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Fixed Rear Camber Template modifcation

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  • Fixed Rear Camber Template modifcation

    So I've been replacing the rear suspension on my red 86T, and with 10" wide wheels and a really bad camber of around -3 degrees, I decided to do something to save my tires. I got a 1.5 deg fixed camber template, but found little information online and here on exactly what it looks like being done (but quite a bit of questions). So I'll this is where I'll show what I did, ask for any thoughts or questions, and ask what others have done on their own cars. Since I currently have 5 z31s, and they all need this and maybe more.

    So the template kit comes with or requires a modified metal plate and a bolt. The idea is to drill completely new holes for the control arms in the crossmember. To decrease negative camber with the kit you only lower the outer control arm mounts on either side of the crossmember. To do this you basically put the bolt through the holes in the existing outer control arm mount and then use the small hole in the plate as a pilot hole to drill a new set of holes directly beneath.



    The holes I drilled using increasing sized bits.



    Following Matt89's suggestion, I did use the template on the inner holes for the pilot hole, but I intentionally drilled the inner hole a little higher that the outer hole. This is because the inside control arm mount isnt being moved down as well, and so it needs to be at a little bit of an upward angle for both to mount on the crossmember. I just eyed it up pretty well with the Inner control arm holes on the crossmember as I drilled, and it worked pretty well. I agree with Matt89 when he says that the the right way to do it would be to use the template to drill the outer hole. Then bolt your control arm to the inner shackle(where alignment is done) and move the outer one down and line it up with your new hole. Then use your new hole and the bushing in the shackle to guide your drill bit when drilling the inner hole.

    Either way I tried to make my inner hole just a little bit higher as I drilled it out to have some slant towards the inner mount.


    Then I grinded off a washer to fit in the inner side of the holes because the metal is uneven there for strength. I wanted a washer there to help give a little bit of aid since now the mount is clearly weaker with 4 holes.


    Bolted together:



    On my car I kept the stock bushings 1. they weren't that bad 2. Matt89 recommended for stock ones with the fixed mod because it will have a little more give than the poly. And maybe I didn't want to do all the work of burning them out...


    What it looks like on the car:


    I don't have any good pics yet of it, but The camber is noticeably better. I'd say the 1.5deg is about right. But the suspension still needs to settle as I put all poly on and type 1 Z3Rs. Has anyone done the camber mod with the template differently?
    All of my Zs. If your in Va, join the VaZ31club

  • #2
    I think you did what the kit was intended for. WHen I did mine I was around 3.5 degres negitive camber. Doing the kit (1 inch drop from te top hole with adjustability) only got me around -.75 degrees adjustment. So I was still around a -2.5 degree camber. I had to drop it MUCH lower to get my -1 degree. Hopefully you will get good results. You should with those type 1 z3r's.

    But get that to the alignment shop and see what you are at. Id put a lock washer on one side of the bolt. But is it me or is that bolt to short? The nut looks like it barley has enough threads to hold securly.
    My Build Thread

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    • #3
      ah yeah I'm thinking the alignment should be alright but I'll prob have it all done after I replace the front suspension soon.

      And that you see was just a mock up on the bench, the bolt wasn't all the way through the holes. They were definitely long enough.
      All of my Zs. If your in Va, join the VaZ31club

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      • #4
        I went a little more extreme with the fix and added some adjusters. More so because I wanted to correct in the 3~4 degree range but at the same time allowing for adjustment in case of binding.

        Cut

        Clean

        Weld

        Blast

        Paint

        Be a boss


        I dropped the adjuster down so lowest setting it was 1.125" center to center from the original hole. This allowed me to correct back to ~ -2 degrees at where my car sits now, however the toe got ridiculous at 0.50" total toe in. 2k12 will bring a lot a new for me in terms of how I am correcting my toe, and new ride height. Stay tuned at my adjustable rear control arm thread and build thread a like.
        86na - BlueZ
        Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
        85t - Mr Tickles

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        • #5
          That looks like a great way to go. If I had the ability and time I would've tried the adjustable camber mod. I'm an electrical engineer, not a fabricator. But Ill def look for how you made yours all together. I might go that route when I redo the suspension on my 88T, or maybe one of my other cars :-)
          All of my Zs. If your in Va, join the VaZ31club

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          • #6
            I did basically what adamvann3 did BUT, I took a Rx7 rear subframe, cut the adjuster brackets off and welded them onto the Z subframe, used the rx7 adjusters with 300zx bolts. This way there is alot of "meat" around the section that hangs over the subframe.
            89' Turbo-R.I.P. (scrapped)
            87' NA all parts swapped from 89', Stance, 3.3 long block, hx35w, Injector Dynamics 1000cc, isky cams, pathfinder intake, front mount, megasquirt v3.57 w/MS3X
            07 Frontier XE <----(turd) daily

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            • #7
              adamvann3 wrote: I went a little more extreme with the fix and added some adjusters. More so because I wanted to correct in the 3~4 degree range but at the same time allowing for adjustment in case of binding.

              Cut

              Clean

              Weld

              Blast

              Paint

              Be a boss


              I dropped the adjuster down so lowest setting it was 1.125" center to center from the original hole. This allowed me to correct back to ~ -2 degrees at where my car sits now, however the toe got ridiculous at 0.50" total toe in. 2k12 will bring a lot a new for me in terms of how I am correcting my toe, and new ride height. Stay tuned at my adjustable rear control arm thread and build thread a like.
              How are you gonna fix the toe problem? Slide the adjusters rearward? When you drill the hole to adjust the camber you need to also drill them a little rearward to account for toe in. Ask me how I know. :-?
              Shiro #443

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              • #8
                adjustable length rod end on the outbound pivot point would be the business.

                1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
                1990 jetta vr6'd

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                • #9
                  Rick88ss wrote:
                  How are you gonna fix the toe problem? Slide the adjusters rearward? When you drill the hole to adjust the camber you need to also drill them a little rearward to account for toe in. Ask me how I know. :-?
                  Sweep angle/adjustable rear control arm thread

                  viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30861
                  86na - BlueZ
                  Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
                  85t - Mr Tickles

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                  • #10
                    Anyone ever thought about raising the inner slots for toe up some? This would also add more positive camber. You could also move the toe slot foward or rearward to get the toe back in specs.

                    The way I see it, if you did the 1.0* camber mod, and then raised the toe slot up a lil, then you could get the camber to -1.0* or so, and keep the toe in specs.


                    Or is this not possible?

                    1986 300ZX Turbo...sold
                    1990 Skyline GT-R...new money pit
                    2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed...daily

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