So I've been replacing the rear suspension on my red 86T, and with 10" wide wheels and a really bad camber of around -3 degrees, I decided to do something to save my tires. I got a 1.5 deg fixed camber template, but found little information online and here on exactly what it looks like being done (but quite a bit of questions). So I'll this is where I'll show what I did, ask for any thoughts or questions, and ask what others have done on their own cars. Since I currently have 5 z31s, and they all need this and maybe more.
So the template kit comes with or requires a modified metal plate and a bolt. The idea is to drill completely new holes for the control arms in the crossmember. To decrease negative camber with the kit you only lower the outer control arm mounts on either side of the crossmember. To do this you basically put the bolt through the holes in the existing outer control arm mount and then use the small hole in the plate as a pilot hole to drill a new set of holes directly beneath.
The holes I drilled using increasing sized bits.
Following Matt89's suggestion, I did use the template on the inner holes for the pilot hole, but I intentionally drilled the inner hole a little higher that the outer hole. This is because the inside control arm mount isnt being moved down as well, and so it needs to be at a little bit of an upward angle for both to mount on the crossmember. I just eyed it up pretty well with the Inner control arm holes on the crossmember as I drilled, and it worked pretty well. I agree with Matt89 when he says that the the right way to do it would be to use the template to drill the outer hole. Then bolt your control arm to the inner shackle(where alignment is done) and move the outer one down and line it up with your new hole. Then use your new hole and the bushing in the shackle to guide your drill bit when drilling the inner hole.
Either way I tried to make my inner hole just a little bit higher as I drilled it out to have some slant towards the inner mount.
Then I grinded off a washer to fit in the inner side of the holes because the metal is uneven there for strength. I wanted a washer there to help give a little bit of aid since now the mount is clearly weaker with 4 holes.
Bolted together:
On my car I kept the stock bushings 1. they weren't that bad 2. Matt89 recommended for stock ones with the fixed mod because it will have a little more give than the poly. And maybe I didn't want to do all the work of burning them out...
What it looks like on the car:
I don't have any good pics yet of it, but The camber is noticeably better. I'd say the 1.5deg is about right. But the suspension still needs to settle as I put all poly on and type 1 Z3Rs. Has anyone done the camber mod with the template differently?
So the template kit comes with or requires a modified metal plate and a bolt. The idea is to drill completely new holes for the control arms in the crossmember. To decrease negative camber with the kit you only lower the outer control arm mounts on either side of the crossmember. To do this you basically put the bolt through the holes in the existing outer control arm mount and then use the small hole in the plate as a pilot hole to drill a new set of holes directly beneath.
The holes I drilled using increasing sized bits.
Following Matt89's suggestion, I did use the template on the inner holes for the pilot hole, but I intentionally drilled the inner hole a little higher that the outer hole. This is because the inside control arm mount isnt being moved down as well, and so it needs to be at a little bit of an upward angle for both to mount on the crossmember. I just eyed it up pretty well with the Inner control arm holes on the crossmember as I drilled, and it worked pretty well. I agree with Matt89 when he says that the the right way to do it would be to use the template to drill the outer hole. Then bolt your control arm to the inner shackle(where alignment is done) and move the outer one down and line it up with your new hole. Then use your new hole and the bushing in the shackle to guide your drill bit when drilling the inner hole.
Either way I tried to make my inner hole just a little bit higher as I drilled it out to have some slant towards the inner mount.
Then I grinded off a washer to fit in the inner side of the holes because the metal is uneven there for strength. I wanted a washer there to help give a little bit of aid since now the mount is clearly weaker with 4 holes.
Bolted together:
On my car I kept the stock bushings 1. they weren't that bad 2. Matt89 recommended for stock ones with the fixed mod because it will have a little more give than the poly. And maybe I didn't want to do all the work of burning them out...
What it looks like on the car:
I don't have any good pics yet of it, but The camber is noticeably better. I'd say the 1.5deg is about right. But the suspension still needs to settle as I put all poly on and type 1 Z3Rs. Has anyone done the camber mod with the template differently?
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