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Bilsteins on the way...any suprises on the install???

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  • Bilsteins on the way...any suprises on the install???

    Any tips, tricks, or additional parts I should pick up when installing Bilsteins on my SS? Thanks,

    Mike
    2008 BMW E92 335i 6MT

  • #2
    Pick-up some lower shock bolts (2) for the rear shocks where they connect to the a-arm. I have stripped/broken them on 3 Z31s. Saw-zall the old ones off.

    Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
    Elitist Prick Black Z owner.
    1986 300zx Turbo
    2011 Ford F150 Super Crew 4x2 EcoBOOST
    1985 Toyota 4Runner, locked, lifted, geared, uglied.

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    • #3
      any surprises? other than the surprised when you realize you should have gone with coilovers? haha :twisted:
      Attached Files
      1985 NA2T * 1988 SS * 1984 AE x2 * 2006 350Z -- irc.dal.net #300ZX
      21C2E59531C8710156D34A3C30AC81D5 || ...-- ----- ----- --.. -..-

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      • #4
        The gland nuts for the front "require" Bilsteins special tool to torque them. Basically it is round / smooth with two slots that the tool sits down into. I'm sure you could rig something, but the local shop I bought mine through had one I could borrow. Everyone says the tool is supposed to come with them, but several people have not received it.

        Good luck !

        Jason

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        • #5
          special tool...? like a big pair of channel locks? has worked for ~4 years now...

          Exercising my constitutional right to be awesome

          1.5.2. Podium winning cars do NOT need to be running at the checkered flag
          good thing....

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          • #6
            autoworkZ wrote: special tool...? like a big pair of channel locks? has worked for ~4 years now...
            Thus "require" in quotes, I have talked to several who have done without it. It was nice to be able to put a torque wrench on it though, and not to gouge / scar the nuts.

            Even with the tool you have to be careful, you can't let the tool get out of the plane of the nut or it will pop free. It is really just a piece of stamped metal with the two fingers for the slots in the nut.

            Jason

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            • #7
              the koni gland nut is the same except they are round holes, made myself a tool from 3/8 aluminum, notched to go around the strut and a square 1/2" hole for the wrench....

              I used two small bolts for the gripping, it was a bit loose so I held it steady while yanking

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              • #8
                Does there need to be any fluid added into the strut tube before sliding in the cartridge. I've read somewhere that tranny fluid is used in some applications.

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                • #9
                  Just like any other strut/shock for our cars. Very good shock that will last a long time. Also, Bilstein does do custom valving, which I think is worth doing for stiffer springs.
                  Chuck Stong
                  300+ Parts and Performance owner
                  http://www.300-plus.com
                  2002 ZCOT president and always active member

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                  • #10
                    Is that a "yes", add trans fluid to the strut tube prior to installing? About how much, enough that i just spills over the top when the tube is installed?

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                    • #11
                      z

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                      • #12
                        Neil86t wrote:
                        Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
                        this man speaks the truth

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                        • #13
                          vagabond wrote: Is that a "yes", add trans fluid to the strut tube prior to installing? About how much, enough that i just spills over the top when the tube is installed?
                          All I ever do is wipe the catridge when replacing a non-stock catridge, and nothing when it is stock. The stock setup has lots of oil in it; I just drain it out and install the new. The whole idea is for the oil to transfer heat, but too much oil will not let the catridge to sit all the way down.
                          Chuck Stong
                          300+ Parts and Performance owner
                          http://www.300-plus.com
                          2002 ZCOT president and always active member

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                          • #14
                            [quote]Idryfly5 wrote:
                            Originally posted by Neil86t
                            Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
                            this man speaks the truth
                            Funny, I've had my rear speakers out three times this week to mess with my tokicos and i've never been cut. I had some issues getting one of them tight since the whole shaft spins.

                            I don't know how to change the front ones, they were already in my donor-car when I swapped the whole crossmember and front suspension. I love the stiffer shocks.
                            My beloved Z:1987 2+2 NA2T w/30a swap.
                            My black sheep: 88ss parts car (pretty much stripped and gone)
                            207k miles and counting. Turbo'd since 155k.

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