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anyone here using a TMIC setup?

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  • #16
    [quote]MrwassmanNA2T wrote:
    Originally posted by OK85ZX
    Some random intercooler isn't always going to be better than no intercooler at all. keep that in mind and look for a good intercooler, like an MKIV IC.How could putting the air thru all that surface area Not cool any better than a steel pipe?
    Because the flow restriction outweighs any good that the IC will bring. Also the heatsoak will be pretty large, and possibly even heat the air as much or more than the pipe will, mounting it ontop anyway.

    I'm aware of that and like i said, I chose that intercooler after shopping around for the reason that it is small and will provide good boost response. Does anyone have any kind of flow data on this innercooler that states that it doesn't flow well or is this just heresay?

    Well, considering that it didn't work well on a 1.3 litre engine, shitty flow AND efficiency... i mean, i guess the whole board is full of heresay and you're going to show us something awesome and new... everyone's jaw is going to drop at the performance of the mazda top mount..
    1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

    Comment


    • #17
      GotFast? wrote: Hey Homestar

      Know anyone that has a TII rex for sale like that white one in the pictures. It would be awesome to have a pearl white turbo rex next to my pearl white turbo Z.

      Ian
      no but i know someone that's selling a dark grey 87 N/A and someone thats parting out the ones in that picture. Give me a call and i'll talk to them for you
      Funny stories!

      Comment


      • #18
        I sense some reading for MrwassmanNA2T might be in order.
        It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...

        Comment


        • #19
          well if you guys say its a POS, i'll believe you. I'm still going to try front mounting it in a VERY ghetto test setup and measure boost drop. If its too much boost drop i'll can it.

          You guys have to keep in mind that I never plan on running more than 10 lbs of boost and I don't really need anyhting that big. If this thing seriously can't take 10psi @ stock vg30E flow... i'll can it.
          Funny stories!

          Comment


          • #20
            If you're only going to be running 10 psi on the stock turbo then don't IC it at all...
            1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

            Comment


            • #21
              A TMIC can work relatively well, and not have heat soak issues. I did this for my setup and saw a consistent drop of 110 degrees F at peak. The faster I went the more the drop in temp. My setup is also on Jasons site and it's mounted more or less where he was telling you to mount it above the AC unit. There's a lot of BS about heat soak, from people that don't have any actual testing to back their opinions. I didn't post anything about my setup until I tested it and could show that was worth having. During my testing heat soak was never a problem (according to the temperature readings I took). I'll try and get better shots of my setup now that I have a decent dig. camera. The crappiest thing about my setup is the tight bend right before the IC. Even with the less than ideal bend, boost response felt exactly the same, and I receive the benefits of dropping about 60% of the heat generated from the stock T3 at about 12-14psi. It'd be nice to hit 100% or better, but then again I have a total of about $340 into the IC system, with about $260 of it in a Greddy BOV.

              Do it, test it, discuss it, and let the chips fall where they may.
              1984 NA to T Digi-Dash, Morgan's Cam Gears @ -3, Team Green Air Filter, Top Mount Intercooler, Turbo XS Boost Controller, Greddy Type RS BOV, CM 3" Down Pipe, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, and Maxima E-Fans.

              1984 NA 2+2 - New Project Solid Axle Rear - Former Best 1/4 mile 13.452 @105.77mph.

              Comment


              • #22
                here's another question: I was considering running stock boost for awhile but by plugging up the boost actuator hole in the compressor and moving the actuator boost supply to after the innercooler somewhere in the charge pipe, the idea being that the wastegate wouldn't actually open until i'm making stock boost after the innercooler rather than before, effectively stopping boost drop.

                good idea or bad? discuss.
                Funny stories!

                Comment


                • #23
                  homestar wrote: here's another question: I was considering running stock boost for awhile but by plugging up the boost actuator hole in the compressor and moving the actuator boost supply to after the innercooler somewhere in the charge pipe, the idea being that the wastegate wouldn't actually open until i'm making stock boost after the innercooler rather than before, effectively stopping boost drop.

                  good idea or bad? discuss.
                  ... you won't be stopping boost drop, lol. Your boost gauge is already reading the boost that's going into the engine, after pressure drop occurs. That's all that matters. Just get a manual boost controller and turn it up a little bit.
                  1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    springerc69 wrote: A TMIC can work relatively well, and not have heat soak issues. I did this for my setup and saw a consistent drop of 110 degrees F at peak. The faster I went the more the drop in temp. My setup is also on Jasons site and it's mounted more or less where he was telling you to mount it above the AC unit. There's a lot of BS about heat soak, from people that don't have any actual testing to back their opinions. I didn't post anything about my setup until I tested it and could show that was worth having. During my testing heat soak was never a problem (according to the temperature readings I took). I'll try and get better shots of my setup now that I have a decent dig. camera. The crappiest thing about my setup is the tight bend right before the IC. Even with the less than ideal bend, boost response felt exactly the same, and I receive the benefits of dropping about 60% of the heat generated from the stock T3 at about 12-14psi. It'd be nice to hit 100% or better, but then again I have a total of about $340 into the IC system, with about $260 of it in a Greddy BOV.

                    Do it, test it, discuss it, and let the chips fall where they may.
                    Did you test it after boosting for a while and having your engine heated up? I don't know about you, but my engine bay gets much hotter than inside of the nose of my car. especially on the turbo side. I spent ~$300 on parts, using an ebay 23"x12"x3" bar/plate IC, one universal 2.5" pipe kit from ebay, included the pipes, couplers, and 16 tbolt clamps, and I bought a pipe cutter and 3 additional couplers. It sits in a better position for efficiency, and I didn't have to hack up the hood... I mean, $300-$350 for a brand new parts front mount setup that looks good. Going off of cost effectiveness and performance, I don't see why anyone trys to stray from a front mount setup aside from trying to be original?
                    1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      [quote]OK85ZX wrote:
                      Originally posted by homestar
                      here's another question: I was considering running stock boost for awhile but by plugging up the boost actuator hole in the compressor and moving the actuator boost supply to after the innercooler somewhere in the charge pipe, the idea being that the wastegate wouldn't actually open until i'm making stock boost after the innercooler rather than before, effectively stopping boost drop.

                      good idea or bad? discuss.
                      ... you won't be stopping boost drop, lol. Your boost gauge is already reading the boost that's going into the engine, after pressure drop occurs. That's all that matters. Just get a manual boost controller and turn it up a little bit.
                      the boost guage doesnt control boost dude, the wasteagete actuator does. By moving the boost supply to the actuator behind the innercooler, i should be preventing boost drop by doing the same thing as getting a manual boost controller and turning the boost up a little bit.
                      Funny stories!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I was arguing in MY case, not the crappy rx7 intercoolers case..... Everyone has given me crap about my top mount, so i am left to defend it. Oh, and my intercooler has almost 0 (zero) Psi drop from what the gauge is telling me. If there is any, it is very little.

                        Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          homestar wrote:
                          the boost guage doesnt control boost dude, the wasteagete actuator does. By moving the boost supply to the actuator behind the innercooler, i should be preventing boost drop by doing the same thing as getting a manual boost controller and turning the boost up a little bit.
                          Wow, do you really think I'm an idiot? That was seriously the most retarded post I've seen from you yet. Please don't feel the need to fill me in on products that I've been useing for over a year in a thread that you're talking about useing a horribly inefficient intercooler in a less than optimal place just to be "unique".

                          You aren't changing anything by moving the source for the wastegate, all it's doing is turning the boost up without adjusting the boost controller, it's not "preventing boost drop." It's just raising the boost so that after the pressure drop occurs, the pressure isn't as low. Pressure drop isn't just you looking at the gauge and going "oh the pee ess eye hasn't gone down i don't have pressure drop!!!!1!!1!11one." It means that the pressure coming out of the turbo compressor housing is lowered once it passes the intercooler, which will happen reguardless of where you take a pressure source from.

                          As for MrwassmanNA2T: Even the best intercoolers on the market have pressure drop. Use two gauges, one taking a pressure reading right after your compressor outlet, and one off of your intake manifold. You will see it.
                          1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            [quote]OK85ZX wrote:
                            Originally posted by springerc69
                            A TMIC can work relatively well, and not have heat soak issues. I did this for my setup and saw a consistent drop of 110 degrees F at peak. The faster I went the more the drop in temp. My setup is also on Jasons site and it's mounted more or less where he was telling you to mount it above the AC unit. There's a lot of BS about heat soak, from people that don't have any actual testing to back their opinions. I didn't post anything about my setup until I tested it and could show that was worth having. During my testing heat soak was never a problem (according to the temperature readings I took). I'll try and get better shots of my setup now that I have a decent dig. camera. The crappiest thing about my setup is the tight bend right before the IC. Even with the less than ideal bend, boost response felt exactly the same, and I receive the benefits of dropping about 60% of the heat generated from the stock T3 at about 12-14psi. It'd be nice to hit 100% or better, but then again I have a total of about $340 into the IC system, with about $260 of it in a Greddy BOV.

                            Do it, test it, discuss it, and let the chips fall where they may.
                            Did you test it after boosting for a while and having your engine heated up? I don't know about you, but my engine bay gets much hotter than inside of the nose of my car. especially on the turbo side. I spent ~$300 on parts, using an ebay 23"x12"x3" bar/plate IC, one universal 2.5" pipe kit from ebay, included the pipes, couplers, and 16 tbolt clamps, and I bought a pipe cutter and 3 additional couplers. It sits in a better position for efficiency, and I didn't have to hack up the hood... I mean, $300-$350 for a brand new parts front mount setup that looks good. Going off of cost effectiveness and performance, I don't see why anyone trys to stray from a front mount setup aside from trying to be original?
                            I can't link to my page where I discuss the testing I did (no tv or internet since I moved into my new house Sep. 1 :evil: ). Here's a pretty good summary with out all of the values:

                            I used a Fluke two input thermal couple temperature reader, I drove around town and to a back road monitoring temps after the MAF sensor and after the IC. With the engine fully warmed the temp difference was usually around 2-3 degrees above ambient after the IC with no increase over time. When I hit the back road I did multiple back to back simulated 1/4 mile passes from 1st-3rd redline. The only "cool" down period between runs was when I turned the car around to run again in the opposite direction. At peak it was ~70 degrees F hotter than ambient temps. I did a few passes like that and then did a couple of passes with one probe reading pre-IC temps and one reading post-IC temps which showed ~275 degrees F post turbo at 12-14psi and post-IC temps of ~160 degrees F and dropping as speed increased. The last run was cut short due to a IC pipe coupler splitting due to heat and pressure.

                            So yes I'd say I tested it pretty well as it relates to how I use my car. Are you using a BOV yet, what psi are you running, and what are the temps you're seeing for your system? Oh and what temp is the air after the turbo on a stock car with no modifications? I'm going to guess, since I didn't and can't test this with my car that at the stock 6 psi it's seeing at least a 70 degree increase in temperature above ambient after the turbo (anyone test this?). Also, if I gave a shit about the hood I'd spend more than $500 on the car and more than a couple of hours doing bondo, sanding, and painting; but that's just me. One last thing, the cops don't like people here with big FMIC's and with mine you can't really tell I have an IC unless you look under the hood scoop when I'm stopped.
                            1984 NA to T Digi-Dash, Morgan's Cam Gears @ -3, Team Green Air Filter, Top Mount Intercooler, Turbo XS Boost Controller, Greddy Type RS BOV, CM 3" Down Pipe, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, and Maxima E-Fans.

                            1984 NA 2+2 - New Project Solid Axle Rear - Former Best 1/4 mile 13.452 @105.77mph.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              OK85ZX wrote: Wow, do you really think I'm an idiot? That was seriously the most retarded post I've seen from you yet. Please don't feel the need to fill me in on products that I've been useing for over a year in a thread that you're talking about useing a horribly inefficient intercooler in a less than optimal place just to be "unique".

                              You aren't changing anything by moving the source for the wastegate, all it's doing is turning the boost up without adjusting the boost controller, it's not "preventing boost drop." It's just raising the boost so that after the pressure drop occurs, the pressure isn't as low. Pressure drop isn't just you looking at the gauge and going "oh the pee ess eye hasn't gone down i don't have pressure drop!!!!1!!1!11one." It means that the pressure coming out of the turbo compressor housing is lowered once it passes the intercooler, which will happen reguardless of where you take a pressure source from.
                              I realize that however consider this:

                              Turbo spools and makes hot air, hot air goes into combustion chamber. OR, turbo spools up and makes more hot air, hot air goes into ineffecient innercooler and still gets cooled down significantly. The end result is the same amount of air pressure but the innercooled one is making "better boost." Am I missing something?
                              Funny stories!

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                OK. If you "get rid of the pressure drop" by upping the boost, you're creating even more heat coming from the turbo. "Considered that?"

                                I'm not going to bother listing all the other factors that you left out of that post.

                                Also, I'm not saying this won't give you any sort of performance gain whatsoever ( even though I firmly believe the negatives will outweight he positives using this specific intercooler ) I'm saying that you're starting out with a horribly inefficient intercooler when you can get a much better one for cheap as well, and you're putting it in a spot that is less than optimal, only decreasing it's efficiency even more. I really don't understand what the point of doing it this way is, other than if you're one of the people who just likes to be unique... Also, when you can get a brand new IC off of ebay for 150 shipped or less, I don't understand why you're so adament on using the perforated chunk of metal that you think is the be all end all of intercoolers.
                                1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z

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