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Greddy Type RS BOV Boooooo!

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  • Greddy Type RS BOV Boooooo!

    Well, I just finished pressure checking the new intercooler pipes I just welded up.
    I had to go back over a couple of spots and I keep noticing just how limited these expensive things are.
    *I can't get the BOV actuator to seal for more than 14psi. After this amount it seeps pressure and to get it to hold the 35psi I test my stuff to, I have to keep the air hose held to the pressure nipple for my pressure checker. It is a slow leak that bleeds till it drops to that 14psi.
    I wonder if this is a big deal..
    :lol:
    I didn't have these problems with the HKS SSQV.....or even the RFL BOV.
    Apexi...well, I don't care for those.
    :cry:
    I am here to help...

  • #2
    maybe the more expensive type R will hold more pressure??

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    • #3
      It amazes me sometimes how some of the brand name BOVs dont have adjustable springs in em. Even some of the cheaper knock off BOVs on ebay do...
      http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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      • #4
        wait a second? you are running just 14 psi on the I/C pipe side and nothing on the top side of the BOV? NA, nevermind, I know you know what you are doing.

        The HKS BOV's are cool because the more pressure you run the more it seals! I have heard that they are slow reacting though. Meh I run the knock of tial 50mm. :roll:
        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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        • #5
          and nothing on the top side of the BOV?
          Yeah, that's why I said, "is this a big deal".
          ~I was hoping someone else would chime in that has this same BOV and /or has found it seals fine.
          I'm unsure if the positive pressure to the control nipple would have made
          a difference, possibly pushing the piston into the seal to keep the intercooler pipe sealed, rather than the spring pressure alone.
          *I have never had to deal with that with the others I listed.
          **And truly, it is late and I'm tired/lazy...wanting to just clean these and paint them, rather than cap everything all off again and re-presure check with doing what I am curious about.
          I am here to help...

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          • #6
            I've never tested a bov before but I would think that to test it correctly you would want to do it like it is on the car with pressure to both sides of the diaphram so that way the spring pressure alone will keep it closed. hell that one of the reasons its just a hose instead of a check valve or somthing.
            85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
            04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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            • #7
              if you have a wastegate for a bov would it open quickly enough to work as a bov?

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              • #8
                I have a true Greddy RS and it held well over 30 psi when pressure tested...I still may upgrade to the HKS anyhow.
                2008 BMW E92 335i 6MT

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                • #9
                  You need to put pressure to the top of the diaphragm. If you do, you'll find it stays shut.
                  It's RWD in reverse.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks, this is what was "assumed"(which is determined as good to go with your response)....
                    Everything else is 100%, holds 35psi. and is now installed in the engine bay.
                    *What fun stuff....
                    -Cut mandrel sections, clean up and grind pretty for welding, clean up and grind down weld, pressure check, touch up and re-grind, bead blast, pre-clean, hang and paint.
                    *Oh, I skipped the 30 times or so that things get temporarily installed in an effort to make/cut the next section....
                    ~Just over 14 hrs for the custom piping, Yay!
                    The result of the effort is always worth it though...just alot of time involved.
                    Thanks for the peace of mind!
                    8)
                    I am here to help...

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                    • #11
                      one day I will make a recirc valve for my turbo piping that uses a pneumatic ram, with one orifice in open air and the other behind the throttle....

                      so when you close the throttle the vacuum will open the recirc valve and maybe with a small return spring it will close at anything over a certain throttle where less vacuum can't overcome the spring

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                      • #12
                        Quote:
                        "one day I will make a recirc valve for my turbo piping that uses a pneumatic ram, with one orifice in open air and the other behind the throttle....
                        so when you close the throttle the vacuum will open the recirc valve and maybe with a small return spring it will close at anything over a certain throttle where less vacuum can't overcome the spring"

                        Sounds like one of these:
                        http://www.stratmosphere.com/hyperboost.htm

                        I tested a bunch of bypass valves and what really starts to matter is the mass and friction of the valve. The units with a diaphram (OEM) tended to work much better, and faster, than the piston units. Also, rather than having a port open to atm, you can put boost to it for better control. The GReddy/A'pex/Vortech units tend to have this feature.

                        FWIW I've always had good luck with Bosch OEM or DSM/Subaru valves (which happen to be the same guts as the Nissan units). They tend to open under vacuum which I think is a good thing, esp on cars with long intake tracks. It basically becomes an intercooler by-pass at cruise.
                        It's RWD in reverse.

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                        • #13
                          The last build I did utilized a Subaru Recirc, valve.
                          I have read in alot of places that they are good for 20-21 psi with out issues.
                          I am here to help...

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