my (stock) vertical radiator progress:

[I_STAY_FLY]

so unless your putting in a inter cooler then there is no good resson to up right the radiator?????

[Careless]

I have a 6 inch gap on the driver side of my Racinjitter Radiator SPL so that I can run huge IC pipes on the same side to a GN style intercooler and then back to the TB when I get around to it.

I figured I wouldn't have to put piping through the fender if I choose to go that way.

[dustin87]

Gritt - tell me something. Or anyone in really hot conditions for that matter. I live in St. Pete, and every time I get stuck on I-275 in the summer, (mainly in Tampa), my Taurus e-fan just can't keep the temp down. I have a nismo rad cap and the 170* thermostat. If I just went ahead and put the stock rad cap back on with the stock fan, do you think that would take care of it? It really ticks me off because I have almost reached full hot more than once in that scenario. Watching that crappy digital gauge move up isn't fun when you can't even pull off to the side.

[SATAN]

dustin87 wrote: Gritt - tell me something. Or anyone in really hot conditions for that matter. I live in St. Pete, and every time I get stuck on I-275 in the summer, (mainly in Tampa), my Taurus e-fan just can't keep the temp down. I have a nismo rad cap and the 170* thermostat. If I just went ahead and put the stock rad cap back on with the stock fan, do you think that would take care of it? It really ticks me off because I have almost reached full hot more than once in that scenario. Watching that crappy digital gauge move up isn't fun when you can't even pull off to the side.

This means there is something wrong with your cooling system. The Taurus fan moves a LOT of air. I run one and have never had an over heating issue due to traffic. I have sat in 105* temps in stop and go traffic (stopped periods of up to 5 mins) without my temps even climbing. I wasn't sure if the fan could keep up, so I made sure to drive the car to work in the middle of July on a very hot day, just to see how it would do. It did fine.

The car should be able to sit there and idle for hours in 130* heat. It should never over heat in that situation. This (along with many other ways) is how a lot of cars are tested before they are ever even released to the public.

[Careless]

Same. My taurus fan on my turbo radiator worked awesome.

Now I have the new radiator and I've witnessed it literally turn on for about 3 seconds on low and shut off. granted that's because aluminum can extract more heat but when it turns on for those 3 to 5 seconds it doesn't turn back on again for another 2 or 3 minutes.

Raff

[SATAN]

Careless wrote: Same. My taurus fan on my turbo radiator worked awesome.

Now I have the new radiator and I've witnessed it literally turn on for about 3 seconds on low and shut off. granted that's because aluminum can extract more heat but when it turns on for those 3 to 5 seconds it doesn't turn back on again for another 2 or 3 minutes.

Raff

Actually, copper transfers heat faster than aluminum, but the point remains.

[Rat1314]

[quote]SATAN wrote:

Gritt - tell me something. Or anyone in really hot conditions for that matter. I live in St. Pete, and every time I get stuck on I-275 in the summer, (mainly in Tampa), my Taurus e-fan just can't keep the temp down. I have a nismo rad cap and the 170* thermostat. If I just went ahead and put the stock rad cap back on with the stock fan, do you think that would take care of it? It really ticks me off because I have almost reached full hot more than once in that scenario. Watching that crappy digital gauge move up isn't fun when you can't even pull off to the side.
This means there is something wrong with your cooling system. The Taurus fan moves a LOT of air. I run one and have never had an over heating issue due to traffic. I have sat in 105* temps in stop and go traffic (stopped periods of up to 5 mins) without my temps even climbing. I wasn't sure if the fan could keep up, so I made sure to drive the car to work in the middle of July on a very hot day, just to see how it would do. It did fine.

The car should be able to sit there and idle for hours in 130* heat. It should never over heat in that situation. This (along with many other ways) is how a lot of cars are tested before they are ever even released to the public.

I've had my car in stop start traffic in 45c before, with just the NA fans and no overheating problems. That's with new hoses, radiator, thermostat and water pump. If your car is getting hot then there is a problem you need to address.

[dustin87]

Overheating, can't figure out.

Yeah I definitely need to address this problem. But if anyone remembers, I rebuilt my motor in April, meaning complete system flush, new water pump and hoses. Thermostat was replaced last year, and of course the Taurus fan and Nismo cap. And it does fine any other time. I have temp switch as low as it can go which is like 160*, but it only happens in this stop and go traffic. The kind where you can't take your foot off the clutch.
Ok, just thought of this, my cone filter hangs over the fan a little bit. Could that hot air be causing my temp to spike when the fan comes on?
Thank you for the input.

[Rat1314]

have you had a radiator shop pull the tanks off the radiator to clean and inspect the tubes? Just running a radiator flush through your system won't be enough to remove everything

[Careless]

Re: Overheating, can't figure out.

dustin87 wrote: Yeah I definitely need to address this problem. But if anyone remembers, I rebuilt my motor in April, meaning complete system flush, new water pump and hoses. Thermostat was replaced last year, and of course the Taurus fan and Nismo cap. And it does fine any other time. I have temp switch as low as it can go which is like 160*, but it only happens in this stop and go traffic. The kind where you can't take your foot off the clutch.
Ok, just thought of this, my cone filter hangs over the fan a little bit. Could that hot air be causing my temp to spike when the fan comes on?
Thank you for the input.

Mine is directly over my fan, and i'm sure it gets hot and I should make a separation plate of sorts for ducting, but it does not spike immensely.

[dustin87]

Yeah my radiator just might be cruddy, I'll have to see.

[Matt89]

Rat1314 wrote: have you had a radiator shop pull the tanks off the radiator to clean and inspect the tubes? Just running a radiator flush through your system won't be enough to remove everything

At that point you should just get a new radiator. It is really not worth the trouble.

[bleakdragonmage]

SATAN wrote:
It allows you to only be able to run a smaller radiator than stock! w00t! Oh, wait, I mean, it gives you less room in the engine bay. Oh, I mean, air flow is more likely to go around the radiator now rather than through it. Oh, and err uh, it is easier for it to get damaged...Oh... Damn, ok I'll stop now.

Although, it does make the radiator easier to remove when needed. You don't have to pull the front bumper cover to do so.

I have a vertical radiator in my car, its larger than stock. but then again i dont have the hood latch crossbeam, and i had to slot the headlight brackets to get it to fit... :-? You can get around the airflow issue by creating a box so any air that hits the front bumper must go through the radiator. I believe a member on Z31 did it.

I can remove my radiator in 5min though. Definitely a plus.