NA2T Questions Regarding timing and boost >

[Dan-TSS]

You nailed it regarding the turbo coolant lines. It does help to stabilize the temps. the turbo can reach. It does also help keep the oil temp on the downside of too hot.
*You honestly haven't 1 single thing to worry about with na2t conversions on a stock T3...it is being made out to be scarier than it is. Just follow the key tips everyone has offered.
*In regards to the install./removal of the engine:
-The exhaust manifolds, turbo and o2 elbow, should all be installed before dropping the engine back in. How it comes out is how it goes back in.
~The downpipe will go back on after the engine is mounted up.(you'll see)
**Looks like you have it all thought out and covered.

[1SIKZ31]

Dan-TSS wrote: You nailed it regarding the turbo coolant lines. It does help to stabilize the temps. the turbo can reach. It does also help keep the oil temp on the downside of too hot.
*You honestly haven't 1 single thing to worry about with na2t conversions on a stock T3...it is being made out to be scarier than it is. Just follow the key tips everyone has offered.
*In regards to the install./removal of the engine:
-The exhaust manifolds, turbo and o2 elbow, should all be installed before dropping the engine back in. How it comes out is how it goes back in.
~The downpipe will go back on after the engine is mounted up.(you'll see)
**Looks like you have it all thought out and covered.

Awesome, 1 Decent problem Im having at the moment though right now is the fact that I for the life of me CANNOT get this stupid downpipe off of the elbow, I have tried a rubber mallet, a hammer, DAYS worth of WD-40, the flange has been unbolted of course and just hanging so only the old rusty and im guessing seized metal from the downpipe and/or elbow is holding the downpipe in, we have tried stepping on it, pulling away (2 people pulling hard as possible to pull haha) and everything in between, how is this issue covered?

How about the detonation and me running open downpipe regarding me listening, or feeling it, its not going to be possible to hear detonation since im running her open, any advice?
thanks dan!

[Dan-TSS]

Drop the detonation issue already....with stock boost out of T3 and all bases covered(stock 15 degree base timing and appropiate turbo ecu)...you will be just fine.
You won't have any issues.
Downpipe....
:lol: :lol: :lol:
*You are going to need to get it cherry hot with a torch, than cool it off quickly. There is a ring or donut shape that is rotted to the housing and locking it into place. It will come right out after you do this...getting it hot enough and then quickly cooling it is the trick.
8)

[1SIKZ31]

Dan-TSS wrote: Drop the detonation issue already....with stock boost out of T3 and all bases covered(stock 15 degree base timing and appropiate turbo ecu)...you will be just fine.
You won't have any issues.
Downpipe....
:lol: :lol: :lol:
*You are going to need to get it cherry hot with a torch, than cool it off quickly. There is a ring or donut shape that is rotted to the housing and locking it into place. It will come right out after you do this...getting it hot enough and then quickly cooling it is the trick.
8)

Awesome! I know im asking ALOT of questions but im just trying to figure it ALL out before I do the swap here REALLY soon.
Can I re-use the Feed line banjo bolt? (oil feel line banjo bolt)
The Turbine on the turbo charger has 3 broken studs and all of them need to come out anyway, I CANNOT do it, I dont have the correct tools, can I just take the turbo to a machine shop down the street and tell them "hey get these studs out for me" and they'll do it? Whats the ballpark price range for that?

thanks!
Im not asking them all at once because they wont get answered, but one at a time and all of my questions get answered... except it takes days lol. thats ok though.

[Firehawk]

[quote="1SIKZ31Awesome! I know im asking ALOT of questions but im just trying to figure it ALL out before I do the swap here REALLY soon.
Can I re-use the Feed line banjo bolt? (oil feel line banjo bolt)
The Turbine on the turbo charger has 3 broken studs and all of them need to come out anyway, I CANNOT do it, I dont have the correct tools, can I just take the turbo to a machine shop down the street and tell them hey get these studs out for me and they'll do it? Whats the ballpark price range for that?
Yes, just take it to a machine shop, it should be easy for them. Not sure on price, but it should be fairly inexpensive.

[verbatim]

You can use the feed bolt but make sure you get new copper gaskets.

Alot of your questions will make sense to you when you start the project. I know how it is to ponder, as I did this for months before I did my conversion. Alot of the questions answered themselves. The important things are:

-Torque things to spec.
-Make sure your injectors, ECU, and O2 sensor are compatible.
-Make sure your turbo is in working order
-Make sure your clutch is up to par before putting it all back together
-Be prepared to spend in excess of an extra $3-500 on parts and or tools

As others have said, it really isnt to bad. As long as you take your time.
And be ULTRA careful removing your drivers side manifold. I mean it. Go as slow and careful as possible. You do not want to break off any bolts, or be prepared for another hour or two delay. (if you can extract yourself).

[1SIKZ31]

verbatim wrote: You can use the feed bolt but make sure you get new copper gaskets.

Alot of your questions will make sense to you when you start the project. I know how it is to ponder, as I did this for months before I did my conversion. Alot of the questions answered themselves. The important things are:

-Torque things to spec.
-Make sure your injectors, ECU, and O2 sensor are compatible.
-Make sure your turbo is in working order
-Make sure your clutch is up to par before putting it all back together
-Be prepared to spend in excess of an extra $3-500 on parts and or tools

As others have said, it really isnt to bad. As long as you take your time.
And be ULTRA careful removing your drivers side manifold. I mean it. Go as slow and careful as possible. You do not want to break off any bolts, or be prepared for another hour or two delay. (if you can extract yourself).

ok good and awesome, I still have questions to get answered, as im REALLY close to doing this conversion (starting in less than 3 weeks)

2 questions come to mind.
I have a exedy Clutch, I have NO idea what the specs are but it was installed last year, I didnt break it in (BAD mistake) and also my tranny seal (Tranny input shaft seal) is leaking fluid past the shaft and the disc is soaked(with tranny fluid). I have HEARD of this clutch holding 300ft/lbs, but I have NO idea what it can hold. I want to get away with just buying only a OEM nissan clutch disc and replacing the exedy disc, using the exedy pressure plate, cleaning it up and replacing the seal, but dont want ANY chances of a slipping clutch.

Basically can I get by, by buying an OEM nissan clutch disc and using the Exedy pressure plate or will it be wiser to buy another clutch altogether?

Also.
I know when I buy an engine hoist it will have 2 lift points with hooks, and on the VG30E they'res a hook up point above the PS belt, and I heard of a hook up behind the head on the drivers side head? Is this true?
Where is the rear hook up point?
thanks!
Is it worth spending the $30.00 extra for an engine leveler?
thanks!

[craZed]

1SIKZ31 wrote: [Basically can I get by, by buying an OEM nissan clutch disc and using the Exedy pressure plate or will it be wiser to buy another clutch altogether?

Yes, but if you plan on beating on it, it would be wise to upgrade.



Yes there should be a loop on the ds head.

And if you have someone with some sence help guide the motor and tran out you should be fine without a leveler.

[Jason84NA2T]

1SIKZ31 wrote: Is it worth spending the $30.00 extra for an engine leveler?
thanks!

YES!

You need to rotate the engine/trans about 45-50 degrees to remove it easily without bumping the crank pulley. The only easy way to do this is either having someone push down on the trans as you pull, using a rope wrapped around under the car, or using a load leveler. I prefer the later, because I usually work alone.

They are like $27 at HF

[1SIKZ31]

[quote]Jason84NA2T wrote:

Is it worth spending the $30.00 extra for an engine leveler?
thanks!
YES!

You need to rotate the engine/trans about 45-50 degrees to remove it easily without bumping the crank pulley. The only easy way to do this is either having someone push down on the trans as you pull, using a rope wrapped around under the car, or using a load leveler. I prefer the later, because I usually work alone.

They are like $27 at HF

awesome, I will make sure I will pick it up then.
About the clutch, what do you guys recomend?
New OEM Disc with Exedy Pressure Plate, Would I need to replace my throwout bearing and thrust bearing? They are both 1 year old only.

Now from the top of my head the ONLY thing that I do not know to replace is the clutch, which im pretty sure is just bolts, and also I have no idea how to replace my Tranmission input shaft seal or whatever u call it?

Whats THE PROPER way to break in the clutch?
Of course dont slip it to much, and I know you CAN drive it hard without it slipping it (like in between gears), but isnt it 500 miles or regular driving (no long slips)?

Clutch decision:
A: OEM Disc w/ Exedy PP --> around less than $100.
B: The Spec Shop $225 Clutch kit, I forgot the name but its rated at 390ft/lbs.

If possible can you guys try to answer all the questions in this post because I dont want to irritate you guys by asking again.
Thanks everyone and thanks Dan for all the support!!

[Jason84NA2T]

The proper way for most clutches to be broken in is to just drive normal with no long slippage or WOT for ~500 miles.

I would buy the DXD unit from Dan. That is a good price on a very nice clutch you won't have to worry about again. I may be a little partial because the DXD stage 5 clutch I have was an absolute godsend for a higher-hp daily driven and modified car like mine.

[1SIKZ31]

Jason84NA2T wrote: The proper way for most clutches to be broken in is to just drive normal with no long slippage or WOT for ~500 miles.

I would buy the DXD unit from Dan. That is a good price on a very nice clutch you won't have to worry about again. I may be a little partial because the DXD stage 5 clutch I have was an absolute godsend for a higher-hp daily driven and modified car like mine.

and how about installation of the clutch?

and the removal of the tranny input shaft seal?

[Firehawk]

1SIKZ31 wrote: About the clutch, what do you guys recomend?
New OEM Disc with Exedy Pressure Plate, Would I need to replace my throwout bearing and thrust bearing? They are both 1 year old only.


Clutch decision:
A: OEM Disc w/ Exedy PP --> around less than $100.
B: The Spec Shop $225 Clutch kit, I forgot the name but its rated at 390ft/lbs.

If possible can you guys try to answer all the questions in this post because I dont want to irritate you guys by asking again.
Thanks everyone and thanks Dan for all the support!!

You should be fine with just a disc. If you are using a stock t3, then the nissan disc will be fine. I beat on mine, and when I swapped trannies last week, the disc looked great, and it has alot of miles on it.

[1SIKZ31]

Will the OEM nissan disc on a Exedy PP be enough to take a BEATING though?
I dont want ANY slippage, including at 12lb's of boost.
But I could get this swap done and finished ALOT faster (2 WEEKS faster) by buying an oem disc since its so cheap.

[Firehawk]

1SIKZ31 wrote: Will the OEM nissan disc on a Exedy PP be enough to take a BEATING though?
I dont want ANY slippage, including at 12lb's of boost.
But I could get this swap done and finished ALOT faster (2 WEEKS faster) by buying an oem disc since its so cheap.

12psi with stock t3, intercooled: beat away. No problems on any of my cars with stock clutch.