it's just more fun for me to see what it can do in street trim all the time.

I beat the crap out of the car for quite a while with no issues at 450rwhp, but then when I ran it in boost for a long period of time I have this issue; hence there's no debate that the tune was still simply not conservative enough for "all driving conditions" at 20PSI.

**FlawleZ** · 08-02-2006, 12:22 AM

Looks like you're doing it right from the ground up. I wish ya the best of luck with the new setup.

I know all too well about the heat. Try doing all of the work in this Texas weather where its actually a break when its under 100*. ;(

Oh, and what year GSXR750 did you race? I've got lots of friends into bikes (3 good friends owning 2005 R6, 2005 600RR, and 2005 GSXR750) and I know all too well the extreme acceleration they can pack. I ran all 3 of them at different times on my old setup and of course I didn't stand a chance, but it gives me a real good idea of your car's acceleration. :twisted:

Attached Files

Kouki.jpg (23.8 KB, 9 views)

**MikeZ** · 08-02-2006, 12:35 AM

Looks really nice! Stupid question: If you decide not to use the UR pully, won't that throw off your balancing?

Is Finishline Motorsports the "Bob"?

**Jason84NA2T** · 08-02-2006, 10:12 AM

MikeZ wrote: Looks really nice! Stupid question: If you decide not to use the UR pully, won't that throw off your balancing?
Nope, the engine is internally balanced, so changing out to a harmonic balancer won't change it. The flywheel/pp and harmonic balancer are each balanced after the engine is balanced via the counterweights. The reason I'm thinking against using the UR pulley is simply a thought for longevity of things like bearings and valve springs.

MikeZ wrote: Is Finishline Motorsports the "Bob"?

Yeah, "The Bob" is one of the main guys at Finnishline.

**Jason84NA2T** · 08-02-2006, 09:05 PM

FlawleZ wrote: Oh, and what year GSXR750 did you race? I've got lots of friends into bikes (3 good friends owning 2005 R6, 2005 600RR, and 2005 GSXR750) and I know all too well the extreme acceleration they can pack. I ran all 3 of them at different times on my old setup and of course I didn't stand a chance, but it gives me a real good idea of your car's acceleration. :twisted:

I really have no idea which year, but based on what little I know of them, I would guess it would have to be an older one. Ken mentioned he raced a new one and got beaten at the same power level as my 84.

**280Z Turbo** · 08-02-2006, 09:24 PM

Looks nice! Is it going to be ready for Grattan?

I would use a damper if I were you. It doesn't seem worth the risk, IMO. I'm sure that the VG30 isn't nearly as bad, but running a solid pulley on an L series is a death sentence for the motor, from all that I have read.

On a related note, the 327 in my dad's Corvette does the same thing that your old motor did, only worse. Probably just bad rings or scratched cylinder walls, right?

**Dino** · 08-03-2006, 07:55 AM

...Ha Jason...you finally killed your engine...bad story....so i am not the only one...

i will get my car back on the road tomorrow and proceed tuning the bins. It would be very interresting for me to have your timing map you killed you enigne with. Could you poste it including the info with how much boost you are in which load-column. That would be great.

**mario88ss** · 08-03-2006, 11:28 AM

Jason,
:shock: Sweet set up and good luck with the new engine.

Question: Are the Clevite 77 main and rod bearings better than the OEM ones... I figure because you are using them.
Because I need to get new ones for my set up soon. Do you have a part number.

Thanks

**Jason84NA2T** · 08-03-2006, 03:04 PM

280Z turbo: yup, probably worn rings from any number of things.

Dino: I still need to get it off my laptop for someone else who asked. I will post it here once I get it.

Mario: I'm not sure if Clevite77's are better than Nissan bearings, but they are generally regarded as being a very good bearing to use in a high performance engine because of the alloys they use or something like that. Lots of supra guys "upgrade" to clevite bearings over the 500whp mark to avoid having failures, but that's being compared to a Toyota bearing so meh...

Part numbers are easily available from the clevite parts catalogue, I think the 77 main+rod bearing sets are about $80 list?

Also, I should say the reason I decided NOT to buy and use eagle rods was because of recent failure stories I am reading on honda forums. DETT rods are proven reliable at 500whp, and I'm not about to even risk using POSSIBLY substandard components with an engine I'm going to have almost $3000 into just to save a few grams in rod weight.

**racingzx** · 08-03-2006, 03:45 PM

Can I ask, why you used ARP main studs? Are the OEM studs not strong enough? Do you know if there been reports of the OEM main bolts failing on high hp vg30's? You courius because I am changing to a bigger turbo/stand alone and would like to know if I realy have to upgrade those bolts. Thanks

**SteveZ** · 08-03-2006, 04:02 PM

im pretty sure SATAN knows a guy with a 750+HP VG and pushed the crank out of the bottom of the motor (no studs). I really dont think there a nessesity for any setup except for the most extreme but hey for $85.00 or so for the set from summit you mine as well throw them in for a piece of mind.

The Demise of my Last Honda motor was due to a Failure of an Eagle rod, the rod itself broke clean in half and was found smoldering on the side of the highway (Ill post a pic later). But stories like this are really few and far between and the motor being destroyed was not completly the rods fault I was just pushing it way to hard.

Announcement

Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

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