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Z31 to S14 front suspension --- discussion thread

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  • Z31 to S14 front suspension --- discussion thread


  • #2
    hells yeah! very nice. you make it seem so simple! and tantalizing.. :shock:

    deff worth a permanent location on the forum
    Attached Files


    • #3
      Very Nice... What are you doing about rear coil-overs?
      Shiro Special # 981 Being assembled in my spare time Chromoly acquired!
      Originally posted by BoostedMamma
      Heads up makes teh panties drop. BUT I don't have a penis OR a fast car, so I guess my opinion doesn't count.


      • #4
        VERY VERY nicley done! I am Very impressed! Congratulations, that doesnt happen often!
        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.


        • #5
          Re: Z31 to S14 front suspension writeup

          zmech wrote: Who is ready for this shit. I took some time today and completed a write-up so all you peps out there can do this shit. Have fun reading and let me know what you think. It is plenty long with lots of pics.

          Oh man.. thank you! 8)

          I almost started to think i need to order custom frontend parts for that.

          "Front tension rod mounts from later Z31."
          That is the hard part. We don't have any in here and have try to buy them for last year in US forums.

          Anyidea can we use some other car parts..?

          How about that knuckle. Is 180SX versio same?
          Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
          Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland


          • #6


            • #7
              "...did not do it correctly, or did not want to spend the money..."

              Ummmm, yeah.

              People forget that I've done this before. It sure would have been nice if I could have simply bolted parts on instead of going through fabrication hell. There is a reason the Z knuckle is ahead of the steering axis and the S14 one is not. Your geometry is now wrong.


              • #8
                Butter wrote: Your geometry is now wrong.


                • #9
                  Getting the wheel centered in the wheel well was NOT my main problem. I had a variety of LCA's to choose from and eventually did get the result that Zmech got. However, the SAI of the S14 equipment requires a severe tilt inboard to work right. I had my camber maxed-out just to achieve 0 degrees with the wheel straight. Once I turned the wheel and saw the cross-camber, I immediately abandoned the idea and decided to put back what Nissan intended.

                  I want to see pics of the car on the ground, from the front with the wheel turned all the way. Then I will be baffled as to how I and several others could not get it to work right.


                  • #10


                    • #11
                      There are no ill feelings for you using my project as an example. The ill feelings stem from the possibility of misinformation that I and others have worked hard to make information. You haven't even lowered your car down yet. It would suck for a bunch of people to waste $400-500 on parts they can't use.

                      If this does in fact work, I will actually be very pleased, as it will solve a lot of problems for me.

                      Also, what wasn't right with the ball joint specifically? Did the joint not fit at all in the knuckle, or did it simply not have enough threads?


                      • #12
                        Attached Files


                        • #13
                          I believe the difference between the tie-rod balljoint tapers is 4 degrees versus 6 degrees for us....

                          however you could buy aftermarket super-duty s14 tie-rods....


                          • #14
                            S14 strut's geometry requires a long LCA (or more inboard mounting up top which is not availible.) in order to work right.

                            In this picture I am using an S13 LCA just so I can drive my car into the parking lot...

                            -The camber plate is maxed out.
                            -The camber is about +.5 degree here.
                            -The tie rods are held on by only 4 turns because they are not long enough
                            -The front wheel is sunk deeper than the Bismark while the rear is fine. Granted, I have S14 rear suspension, but even stock would require some rediculous reverse-staggared wheel sizes. (i.e. deep lip in front, no lip in back.), or huge spacers.

                            Then I jacked up the car and replaced the tension rod with a racheting strap to bring the hub into the correct position so I could measure the camber angles when the wheel is turned.

                            I referred to this earlier as "cross-camber", not the same as the cross camber displayed on an alignment printout. I don't know the term for it, so that is how I refer to it. It is important under any cornering situation. Since I am drifting this car, I payed close attention to this because I am at full lock 80% of the time. Caster and the kingpin inclination are directly responsible for these angles and I could not seem to get enough caster to compensate. With the wheel turned to the right, the LF tire would be grinding it's outer sidewall into the pavement in a turn. It's been a long time since I did it, so I don't remember what was happening to the RF tire, but it wasn't good.


                            • #15
                              also with your steering and caster whack you are lifting the inside suspension more and your swaybar will try to fix this screwing with your outside