Pick-up some lower shock bolts (2) for the rear shocks where they connect to the a-arm. I have stripped/broken them on 3 Z31s. Saw-zall the old ones off.
Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
Elitist Prick Black Z owner.
1986 300zx Turbo
2011 Ford F150 Super Crew 4x2 EcoBOOST
1985 Toyota 4Runner, locked, lifted, geared, uglied.
The gland nuts for the front "require" Bilsteins special tool to torque them. Basically it is round / smooth with two slots that the tool sits down into. I'm sure you could rig something, but the local shop I bought mine through had one I could borrow. Everyone says the tool is supposed to come with them, but several people have not received it.
autoworkZ wrote: special tool...? like a big pair of channel locks? has worked for ~4 years now...
Thus "require" in quotes, I have talked to several who have done without it. It was nice to be able to put a torque wrench on it though, and not to gouge / scar the nuts.
Even with the tool you have to be careful, you can't let the tool get out of the plane of the nut or it will pop free. It is really just a piece of stamped metal with the two fingers for the slots in the nut.
the koni gland nut is the same except they are round holes, made myself a tool from 3/8 aluminum, notched to go around the strut and a square 1/2" hole for the wrench....
I used two small bolts for the gripping, it was a bit loose so I held it steady while yanking
Does there need to be any fluid added into the strut tube before sliding in the cartridge. I've read somewhere that tranny fluid is used in some applications.
Just like any other strut/shock for our cars. Very good shock that will last a long time. Also, Bilstein does do custom valving, which I think is worth doing for stiffer springs.
Chuck Stong
300+ Parts and Performance owner http://www.300-plus.com
2002 ZCOT president and always active member
Is that a "yes", add trans fluid to the strut tube prior to installing? About how much, enough that i just spills over the top when the tube is installed?
Neil86t wrote:
Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
vagabond wrote: Is that a "yes", add trans fluid to the strut tube prior to installing? About how much, enough that i just spills over the top when the tube is installed?
All I ever do is wipe the catridge when replacing a non-stock catridge, and nothing when it is stock. The stock setup has lots of oil in it; I just drain it out and install the new. The whole idea is for the oil to transfer heat, but too much oil will not let the catridge to sit all the way down.
Chuck Stong
300+ Parts and Performance owner http://www.300-plus.com
2002 ZCOT president and always active member
Also make sure you put tape around the speaker holes in the rear. The outside of the holes are very sharp and will cut the crap out of you if you are not careful.
this man speaks the truth
Funny, I've had my rear speakers out three times this week to mess with my tokicos and i've never been cut. I had some issues getting one of them tight since the whole shaft spins.
I don't know how to change the front ones, they were already in my donor-car when I swapped the whole crossmember and front suspension. I love the stiffer shocks.
My beloved Z:1987 2+2 NA2T w/30a swap.
My black sheep: 88ss parts car (pretty much stripped and gone)
207k miles and counting. Turbo'd since 155k.
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