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  • Who has done the rear camber mod?

    Ok, I know Jason has done it and so have I ...


    But you know what? I just discovered that the sleeves for the inner and outer
    journals are a different size.

    The inners are; OD = 0.939" (23.87mm), ID = 0.557" (14.17mm)
    The outers are; OD = 0.900" (22.87mm), ID = 0.527" (13.66mm)
    Lengths are about the same.

    The outers (where the mod occurs) don't fit the ploy bushings.

    How did those that where successful in completing this mod deal with this problem?

    I will probably have my local machine shop make 2 copies of the inner
    sleeves but maybe there is another solution.

    Yeah, the one tool I don't have is a machinist's lathe.

  • #2
    I had a parts car so I used the eccentric bolts and sleeves from it. MSA poly kit came with spare bushings for the inner bolt so I used them as well. Tabs for the eccentric bolt were made out of an old gunrack and welded on, lol.

    no pics. sorry.

    I wrap my paper weights in glitter.

    Comment


    • #3
      I could be missing (or forgetting) something here but I would think that when doing this mod along with the MSA bushing install you would reuse the stock bushing and not use the bushing that is included in the kit.

      Scratches head...at least I think I remember new bushings coming with the kit... :?

      btw- deleted the duplicate post. :wink:
      Just stand back and throw money.
      Performance costs money.
      Reliable performance costs more.

      Comment


      • #4
        inner and outers are different bushings. For whatever reason the MSA kit I got had two sets of inner bushings. The cylinder they slip into on the control arm appears to be the same size on both sides. Problem solved in my case.

        I wrap my paper weights in glitter.

        Comment


        • #5
          I pulled the bolts from the junk yard for mine.
          But then discovered they didnt fit my outer sleaves.
          I just used a bench grinder and slimed the inner bolt to fit
          the outer sleave.
          imagination is a virtue

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, the kit I got (from prothane.com) had different sized bushings for the inner and outter bolt assemblies (although, they didn't spell it out on the package, I found out that either 4 or 6 of the bushings they gave me were about 1 or 2mm smaller than the rest and it made one of the bushings split when I tried to press it in). As for fixing the rear camber... I swapped out my lowering springs for TSS springs :lol: .
            89' 300zx turbo AKA Smokin' Woody:

            MGP Plenum, E-Fan, EBC (9.5 PSI), CM Downpipe, MSA turbo back exhaust, Poly Bushing Kit, TSS springs, Illuminas all around, 9" K&N Filter, Mustang Cobra rims with Falken 615's, Devil's Own Water/Methanol Injection kit, TurboXS-H BOV, Hurst Pistol Grip shifter.

            Awaiting install; A/F ratio gauge, Lo-Tek 3 gauge Pod, Walbro 255lph, T3

            Comment


            • #7
              1artworkz wrote:

              How did those that where successful in completing this mod deal with this problem?

              I will probably have my local machine shop make 2 copies of the inner
              sleeves but maybe there is another solution.
              The eaisest and probably the cheapest is to buy a set of toe bushings and burn the rubber off and save the sleeve.
              I had the outter sleeves drilled reamed out and knurreled on the ends to use them, but it cost as much as getting the bushings. I just checked and I have one sleeve if you want it, I couldn't save the second one.
              ...and how much HP do you have at 0 boost

              Comment


              • #8
                1artworkz wrote: Ok, I know Jason has done it and so have I ...


                But you know what? I just discovered that the sleeves for the inner and outer
                journals are a different size.

                The inners are; OD = 0.939" (23.87mm), ID = 0.557" (14.17mm)
                The outers are; OD = 0.900" (22.87mm), ID = 0.527" (13.66mm)
                Lengths are about the same.

                The outers (where the mod occurs) don't fit the ploy bushings.

                How did those that where successful in completing this mod deal with this problem?

                I will probably have my local machine shop make 2 copies of the inner
                sleeves but maybe there is another solution.

                Yeah, the one tool I don't have is a machinist's lathe.
                i bought a second set of poly bushings (apparently the newer sets already have spares?) and 2 stock inner bushings as well as all new nissan hardware.. i then burned out the brand new stock bushings and used the second set of poly bushings to make 4 complete inner control arm mounting point assemblies.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Russ84na wrote: The easiest and probably the cheapest is to buy a set of toe bushings and burn the rubber off and save the sleeve .... snip .
                  OK, so there are 2 ways to do this. The offset inner pins that will be
                  used for the outer mod have a shaft diameter of 0.547" (35/64").
                  The Prothane kit does come with 12 half bushings to slide over the sleeve.
                  There are 8 that match the inner sleeve and 4 that match the outer sleeve
                  diameters (I was wondering why there were 4 more than I needed. Dummy
                  me ... didn't check fit them all ... smart Prothane).

                  So the choice is to drill out the stock outer sleeves with a 35/64" drill
                  (cost $12.00 - $21.00) or buy new OEM rubber bushings and burn out
                  the sleeves.

                  Now, I guess I can drill out the outers with out scuffing them up but I
                  won't have the knurled ends like are on the inner sleeves. I assume they
                  are there to prevent the sleeves from rotating. I'm not sure why that is
                  important, maybe some one here has the answer.

                  I choose door Number Two. More money ... yes but then I know that the burned out sleeves will fit.

                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    [quote]1artworkz wrote:
                    Originally posted by Russ84na
                    The easiest and probably the cheapest is to buy a set of toe bushings and burn the rubber off and save the sleeve .... snip .
                    OK, so there are 2 ways to do this. The offset inner pins that will be
                    used for the outer mod have a shaft diameter of 0.547" (35/64").
                    The Prothane kit does come with 12 half bushings to slide over the sleeve.
                    There are 8 that match the inner sleeve and 4 that match the outer sleeve
                    diameters (I was wondering why there were 4 more than I needed. Dummy
                    me ... didn't check fit them all ... smart Prothane).
                    That's how you have to do it. Prothane includes a second set of inner bushings in the rear control arm bushing kits because we (myself, and a couple opther guys) discovered some of the later cars have outer sleeves with the same OD as the inner sleeves. Prothane corrected their kit and shipped up another set of their bushings after we informed them of this. Now the ID is still smaller on the outer bushing inner sleeve.

                    To clarify: to make them adjustable using the stock inner eccentric bolts you will either need to modify your outer bushing inner sleeves, or find another set of inner bushings to take the sleeves from.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I bought a second set of 85 N/A control arms and burned/drilled out the inner sleeves.


                      I should have just burned them out and skipped the drill.
                      Reason:


                      I couldn't drill straight to save my life.
                      Luckily all the Inner ones came out unscathed.
                      :roll:

                      yeah, that day sucked and reaked.


                      84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I tried the drill thing as well. That lasted about 10 minutes and I torched them out with MAP gas. Very efficient and much more enjoyable. :twisted:
                        Just stand back and throw money.
                        Performance costs money.
                        Reliable performance costs more.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          [quote]1artworkz wrote:
                          Originally posted by Russ84na
                          The easiest and probably the cheapest is to buy a set of toe bushings and burn the rubber off and save the sleeve .... snip .
                          OK, so there are 2 ways to do this. The offset inner pins that will be
                          used for the outer mod have a shaft diameter of 0.547" (35/64").
                          The Prothane kit does come with 12 half bushings to slide over the sleeve.
                          There are 8 that match the inner sleeve and 4 that match the outer sleeve
                          diameters (I was wondering why there were 4 more than I needed. Dummy
                          me ... didn't check fit them all ... smart Prothane).

                          So the choice is to drill out the stock outer sleeves with a 35/64" drill
                          (cost $12.00 - $21.00) or buy new OEM rubber bushings and burn out
                          the sleeves.

                          Now, I guess I can drill out the outers with out scuffing them up but I
                          won't have the knurled ends like are on the inner sleeves. I assume they
                          are there to prevent the sleeves from rotating. I'm not sure why that is
                          important, maybe some one here has the answer.
                          the knurled ends are important because the crossmember brackets are clamped tightly against the bushings inner sleeve.. this is not important on the stock outer sleeves because the location is fixed because the holes are round. the adjustable bushing setup is not fixed and it has to be clamped in place. if you dont have knurled ends then the bolt and bushing may slide in the slot under pressure.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Using eMachineShop http://www.emachineshop.com/, I got a price of $18.73
                            If I ordered 20 sleeves and this was without the knurled ends.

                            Ha, so Russ was right. Buy the OEM bushing and burn them out.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              1artworkz wrote: Using eMachineShop http://www.emachineshop.com/, I got a price of $18.73
                              If I ordered 20 sleeves and this was without the knurled ends.

                              Ha, so Russ was right. Buy the OEM bushing and burn them out.
                              19$ each?

                              Comment

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