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  • NA > T conversion 86NA Slicktop > Vacuum Canister?

    Hi, I have an 86NA, I went to the junkyard and found a 87T and got the turbo, manifold, ECU, pop off valve, all turbo piping off of it.
    I know I dont even have all the necessary components, but on my NA I have NO more emissions, NO EGR valve, no vacuum pump or canister, AC removed, no cruise control, no AIR valve or whatever it was (emissions thing behind drivers headlight).

    Anyways, I keep hearing that the to do the conversion when converting to turbo I HAVE to have a vacuum pump for the FPR because the FPR runs off vacuum, and whenever you get in to boost you arent in vacuum anymore...
    Anyway... Someone give me some insight on this?

    I looked at a few diagrams and from the looks from it, it looks like the FPR goes to a line to the FPR solenoid behind the drivers headlight (I DONT have that anymore either, do I need it?) and then it goes to the intake manifold directly, is this correct?

    thanks alot!!


    offtopic:
    I changed my plugs and wires... and now at low rpms (1500 or below) the motor surges in power... especially noticeable at higher gears at 1500 or below, if I push the gas pedal lets say to 1/8th throttle, in 2nd gear at idle (idle as in moving the car at idle in 2nd gear), the hold the throttle at the EXACT same amount, the car will make NO power at all and then all of a sudden make power and then drop off, and then make power and then as soon as it reaches 1500 or more rpms... the car runs PERFECT.
    (its as if power surges up and down at 1500 or below?)

    Whats up with this?
    thanks!
    1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
    ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
    1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

  • #2
    You don't need a vacuum pump. Just make sure the FPR has a hose attached to the plenum, that will give it the proper vacuum it needs. As for your turbo conversion, I would recommend as well you get the turbo injectors. Also you will NEED the turbo crossmember which has an offset on the driver's side engine mount to clear the turbo. just route that FPR line to the plenum port right next to it and it will be fine.

    As for your surge problem it sounds like a vacuum leak... but hard to say without me actually seeing it.
    Lance 'never-ending 88na2t project' Landry
    I sell Z stuff when I'm not being lazy.
    Trace cell phones via GPS: http://www.phonetrace.org

    Comment


    • #3
      Wow! You need alot more stuff of the donor Z to make the turbo conversion possible.

      What you need:
      turbo injectors
      engine crossmember
      drivers side engine mount
      altenater bracket
      engine oil pan

      If you need a list, look for "NA to T conversion" on my website. I'm doing the same conversion on an '86 2x2. I have everything listed with pictures.

      Good Luck

      Peace!
      [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
      [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
      2000 Porsche Boxster
      2007 Toyota Yaris

      Comment


      • #4
        Awesome!

        your website has been added to my favorites, VERY helpful!

        What does the OEM FPR Solenoid do anyways?

        I have NO IDEA what gaskets I need and WHERE to buy them from, can you give me the list with maybe the part numbers for all the gaskets?

        How much did they all cost you?

        Does anyone Have ANY turbo parts for sale?

        I actually have more turbo stuff than I listed...
        I have
        Turbocharger
        Exhaust manifold
        Downpipe and elbow with 02 sensor (can i re-use the 02 sensor?)
        injectors AND fuel rails (I cut the fuel lines, what do I do?)
        All turbo plumbing
        I ditched and DIDNT get a couple of the turbo heatshields, like for example the one blocking the brake booster from the turbo, Do I NEED them?

        I need new oil AND coolant lines.
        I know the oil lines go from the block and the return is to the oil pan, but where in god do the coolant lines go? to the throttle body?

        Thanks alot you guys!

        The turbo has ALOT of shaft play by the way and the compressor fins are bent (I did that accidentally with the tip of a high pressure water hose)

        The compressor DOES strike the compressor housing...
        how much for a re-build with a new compressor wheel?
        1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
        ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
        1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

        Comment


        • #5
          1SIKZ31 wrote: Awesome!

          your website has been added to my favorites, VERY helpful!

          What does the OEM FPR Solenoid do anyways?

          I have NO IDEA what gaskets I need and WHERE to buy them from, can you give me the list with maybe the part numbers for all the gaskets?

          How much did they all cost you?

          Does anyone Have ANY turbo parts for sale?

          I actually have more turbo stuff than I listed...
          I have
          Turbocharger
          Exhaust manifold
          Downpipe and elbow with 02 sensor (can i re-use the 02 sensor?)
          injectors AND fuel rails (I cut the fuel lines, what do I do?)
          All turbo plumbing
          I ditched and DIDNT get a couple of the turbo heatshields, like for example the one blocking the brake booster from the turbo, Do I NEED them?

          I need new oil AND coolant lines.
          I know the oil lines go from the block and the return is to the oil pan, but where in god do the coolant lines go? to the throttle body?

          Thanks alot you guys!

          The turbo has ALOT of shaft play by the way and the compressor fins are bent (I did that accidentally with the tip of a high pressure water hose)

          The compressor DOES strike the compressor housing...
          how much for a re-build with a new compressor wheel?
          I don't use the heat shield covering the brake booster on mine. I don't tbink its 100% necessary unless you're running a much larger than stock turbo and generating TONS of heat. The coolant lines run underneath the throttlebody. A lot of people (including myself) just block them off and just use oil cooling for the turbo intself.
          Originally posted by Andrew84zx
          tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
          545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ

          Comment


          • #6
            I've done the N/A-T conversion and here are the things everyone CLAIMS you need that you DON'T need:

            1. Alternator bracket. Leave it on the passenger side, it makes absolutely no sense to put it on the driver's side.
            2. Turbo AIC/idle control crap that plugs into the plenum
            3. Turbo Wiring harness

            Things you ABSOLUTELY need:

            1. Turbo injectors
            2. Turbo ECU
            3. Turbo crossmember
            4. Turbo passenger side manifold
            5. Some kind of turbo exhaust (i went with certifiedmuffler.com's turbo back 2.5") but I'm told you can make do with only a turbo downpipe
            6. Turbocharger (the best/easiest turbo per dollar is the stock T3 unless you want to make big hp #'s)

            What I did:
            Remove engine/trans (i was replacing a blown FS5R71C so you might not need to move the whole deal). replace current injectors with turbo injectors. Remove Oilpan, Drill hole and bung weld a fitting for oil return. Replace oilpan. Remove Driver's side manifold & Replace with turbo mani. Bolt up turbo. Remove N/A crossmember and replace with turbo crossmember. Replace engine and trans. Modify Injector connectors with pliars. The injector connectors from the N/A and turbo are different. I took a wire cutters and cut out the small piece of plastic that prevents them from fitting over the turbo injectors. Remove N/A ECU and replace with turbo ECU. hook up sensors. I REMOVED the air pump by the driver's side headlights, the vacuum tank, and A/C shit. My FPR was connected directly to the plenum. For pictures of my project visit http://zcarwiki.com/gallery
            Funny stories!

            Comment


            • #7
              homestar wrote: I've done the N/A-T conversion and here are the things everyone CLAIMS you need that you DON'T need:

              1. Alternator bracket. Leave it on the passenger side, it makes absolutely no sense to put it on the driver's side.

              2. Turbo AIC/idle control crap that plugs into the plenum
              3. Turbo Wiring harness
              You're absolutely half right and wrong. For 84 - 4/87 NA models, the altenater was located on the drivers side. It would make sense to move it to the other side of the engine, wouldn't it?
              [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
              [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
              2000 Porsche Boxster
              2007 Toyota Yaris

              Comment


              • #8
                1SIKZ31 wrote: What does the OEM FPR Solenoid do anyways?
                It controls the fuel pressure for cold and hot starts. After 20 years, the soleniod hardly works. It can be removed completely and the vacuum hose ran straight to the plenum.

                1SIKZ31 wrote: I have NO IDEA what gaskets I need and WHERE to buy them from, can you give me the list with maybe the part numbers for all the gaskets?

                How much did they all cost you?
                I picked up all my gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. All the gaskets needed cost me about $50. I guess I can put up the part numbers on my website a little later, once I get around to it.

                1SIKZ31 wrote:
                The compressor DOES strike the compressor housing...
                how much for a re-build with a new compressor wheel?
                Sounds like this turbocharger won't make it past the first cranking of the engine. I wouldn't even waste my time with it. Return it and find one in better condition. Respectively, a rebuild would cost more than the value of the turbocharger.
                [strike:ff0tp92h]1984 300ZXT[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                [strike:ff0tp92h]1986 300ZX 2x2 NA2T[/strike:ff0tp92h]
                2000 Porsche Boxster
                2007 Toyota Yaris

                Comment


                • #9
                  [quote]raidon84300zx wrote:
                  Originally posted by homestar
                  I've done the N/A-T conversion and here are the things everyone CLAIMS you need that you DON'T need:

                  1. Alternator bracket. Leave it on the passenger side, it makes absolutely no sense to put it on the driver's side.
                  Originally posted by homestar
                  2. Turbo AIC/idle control crap that plugs into the plenum
                  3. Turbo Wiring harness
                  You're absolutely half right and wrong. For 84 - 4/87 NA models, the altenater was located on the drivers side. It would make sense to move it to the other side of the engine, wouldn't it?
                  ya know i hate to shit on everyone's parade about that 4/87 thing and you guys are not going to believe me but my car was manufactured 1/87 and I have the W series block (confirmed by lack of oilpan and upper plenum gasket), alt bracket on the passenger side, side feed injectors and so on.
                  Funny stories!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    [quote]homestar wrote: [quote=raidon84300zx]
                    Originally posted by homestar
                    I've done the N/A-T conversion and here are the things everyone CLAIMS you need that you DON'T need:

                    1. Alternator bracket. Leave it on the passenger side, it makes absolutely no sense to put it on the driver's side.
                    Originally posted by homestar
                    2. Turbo AIC/idle control crap that plugs into the plenum
                    3. Turbo Wiring harness
                    You're absolutely half right and wrong. For 84 - 4/87 NA models, the altenater was located on the drivers side. It would make sense to move it to the other side of the engine, wouldn't it?
                    ya know i hate to shit on everyone's parade about that 4/87 thing and you guys are not going to believe me but my car was manufactured 1/87 and I have the W series block (confirmed by lack of oilpan and upper plenum gasket), alt bracket on the passenger side, side feed injectors and so on.
                    Could have been replaced at one time. But who knows, 87 is a very hybrid year for the Z31. I know Cheezmonta has an 87 W Series with a T3. WTF?
                    Originally posted by Andrew84zx
                    tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
                    545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      homestar wrote: ya know i hate to shit on everyone's parade about that 4/87 thing and you guys are not going to believe me but my car was manufactured 1/87 and I have the W series block (confirmed by lack of oilpan and upper plenum gasket), alt bracket on the passenger side, side feed injectors and so on.
                      in 87 all the alternators went to the passenger side, and the gaskets were being slowly replaced with sealant, all current waterpump castings have a groove and don't come with a gasket....

                      you may have a w series but the other stuff is not evidence of anything but maintenance

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        How about the alternator belt? Do I need a diffrent length belt?
                        I need a turbo oil feed and return line, someone plz help me!
                        Is it recomended to run coolant to the turbo? Where can I buy the lines?

                        And also where do I get a T3 from?
                        Are they cheap?
                        If it would be cheaper to buy a new turbo someone can link me somewhere please?
                        1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
                        ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
                        1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          How about the alternator belt? Do I need a diffrent length belt?
                          I need a turbo oil feed and return line, someone plz help me!
                          Is it recomended to run coolant to the turbo? Where can I buy the lines?

                          And also where do I get a T3 from?
                          Are they cheap?
                          If it would be cheaper to buy a new turbo someone can link me somewhere please?
                          1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
                          ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
                          1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

                          Comment

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