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did a little chassis stiffening today

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  • did a little chassis stiffening today

    i needed to have a place to mount my harness to, and i wanted a strut tower bar, to add stiffness.

    heres what resulted.






  • #2
    and i finished up the passenger side for a future harness as well.

    heres a few pictures of that.





    Comment


    • #3
      i need to clean up that passenger side mount still. i was tired and didn't bother finishing the clean up.

      when i drove home i took some corners pretty hard. i couldn't believe the difference this made. i'm going to get a strut bar for the front next. they are pretty cheap, so i wont bother spending my time making one.

      next up-

      repairing the rocker panel and floor board on the passenger side. next week, maybe.

      Comment


      • #4
        kewl !!

        but i don't get what the one on the passenger floor is for :?:

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice work.

          The only thing I can really ding is that you wont be able to remove the rear shock tower covres. Unless there is something Im missing here.

          I can imagine that those cross tubes really did make a difference.
          Just stand back and throw money.
          Performance costs money.
          Reliable performance costs more.

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          • #6
            i can peel them back enough to get my wrachet wrench in there. and i'll cut an L in there if i have to to move them even further.

            the bar behind the seat is an anchor point for the lap belt for a harness.

            this is one of the best mods yet for stiffening the car up. i can't believe how much better it feels.

            Comment


            • #7
              At that point I say its safe to gut the interior and just weld the rest of the 12 point in

              I did the same thing in my nx that I autox, I just welded the two tower walls together b.c I need a belt mount......instant tower brace..it made a good size difference
              Who are you to tell me my uninformed opinion is wrong?!?!?

              Expert: He who has made all the mistakes there is to make in a given field.

              Comment


              • #8
                those are nice man but heres what you need to,make about 50 of these but instead drills holes into the mounting plates so we wont have to weld them on and start sellin them to us on here hahahha,those are nice and look like they do a good job id definately buy some from you
                87 2by2 na2turbo,AE shell comin soon

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                • #9
                  i don't want to gut it yet. its still a daily driver.

                  but when i get a cage and start racing it. then i'll gut it. but that will be a while. the wife and i are on the get rid of all our debt diet. so my car spending will go down for a little while.

                  this whole modification only cost me around $20.

                  not to bad really.

                  free welder
                  free stainless steel 2" (picked up at work in the salvage pile)
                  free plate from my father in laws steel pile at work
                  $5 for a 24" x24" piece of mild 14 gauge
                  $9 for a 3' piece of 1.25"x1.25"x .25 angle iron
                  and
                  $1.50 for one grade 8 bolt and lock washer for the seat belt. the other two i already had laying around. :lol:

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    sorry i will not sell a safety item that bolts in. it would not spread the load properly. i used plate on the ends and welding it to the chassis so it would spread a load evenly. 4 bolts won't spread the load like welding will.

                    not to mention a liability issue if you get killed because it didn't work right.

                    i do plan on building a roll cage. probably a 6 point cage. it will be weld in, but could be modified to bolt in. i have made bolt in cages before. as long as a backing plate is used, i don't mind making and selling those as a bolt in affair. although on a unibody i'm not sure yet how to make it bolt in and retain the stock seat belts.

                    i still need to save the money for a tube bender. i would build them out of 2"x.120" wall DOM tubing. everything will be tig welded.

                    87-85turbo wrote: those are nice man but heres what you need to,make about 50 of these but instead drills holes into the mounting plates so we wont have to weld them on and start sellin them to us on here hahahha,those are nice and look like they do a good job id definately buy some from you

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      84z31 wrote: i don't want to gut it yet. its still a daily driver.

                      but when i get a cage and start racing it. then i'll gut it. but that will be a while. the wife and i are on the get rid of all our debt diet. so my car spending will go down for a little while.

                      this whole modification only cost me around $20.

                      not to bad really.

                      free welder
                      free stainless steel 2" (picked up at work in the salvage pile)
                      free plate from my father in laws steel pile at work
                      $5 for a 24" x24" piece of mild 14 gauge
                      $9 for a 3' piece of 1.25"x1.25"x .25 angle iron
                      and
                      $1.50 for one grade 8 bolt and lock washer for the seat belt. the other two i already had laying around. :lol:
                      so the bars are made of stainless and the plates are mild steel welded to the unibody.. but the bars are welded to the plates? you welded stainless steel to mild steel? am missing something here?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Your welds on the bars look good for mig welding. I can tell you have a nice wave going. I cant say as much for the welding to the actual car though. I can only assume that is because of the difficulty in cleaning your base metal (the paint on the car). It sucks when you cant get to some stuff to clean it good enough cause the welds end up suffering.

                        Have you caught the undernieth of your car on fire yet from welding to the car??? I had to keep a spray bottle handy so I could put the flames out from welding in the 6"x6" plates when I was doing my cage. It stinks too cause all of the coating under the car catches on fire.

                        Also, before you go too far in welding in braces, always make sure your car is sitting nice and level. You dont want to weld in a brace while one side of your car is sitting on a rock or somthing and then have the whole thing be twisted because of that. Its good to use a level.
                        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
                        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          you can weld stainless to mild. get a book learn how to do it.

                          we weld it all the time in the oil field. next comment. :roll:

                          so yes you are missing something.

                          i'll tell you the secret, put more heat onto the SS then the mild. use SS welding wire, and CO2 works nicely and doesn't stain the SS.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            SATAN wrote: Your welds on the bars look good for mig welding. I can tell you have a nice wave going. I cant say as much for the welding to the actual car though. I can only assume that is because of the difficulty in cleaning your base metal (the paint on the car). It sucks when you cant get to some stuff to clean it good enough cause the welds end up suffering.
                            i used a wire wheel on my other grinder and then i took a torch and rag to wipe as much of that crap off. the passenger side went better. i spent much more time getting clean after what happened on the drivers side. i could not get all that crap off the floor boards. you can see where i spent a lot of time cleaning.

                            SATAN wrote: Have you caught the undernieth of your car on fire yet from welding to the car??? I had to keep a spray bottle handy so I could put the flames out from welding in the 6"x6" plates when I was doing my cage. It stinks too cause all of the coating under the car catches on fire.
                            the bottom caught on fire a lot. i just put it out with my glove. the fumes started to kill me though:lol:

                            SATAN wrote:
                            Also, before you go too far in welding in braces, always make sure your car is sitting nice and level. You dont want to weld in a brace while one side of your car is sitting on a rock or somthing and then have the whole thing be twisted because of that. Its good to use a level.
                            the car was level. i was trying to use a nice magnetic level. unfortunatly SS is pretty much not magnetic. but its all nice and level.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              84z31 wrote: you can weld stainless to mild. get a book learn how to do it.

                              we weld it all the time in the oil field. next comment. :roll:

                              so yes you are missing something.

                              i'll tell you the secret, put more heat onto the SS then the mild. use SS welding wire, and CO2 works nicely and doesn't stain the SS.
                              ive never heat of that before.. very interesting.. how strong is the weld? are there any downsides? please post or link some more info if you have it.

                              Comment

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