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Rear caliper piston seized

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  • Rear caliper piston seized

    I was changing my pads today in my 88T, and the left-hand rear caliper piston was seized up when trying to compress it with the clamp and it wouldn't budge. I kept on closing up the clamp and it finally went in but it leaked brake fluid out of the piston when it began moving again. Im guessing it's completely screwed, it's only the one side that did it and the front and right hand rear were fine and didn't do it when compressing the pistons. The rear left-hand side probably hasn't even been working this whole time.

    Another thing I did see however was very noticable uneven pad wear on the other rear side. I wanted to get away without remachining the rotors but I'll probably have to now as they're still a bit grainy in a rythmic motion. It sounds like worn pads, like the brake wear indicator, but replacing the pads didn't fix it and infact made it worse.

    Any ideas on both issues? Thanks!
    http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

  • #2
    It is fixed around a helix rod. It rotates as it moves in and out. Channellocks work great, just stay off of the rubber.
    KILL HADJI

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    • #3
      I heard many years ago that you shouldn't only change calipers on just one side. It kind of makes sense but...other than for reasons of uneven clamping force between the sides I cant say why it would hold true. Regardless, I have always replaced calipers in pairs...just because. :shock: If nothing else...if one is fubar then the other probably isn't far behind.

      The uneven rotor wear...ya you will probably have to resurface or replace. But what do you mean by "a bit grainy in a rythmic motion"? As in grooves on a record?
      Just stand back and throw money.
      Performance costs money.
      Reliable performance costs more.

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      • #4
        300zxt wrote: I was changing my pads today in my 88T, and the left-hand rear caliper piston was seized up when trying to compress it with the clamp and it wouldn't budge. I kept on closing up the clamp and it finally went in but it leaked brake fluid out of the piston when it began moving again. Im guessing it's completely screwed, it's only the one side that did it and the front and right hand rear were fine and didn't do it when compressing the pistons. The rear left-hand side probably hasn't even been working this whole time.

        Another thing I did see however was very noticable uneven pad wear on the other rear side. I wanted to get away without remachining the rotors but I'll probably have to now as they're still a bit grainy in a rythmic motion. It sounds like worn pads, like the brake wear indicator, but replacing the pads didn't fix it and infact made it worse.

        Any ideas on both issues? Thanks!
        you didn't know that you have to Turn in the back caliper pistons do you....

        And if you want they make a special took to turn those in too

        I wonder what that messes up in there when you force it in

        Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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        • #5
          z

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          • #6
            The uneven rotor wear...ya you will probably have to resurface or replace. But what do you mean by "a bit grainy in a rythmic motion"? As in grooves on a record?
            It sounds like when your pads are worn, that scuffing kind of sound as the wheel rotates each time it makes a full turn. I also noticed that the pads in the rear were the wrong kind, they had a slot in the middle of them. The ones I got which I triple checked were right for an 88 Turbo do not have this slot. I think the old pads in the rear were for an NA as the part numbers had the same first few digits but the last few were different...

            It's really hard to pinpoint which side is making the sound, but it does appear to be coming from the side which pissed out brake fluid when forcing the piston in.

            you didn't know that you have to Turn in the back caliper pistons do you....
            No I didn't! Doh! I've never done the rear brakes before as I haven't needed to until now only the fronts. Stupid me just assumed it would be the same. Would I have just killed the calipers by doing that? ops:

            In any case the damn noise is still there. The strange thing is that the right-hand rear went in easily by forcing it in. So I guess I didn't have a seized piston but a stupid move on my behalf by not double checking the manual for the procedure for the rears, I just winged it.
            http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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            • #7
              z

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              • #8
                300zxt
                I had a rear caliper that was doing that and if i barely applied the ebrake it would go away. I put new pads in and it did the same thing :? . I ended up putting in my 86t rear caliper

                Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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                • #9
                  Yeah I've probably killed the seal on that side but doesn't explain the noise still occurring. I guess I can do one of two things or both... Get the rear rotors machined and replace the rear calipers with good 2nd hand ones, I'm scared to think how much they are new from Nissan. Im sure I can get some good second hand ones from somewhere and I think R31 Skyline calipers are the same so they'll be easy enough to find.

                  Bah, what a pain in the ass though... I suppose it was too much to ask to simply replace the pads and have it be ok!
                  Attached Files
                  http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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                  • #10
                    z

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                    • #11
                      Yeah I know it's lazy, but they looked good and I was hoping to get away with just replacing the pads. They dont squeak as such, it's just a scuffing sound like worn out pads make and it appears to be only coming from the left-hand rear. I suppose I have to get them done now, might aswell repalce the rear caliper seals just to be safe too... Losing brakes would be um, bad! lol
                      http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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                      • #12
                        That rythmic sound is most likely a warped rotor. Not much you can do other than resurface or replace it if resurfacing will make it too thin.
                        Just stand back and throw money.
                        Performance costs money.
                        Reliable performance costs more.

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                        • #13
                          Yeah, what a bummer... I guess it serves me right for trying to half ass it! ops:

                          I should replace the rear seals aswell I think just to be safe since I forced the piston in, I just hope the calipers themselves are ok. I dont really know how to tell if they are or not.
                          http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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                          • #14
                            Yeah now tell'em what you paid!
                            85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
                            04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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                            • #15
                              Haha, well Nissan quoted me $227 for front brake pads. I got a set of Bendix pads for $104 for the front, and $87 for the rear. In Australian dollars but still a helluva lot so SATAN tells me. They're kickass pads though, but still...
                              http://youtube.com/c/zcartube

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